Chuck

Here you go....if you can find an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of self adhesive label paper I recommend using that.  It makes things a lot easier.  I know you only need one sheet but for future projects it worth the investment.  You can buy self adhesive paper that is micro thin on ebay.....25 sheets per pack.
 
 
longboatfreizes.pdf

Thanks Allan
 
Yes the traveler ring is not made from wire that is usually the case.  It is made from 1mm brass tube.  Its easier to use and looks better.  You cut the rings like you would if you were using wire.  Just wrap around a dowel and then cut with a saw.   Then a small length of 24 gauge wire is inserted into the tube to close it up...you can push it pretty far into the tube so no solder is even required.  But first you should slide your shackle and hook onto it and then close it up....those are also made from 24 gauge wire.

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 
 

 

Its really not a fair question.   It depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end result.  The old motto is true...."you get what you pay for".
 
You can spend 5 bucks for a chisel or you can spend $150 for a better one.   My guess is you will not be happy with the $5 chisel and will end up throwing it away.   You can spend $30 for a bandsaw blade or $225.   Etc. Etc....
 
You get what you pay for.  This hobby is certainly not going to allow you to build models like this one below for $200   - $300.  Its an expensive hobby once it grabs hold of you.  It just depends on what you will be satisfied with in the end.  Again its not really a fair question because some folks are willing to invest much money (if they can) and much time tobuild a model like this....but many are just as satisfied with a less ambitious result.  
 
If you are going to spend $1000 bucks on something that will take you maybe three years to complete I would say that is a very reasonable and inexpensive hobby.   How many people spend just $335 dollars a year on a hobby for decent results.   Especially if its something that will give you years of pleasure and enjoyment.   I know guys that drop 100's every month bowling on a league......for me its just not worth it.  I think that kind of money is better spent on ship modeling is.....so again....its not really a fair question.  It more about how much do you really want it.   You spend money on what you are passionate about and everyone is different.....I spent 200 dollars on a cheap saw once because I couldnt afford a good one.  It was a terrible decision.  Finally I saved enough to buy a Byrnes saw and it makes the hobby much more enjoyable.  And that saw will last me a lifetime while the cheaper one was good for nothing out of the box.
 

Nicely done Mike.....only a few more to go.  

Nicely done Mike.....only a few more to go.  

Please welcome and thank Wood Project Source for becoming a sponsor of Model Ship World.  WPS supplies milled wood sheets and strips along with carving blocks for many hobbies.  Their specialty is Alaskan Yellow Cedar Sheets and Carving Blocks.  Other species like Yellow Heart, Purple heart, Butternut, Applewood, Dogwood and Mahogany are soon to follow.

 

They also carry the staples for our hobby like Boxwood, Swiss Pear and others.  They are just finishing up their new website so please have some patience with them as they continue adding more wood species and products to their online store.  They have many more than I listed.

 

I have personally bought from them many times as they are close by and I gotten to know the owner.  I have bought some Yellow Cedar and Boxwood from them and will say that I am very happy with the quality of the wood.  They have fantastic prices and they are the lowest I have seen for some wood sheets.

 

Please join me in welcoming them as a sponsor of MSW.

 

Visit their site and check them out.  I am grateful they decided to become a sponsor and didnt hesitate after I asked them about it.

 

www.woodprojectsource.com

I just wanted to post a quick update that METRIC sizes are now available for Swiss Pear and Boxwood sheets.  The sheets are still 3" x 24"  long (7.5 x 60.5 cm) and you can select your metric thickness to configure your price.  I think you will be very pleased with our product and our prices.  We will be updating our other woods with metric sizes very soon.
 
1mm thick - $11
 
1.5mm thick -$11
 
2mm thick -$12
 
3mm thick -$13
 
4mm thick -$15
 
5mm thick -$17
 
6mm thick -$18
 
7mm thick -$19
 
Visit our online store at www.woodprojectsource.com
 
Thank you for your business and if you have any questions please email me at woodprojectsource@gmail.com
 
Roman

I am about to make the two yards for Cheerful and the center of each is eight sided.  So I am going to start with a square stick and then turn it into an Octagon.  I will round off the ends  and taper them afterwards.    I am using the 7/10/7 template to mark the stick so I can create the eight sided shape.  
 
When I was preparing my square stock I thought that everyone would probably benefit from the template I am using and created.   It will save you time so you dont have to make one.  Attached is a PDF template that is prepared with the correct ratios.   I have been using it all along to make the masts and other spars.  Its a very handy template to have.
 
seventenseven.pdf
 
Chuck

Nicely done Mike.....only a few more to go.  

As many of you are aware....we have had many group project forums in the past with a couple going on right now.   I just closed the Longboat group which had been going for several years.   It had soon run its course.  All closed groups will have their logs moved to the appropriate forum.  None will be lost.  Keep in mind all groups are not permanent.   They will wind down and close as  they lose steam and participation.   This will done to preserve valuable forum real estate and also keep the site fresh and exciting with new possibilities for the membership.  As the administrator I will pose the question in each group forum when it looks like interest and participation crawled to a stop.  It will be up to the membership if they want to keep it open...but that means its up to the membership to keep it active.
 
 
 
 
If closed....All pinned topics and non logs will be moved .  Nothing will be lost.
 
 
 
 
 
                             
 
 
 
 
 
To start a new project forum, it must meet this criteria.
 
 
 
 
 
- must have 6 - 8 current members actively building the project and willing to start a log in a separate group area.    Group will be open to any member wanting to participate.  No exclusions.
 
 
 
 
 
- subject can be suggested by any member as long as they meet the criteria.  Its time to rally your fellow members should you wish to start one.  If you are among many building one model now and there are more than 6 - 8 logs already started,  why not take the initiative to contact them to see if all of you want to start a group.  Just an idea.
 
 
 
 
 
- the forums must contain only Build logs following the same guidelines for naming them as the other build log forums.  
 
 
 
 
 
-all non-build log specific info related to the project that will help the group of builders, will be posted as a pinned topic above the build logs by a moderator.
 
-Every group project must have a named leader/mentor who will take charge of the group and agree to moderate it.  If you can not find one please contact us and we will try and find one for you.
 
 
 
 
 
 If you would like to suggest a topic for such a group build area...you may list it in this forum.....Try to rally your fellow members to start and participate in a new group.....or if there are already more than 6-8 "scratch" or "kit" forum build logs started and you can convince those builders to move their topics here.....we can do that as well.  But if that happens.....we will move all similar build logs here for convenience and consistency....even if you are NOT among the 6-8 who want to start such a separate group project forum.    But PLEASE...be as detailed as you can when suggesting a new group be started.
 
 
 
 
 
List the name and type of ship or item.....scratch or kit......POF or POB....solid hull....what will cost....time frame....where to get plans....kit...or supplies.   What would the goal and aim be if any for the project you are trying to start.
 
 
 
 
 
JUST ONE MORE SUGGESTION.....The project DOES NOT need to be for a complete ship or boat.  For example.  If members wanted to start a group about making a ship's stove or a capstan....that is fine too.  As long as there are 6-8 members who are actively doing so.  Trying new techniques and sharing them as well as working on the same exact thing.....if you want to start a group about using a lathe to turn cannon and it will active participants...that is great and worthwhile.
 
 
 
 
 
A group project such as this....its about learning together and exchanging ideas as a group on any one subject.   This structure is offered to make it easier and more convenient.  So think outside the box.  But we need 6-8 members to start one.   And the key word is ACTIVE PROJECT.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck
 
 
(MSW admin)
 

Nicely done Mike.....only a few more to go.  

Thanks Allan
 
Yes the traveler ring is not made from wire that is usually the case.  It is made from 1mm brass tube.  Its easier to use and looks better.  You cut the rings like you would if you were using wire.  Just wrap around a dowel and then cut with a saw.   Then a small length of 24 gauge wire is inserted into the tube to close it up...you can push it pretty far into the tube so no solder is even required.  But first you should slide your shackle and hook onto it and then close it up....those are also made from 24 gauge wire.

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 
 

 

Mike
 
You will have to show me when you drop by the shop.   Today I am preparing to start the running rigging.  The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging.  The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook.  A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company.    It is ready to use right out of the package.  It has a 3/8" inside diameter.  They can be finicky things to make.
 
Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!!   No worry though.   I will be able to assemble one in place.
 

 
Chuck

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

I added the sheer pole.  It is lashed to the outside of the shrouds above the deadeyes.  I painted it black but it could have been left natural also.  It is just a 1/32" x 1/32" strip with the edges rounded off a bit.
 
Then I started the ratlines with .012 rope.  You dont want to go heavy with these. The outside shrouds are simple square knots.  But I used clove hitches on each inside shrouds.  I urge folks to use them rather than simply tie a knot on all four shrouds.  The lines hang much better.  Its easy to do.
 

 

 
I used a card with both horizontal lines and lines to show the shrouds.  Its not enough to just use horizontal lines.   Having the shrouds drawn on the card will make it easier to watch your progress.  You dont want to gradually pull the shrouds in.  That hourglass shape for shrouds on a model is the kiss of death.  This helps you keep them straight and not pull them in as you progress.  I found it better to leave the ratlines a little loose rather than pull them tight and I try to shape them after its done.  
 

 
Only some watered down white glue was applied on the knots of the outer shrouds only.   The two inner shrouds have no glue at all.  I waited until a series of rows were complete so I could adjust them before adding the glue.  You can also see that I finally cut off all the loose ends at the belaying points after re-tensioning the lines and I added rope coils to the belaying points.
 

 
Now its time to start the ratlines on the starboard side.  Yay for me.  Merry Christmas everyone!!!
 
Chuck

This was my feeble attempt on Syren.  these are individual stamped and overlapped plates.   
 

 
 

The hull is also NOT broken into two or three bands like some do.....this is also true of the Bellona model that shows contemporary plates on a model.  I believe that is a much later application and if you are building a 1770-1790ish model one belt like this is more appropriate.  The plates more or less follow the run of planking.......beautiful....insnt it?  I plan to plate Winchelsea.    I had a flood a few years ago that wrecked the planking.  After fixing it I am not real happy with it so the plating of the hull should fix that.   The alert was the first ship plated and it would be great to show this sister ship with plates.......I will be replicating the plates on this contemporary model as best I can.

What you are looking at here are photos of a contemporary model (Minerva).  A rare example of copper plates made for a model and its contemporary.  If I remember correctly these plates were put on the hull with actual small nails....thousands of them.   Wish I had better pictures but these are the best I have close up of the plates.
 

 

 

This was my feeble attempt on Syren.  these are individual stamped and overlapped plates.   
 

 
 

This was my feeble attempt on Syren.  these are individual stamped and overlapped plates.   
 

 
 

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done. 
 

 

Mike
 
You will have to show me when you drop by the shop.   Today I am preparing to start the running rigging.  The first thing I did was make all of the hooks and also prepare the traveler ring for the jib rigging.  The traveler ring has both a shackle and a hook.  A simple version is shown on the plans but I will be using the traveler ring available "ready made" at Syren Ship Model Company.    It is ready to use right out of the package.  It has a 3/8" inside diameter.  They can be finicky things to make.
 
Now if I only remembered to slip one of these on the bowsprit before I finished the standing rigging!!!!   No worry though.   I will be able to assemble one in place.
 

 
Chuck

Al
 
Unfortunately I cant add to an order already submitted.  Its protection for you and your CC's are deleted immediately after the order is finalized.
 
This is how the traveler ring looks after rigging it.  The jibsail and foresail rigging is now completed.  All that remains to rig are the two yards....once I make them.   That will complete the rigging and then its the final stretch with a few additional details....anchors....flag....boarding ropes......and she is officially done.