Chuck

try this
 
steele tables
 
Chuck

When I wrote this I hadn't opened my Syren kit for many years. I'm now going to continue working on it while I work on my Caldercraft HMS Snake kit. Chuck's instruction manual is unbelievably excellent. It has about 130 pages with hundreds of full color pictures. My Caldercraft kit has about eight pages with text. Both of the kits have large ships drawings. I've only had models from about 4 different kit manufacturers, but none of them are even remotely close to the comprehensive kit instructions included with Chuck's Syren kit. 
 
Don't get me wrong here, I love the Caldercraft kits, but Chuck's manuals are in a whole different league. 
 

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Yellow cedar is actually a cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis).  However, while cypress is usually associated with shrubs, yellow cedar trees can be huge.  
 
http://vancouverislandbigtrees.blogspot.ca/2013/05/worlds-largest-yellow-cedars.html
 
You could probably build a model out of one branch.  (There's a few growing down the street and I keep my eye open after wind storms)
 
These trees can produce large clear timbers and boards.  It's also hard and rot resistant.  As a result it is a very good material for ship building, especially planking.    
 
I've done carving in yellow cedar and it is hard and fine grained, so it holds details very well, and has no pores, as hardwoods have.   Fairly uniform in color, but may get mineral streaks. It is dense, similar to black walnut, so expect your finger tips to get sore when carving.  The grain is generally straight, but can get some swirling.  Can have a quite pungent smell, as are most cypresses and junipers  (Tennessee red cedar is actually a juniper).  
 
Overall, a yellow cedar should be a very good wood for model shipbuilding.  Actually, it's the only wood I've seen that can be used on full size and well as model ships.  Many years ago I stored away a large box of yellow cedar cuttings, and some 2x4's that showed up in a load of Douglas fir boards, with the intention of using it for a plank on frame model.  If I need more, a few local sawmills cut it and it is stocked locally.  Prices for good grade boards are similar to hardwoods, such as red oak.

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

Very nice....it looks wonderful. 

Looking good Rusty...It is great to have you making sawdust again.
 
Chuck

Very nice....it looks wonderful. 

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

Erik
 
That is correct.  I use a simple knot appropriate for the job.   It is very rare that I will need to use glue.  At the very most I will use some diluted white glue on the knot or hitch afterwards.   They key is not using rope that is too slippery and difficult to secure without slippage.  For example,  the nylon stuff that comes in many kits is too slippery and this would work.   Many synthetic materials will be too slippery to simply use a clove hitch or granny knot to secure.  They come undone on their own without much help.
 
But its not a problem with the cotton/linen rope I am using.  No slippage or undoing of knots at all.  For the deadeye lanyards above the deadeye....this is one instance where I would apply a dot of watered down white glue.   Not enough to be permanent but enough to lock the granny knot in position just in case.   Its not under any tension if you can believe it because the deadeyes hold the rope pretty good once you have them all rigged in every hole.  Again...a slippery rope material wouldnt behave like this  however.

Thank You very much, and happy Thanksgiving.   
 
I rigged the Burton Pendants and started the shrouds.  The Burton Pendants (.035 dark brown) are served the entire length with a 1/4" single block seized on it end.   It hangs down from the trees a bit more than we are used to with a typical frigate.   Then  a tackle was set up to the pendant.  The tackle is only shown on a few contemporary models and I thought it was interesting so I decided to show it.  This particular version is based on the cutter model in the London Science museum and Peterson's book.
 
The Shrouds are pretty standard,  I used .045 dark brown rope.  The forward shroud is served its entire length.  The serving was all done on the "Serv-o-matic".  The remainder of the shrouds will only have the portion around the mast head served down to just below the cheeks.  
 
Below you can see my shroud gang taking shape with this first pair of shrouds done.
 

 
The deadeyes were turned in and set-up with the usual methods.  I dont particularly care for this aspect of rigging.  Especially getting that first seizing done just above the deadeye.  Its an awkward one as its oriented differently but it is important because it creates that shape of the shroud doubling you strive for.  The lanyard was rigged with .018 light brown rope and not glued permanently.  This was done once again so I can easily re-tension the shrouds after all the standing rigging is completed.
 

 
Now to finish up the three remaining pairs. 

Very nice....it looks wonderful. 

Looking good Rusty...It is great to have you making sawdust again.
 
Chuck

Looking good Rusty...It is great to have you making sawdust again.
 
Chuck

Very nice....it looks wonderful.