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Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from RichardG in Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF
try this
steele tables
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Jack12477 in Tightening rigging
That is something I would not recommend. Eventually they will get brittle and break. Its just not something you see on ship models and it would adversley effect the look and texture of the rope.
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Chuck got a reaction from druxey in Tightening rigging
That is something I would not recommend. Eventually they will get brittle and break. Its just not something you see on ship models and it would adversley effect the look and texture of the rope.
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Chuck got a reaction from justsayrow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from jablackwell in Tightening rigging
As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point. They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines, this makes it very easy to do. There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently. It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on. I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then. This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension. No need to cut anything. It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work.
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses. Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue. They will be easy to remove if needed later. And the line can be adjusted as described.
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Chuck got a reaction from allanyed in Tightening rigging
As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point. They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines, this makes it very easy to do. There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently. It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on. I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then. This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension. No need to cut anything. It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work.
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses. Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue. They will be easy to remove if needed later. And the line can be adjusted as described.
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Chuck got a reaction from GuntherMT in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from thibaultron in Tightening rigging
As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point. They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines, this makes it very easy to do. There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently. It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on. I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then. This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension. No need to cut anything. It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work.
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses. Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue. They will be easy to remove if needed later. And the line can be adjusted as described.
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Chuck got a reaction from tlevine in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck reacted to rwiederrich in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
I concur with Sawdustdave.....
Rob
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Chuck reacted to SawdustDave in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
The word "CLEAN" is just inadequate to describe your work Chuck.
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Chuck got a reaction from Erik W in Tightening rigging
As a rule....I dont glue any of my lines to their final belaying point. They are made fast to their pins and cleats but because it is inevitable that you will need to re-tension the lines, this makes it very easy to do. There is no really good reason to glue the line permanently. It will stay in place just fine and makes fixing the lines or even replacing them much easier later on. I have restored models that are over 100 years old and they rarely glued the ropes to the belaying points back then. This meant it was as simple as pulling a belaying pin and re-doing it with proper tension. No need to cut anything. It was a pleasure compared to models which had the ropes glued and hard to work.
I am currently rigging my model and have routinely adjusted the tension on many lines as it progresses. Once completed I will add rope coils over the pins with the smallest dot of white glue. They will be easy to remove if needed later. And the line can be adjusted as described.
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Chuck got a reaction from John Cheevers in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from MikeB4 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from albert in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from PeteB in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from Tim Holt in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank You guys.
The thimbles are made from thin wall brass tube. In this case 1.5 mm brass tube. I tap them with a blunt point as shown in this image. Not to hard. The brass is soft and the thimbles will tear. They will also stretch larger in dia. and become thinner than you cut the original length.
Here are some close ups of my thimbles thus far in use on the model. Also note the thimble not yet punched to flare its ends in that first photo. See how much longer and smaller it is. Hooks are shaped from 26 gauge black wire.
Chuck
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Chuck got a reaction from Rustyj in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from Erebus and Terror in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from coxswain in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from amateur in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from egkb in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from Mahuna in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from Seventynet in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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Chuck got a reaction from dvm27 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Shrouds are completed. I also added the lower backstay on the port side. The fiddle block is a min-kit from Syren (13/32"). You can see another one on top of the companionway which will be used for the other side. It is built up from three laser cut layers.
Here is a shot of the growing shroud gang. The aft pair as well as the lower backstay are served only along the top that goes around the mast head. They are served down to a bit below the cheeks.
Once that is finished it will be time for the sling for the lower yard and then the main stay.
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