Chuck

Chapter five.....fun!!! This chapter begins with the cheeks/hair brackets at the bow so we can eventually drill those hawse holes. We need to do that before we can continue working inboard. Then we will shape the hole in the lower counter for the rudder installation. So I began by trying to prototype some cheeks and even the headrails. We wont need the head rails until much later but I might as well get the production and mfg methods developed. I have done so and now I will assemble the one side of the cheeks. Pictures are below. When I add them to the starboard side I will take more step by step photos. I just wanted to do the first go around entirely on the port side first. It all went pretty smooth. These pieces for the cheeks and hair brackets are composed of many separate laser cut elements. I havent added the wash cant yet or drilled the hawse holes. Many of these pieces are not even glued on yet. Its basically a test run. But here you can see the fruits of my labor. Many iterations of cheeks and head rails have been made over the last two weeks. All of these laser cut pieces have been made from boxwood. And of course more printed friezes for these thin details. I believe it will set this project apart from other very simplified kits on the market. Most look overly simplified and kit-like. I am satisfied that these do not look like a kit even though all of the pieces are laser cut. Oh and of course I had to paint the stem areas black as shown, although you could go with blue between the hair brackets.....behind the carving.

Its fine as is. But yes slow down and read it a few times before picking up the glue. That will work out just fine. Chuck

That is looking great Rich. Cant wait to see it in person. You are almost done!!! 😀

Really nice. Planking looks great.

Really nice. Once sanded it will really look terrific.

Its an exact replica......beautiful to see side by side. And straight out of the box....no bashing needed.

Nicely done Ryland.

Nicely done Rusty. It will be so nice to finally cover up those bulkheads.

That is looking really good Ron. All ply is different. The thicknesses vary quite a bit. Those slot widths were made for the ply that I am using. Thats why they may be just a hair off. But either way it looking really good. Chuck

Thats looking real good. A fine job. You are almost to the fun bits!!!!

It looks good. Its hard to say with your planking. The planking wont align with the top of the ports and thats ok. Check the run of where your molding will be to check that you plank runs are ok. Better yet copy the plan and place it against the hull to check your planking run and port placement.

I use a small toaster oven. Mostly because every time I want to cook some rope, somebody is using the oven. No smell unless you burn/melt it. What a running oozing mess. So dont over do it. Chuck

No resin this time around. So far so good. I am just laser cutting them out of boxwood. Should have some pics shortly. Chuck

Thats my plan!!!!

Thanks Greg. I have noticed that other MFGs are trying to replicate that already. But they are having a hard time. Their attempts are falling rather flat. My guess is they will do the same and try to copy this concept next. I have already made some great progress on the cheeks. The main headrail is next. If I can get over that hurdle then I will be home free. Chuck

Thank you guys. I will be working on the cheeks next so I can add the hawse holes. I have been contemplating a new concept for making these for quite some time. The one thing that is always disappointing me with even the latest and most innovative kits are the head rails. They just look awful. Even with these so-called Chinese kits that everyone is raving about. Once you get beyond the framing on those its basically the same old stuff. So I am spending lots of time trying to engineer something that will finally make these less difficult to make while not looking kit-like or awful. Hopefully have an update soon. If I stare at these photos enough I am sure I will come up with something!! 😉 Chuck

Finally finished chapter four in its entirety. The deck is finally planked. There shouldnt be much much planking for a while. Pretty straight forward from my last update. Just follow your lining out of the deck planks and take your time. Match the tapering and curve of each plank just like you did when planking the outboard hull. I will begin chapter chapter five by getting back to some outboard details. First the cheeks and hawse holes...then the rudder. Afterwards it will be back inboard to add the details to the bulwarks and the guns. Feel free to ask me any questions. Some photos...

Its just any scrap wood. Not included in the kit. Figured if you are building this you either have it or can cut the small lengths of scrap from the many sheets of scrap you will have after building the frames. Any thickness will work.

Well enjoy the project but remember this is a much more complex build than Phantom. Try and slow down alot. There are so many things to consider carefully that could have a serious negative effect if you rush through it because of impatience. Measure twice.....and then measure again.

That looks fantastic. Hope you are enjoying the model. You are doing really well with it. Beautiful work.

Really nice Ben...Crisp and clean and precise.

Its really not enough to just make tick marks. If you take the next step and use thin tape or thread along your tick marks, you can see if what you measured out is correct. Trust me as there will always be a ton of mistakes until you do this step which most omit for whatever reason. With your tape in place from bow to stern you can adjust them until it looks right when viewed from many angles. Then remark those tick marks along your tape which is probably now better positioned than your initial tick marks alone. This step should not be skipped and its probably one of the most important. Hope that helps. You wont get any dips in the the run of your planks this way. Its like a quick test before you cut a single planks from wood. Chuck

That sounds like a plan....that will work. Just mark the sides for 3/64" to be removed and use a file or sanding stick.

Really nice model. Well done. Looking forward to your Ontario. Chuck

Very Nice Job folks!!!