Chuck

Great start so far....REMEMBER to have FUN with it!!!!!!!!  

I'm back from two weeks away and really eager to get back to the model. Prior to leaving, I had done the wales on both sides with ebony. Upon my return, I did one side of the lower planking, using holly. Caulking is simulated with pencil on one edge and the joint end of each plank. I did the planking in groups of four strakes and then trimmed the ends and did a first sanding after each group.  I'm  trying to decide whether to treenail this side now or to plank the other side and then treenail both sides. My real first choice would be to have the treenails magically appear without my having to do them.
 
Bob

Thanks Toni, that is the plan (garboard up from here-on.) Typical Garboard shape in first photo.  It gets a wet cooking in the microwave for 2 minutes, then held in place to dry (with the help of a blow drier).  Then glued down.
Maury

That rigging looks very impressive...wonderful work on that.  I am glad you are having fun with it.   It is quite challenging but very rewarding too.
 
Chuck

With Frank getting back on his feet and Sjors turning his attention to the Spanish fleet, I thought it would be a good time for a small update with some long promised photos.
 
The main and fore lower yards have been completed with the exception of the braces and sheets as I would surely entangle myself if those were in place.  The spaghetti all over the deck are those ropes ready to be deployed later.
 
The main and fore topsail yards have been pinned in place and are ready to be rigged.  We'll set the rigging spiders loose after celebrating the Memorial Day holiday here in the US.
 

 

 

 

 
I gotta tell ya that this rigging is a slow process but I haven't had so much fun since........planking......or was it coppering?
 
 

Many contemporary models and admiralty models were not POF either.   The method of construction doesnt really matter....its the end result that matters.....
 
Unless you really want to build a ship model as it was actually built, or leave the hull unplanked to reveal framing.....there is no real difference in the final outcome.    It just becomes a matter of your preference.   Which method are you most comfortable with?  For those folks that might look down on one method over another for some silly reason....that is a something they must deal with as it is usually just an attempt to make themselves feel better.  Here is a perfect example......does anyone want to guess how this hull was made??
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 

The longboat is back from the paint shop, where the stern decorating was completed..
 
I have completed making of all the parts and will start the rigging. I intend to follow the example of the contemporary longboat posted by Chuck P. with the rigging attached to the hull with hooks for easy removal.
 
Mike
 
 

Hi again to those following this log -
 
Progress has been a bit slow the past two weeks.  Actually, it went OK, but last week I got to do another site visit to two boats still in the marina, one with the rig set up, and the other fully uncovered.  It turned out that a significant amount of work had to be redone because of the new information.  More on this later.
 
The greatest progress was on the hull.  With the pieces together, as they were last time, the surface could be smoothed, hardened, and smoothed again.  Sanding continued down to 600 grit before the first of what turned out to be 6 layers of primer was applied and sanded down to 1000 grit.  The waterline for the color separation had been marked with a simple pencil holding jig before the upper and lower hull pieces were glued together, and this line was preserved and redrawn as needed during the priming process.  The lower hull was masked at this line with tape, starting with 1/16" width at the line, then wider to cover the lower hull.  The deck was similarly masked, starting with thin tape, but then switching to paper toweling held in place by tape.  Once everything was set the color coat, a deep blue, was sprayed from a rattle can.  Several light coats were applied, given a final sanding, and the final color coats applied.
 
After drying for a full day two white stripes were applied just above the color separation line.  These were 1/16" wide striping tape from a company called "Sig" and ordered from a hobby supply house.  They are quite opaque, are self-adhesive, and paper backed.  Once the paper was removed the stripes were carefully applied as straight as possible.  Then they were checked repeatedly and adjusted.  There is a small window of open time when the stripes can be adjusted up or down as needed.  I used pencil erasers to do this so as not to mar the hull paint.  Similarly, a 1/32" wide stripe was applied near the top of the hull following the sheer.  This is the logo of the Swan boats, with the arrowhead and tail cut from the wider tape.  The arrowhead appears on only the starboard side.  On the port side the hole for the spinnaker pole gets in the way.  Once in place the hull was given several coats of clear gloss finish to protect it and secure the stripes.  Here is how they came out -
 


 
Once the hull had dried completely I turned to the cockpit.  The first technique to master was the non-skid surface.  I tried some silkspan which a fellow modeler sent me, as well as tissue papers and other films, but none would adhere to the compound curves necessary.  I finally went with acrylic matte paint, as several of you suggested.  I got a series of 1/32" masking tapes and laid them out on the white background.  Then the non-skid areas could be painted.  This worked reasonably well, but some of the paint came up when I went to remove the tape,  Ultimately, it became necessary to carefully cut along the edges of the tapes before removing them.  Then I repainted the edges of the non-skid areas.  This looked fine, until I went to see the boats and found that the color was wrong.  I matched what I saw in my photos, but had not counted on the differences in light and how the color came through in the photos.  Using a "color preview" set from Benjamin Moore I was able to identify the actual tone and hue.  This was made up in a small sample, and the non-skid areas were overpainted the correct shade.  On the deck the hinges and latches for the hatches are cut from chrome foil and outlined in white. 
 


 
The boat designers chose to make a small nod to earlier ship construction with bench surfaces in the cockpit made up from wooden strips with 'caulking' lines between them.  These were replicated from a product called "Micro-wood" which is a very thin paper-backed veneer.  It is so thin that it can go through a common ink-jet printer.  I first laid out the design of the benches in the computer and tested size and shape by printing out the design on a sheet of paper.  When it was finally correct I taped a piece of the micro-wood over the spot where it printed out, then ran it through again, printing out the design onto the wood. The inked caulking lines were incised into the wood with the back of the tip of a #10 blade guided by a metal straightedge.  This essentially tatoos the ink into the wood while scribing grooves that can be felt.  Here is the setup -
 

 
Next on the construction list were the winches that sit in rebates in the bench backs.  The dimensions were taken from the catalog of the Harker company, whose products are specified for use on the boats.  They were turned from clear acrylic rod to match the catalog images and photos taken on the boats.  There are three pair, and none are alike.  All are made from black carbon fiber, but the ones furthest aft are somewhat thin with chrome self-tailing tops.  The middle ones are thicker, and have no self-tailing feature, just a chrome socket for the hand crank.  The ones furthest forward are thinner, self-tailing ones, but have not been turned yet.
 


 
Another surprise during the site visit was learning that the forestay furling fitting sits in a well at the extreme nose of the boat.  This is easy to do when the actual boat is hollow, but not so easy in the solid hull of the model after a lot of work has already happened around it.  The well was drilled very carefully, painted, then a plastic plate drilled with seven holes was glued in place to represent the fitting.
 

 
So, until next time, here I am, contemplating the work done and the work yet to do.  The figure is properly to scale, so the size of the boat can be better judged. 
 

 
Aloha
 
Dan
 
 
 
 
 

Many contemporary models and admiralty models were not POF either.   The method of construction doesnt really matter....its the end result that matters.....
 
Unless you really want to build a ship model as it was actually built, or leave the hull unplanked to reveal framing.....there is no real difference in the final outcome.    It just becomes a matter of your preference.   Which method are you most comfortable with?  For those folks that might look down on one method over another for some silly reason....that is a something they must deal with as it is usually just an attempt to make themselves feel better.  Here is a perfect example......does anyone want to guess how this hull was made??
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 

Many contemporary models and admiralty models were not POF either.   The method of construction doesnt really matter....its the end result that matters.....
 
Unless you really want to build a ship model as it was actually built, or leave the hull unplanked to reveal framing.....there is no real difference in the final outcome.    It just becomes a matter of your preference.   Which method are you most comfortable with?  For those folks that might look down on one method over another for some silly reason....that is a something they must deal with as it is usually just an attempt to make themselves feel better.  Here is a perfect example......does anyone want to guess how this hull was made??
 
Chuck
 
 
 
 

Well done sir.....Chris that is an excellent model and kit design.
 
And WELCOME BACK.
 
Chuck

I decided to leave the forward most, and aft most bulkheads in while I thin down the rest of the frames.  The first photo shows the tools that I have been using.  I started out with the mallet shaped sander, which I copied from this discussion group.  Although it worked well, I thought I'd try the rubber device that was cut from a larger piece.  This was more convenient since I could easily rotate the sandpaper as it lost it's grit.


At this point, I happened to speak to Toni, and she suggested using a Dremel Moto Tool, which could speed the process up quite a bit.  Although I have a Dremel, I decided to use a smaller and lighter unit that I purchased at Harbor Freight.  For light duty work, this tool works quite well, and I was able to get it for only $9.00 on sale.


It runs off of a power pack, which I plugged into a Dremel variable speed drive unit.  The biggest problem is the screw head that holds the 220 grit sanding disk in place.  I chamfered the edges so it wouldn't damage the model, if the head rubbed up against it.  That's worked out well.  The sanding disk is flexible, which also helps.  I tried a coarser disk, but it started taking too much off, and I wasn't happy with the results.


This little power tool is really speeding up the process, but you have to use a light touch, and you don't want to get too agressive with it.  Hopefully, the next time you hear from me, I'll be working on the cap rail.
 

Its very subjective.  I prefer different looks on different models.  I do believe its something everyone should try at least once.
 
I am moving this topic into the proper forum as well...
 
Chuck

Hello everyone for the kind words and comments.
 
These are the last pictures of the
LE BONHOMME RICHARD 1779  Part 2.
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  24

Its gonna be a while until I build up some stock....but "Chucky Blocks" are coming soon.       
 
 
Lets take  a look.   
 
Model Expo price for 3/32" single blocks 100 QTY = $20  You know what these look like 
Lloyd's price ..................................................... = $35
Jerzy's price - 2 mm .......................................... = $45
My price in boxwood will be ............................... = $27
 
Expo blocks compared to Warner's blocks below
 

 
My blocks compared to Jerzy;s (Jerzy's on the right) 2mm
 

 
And another shot of my 2mm blocks...the single blocks on the right have no finish on them yet the doubles have some wipe-on-poly.  This is an old image that doesnt show any strop groove.  I will have to take some new pics once I start up production.  These were basically my tests....I have made some adjustments (sheave slots wider slightly so the holes for rigging can be larger).
 

 
Hopefully soon.....depending on how much interest in this there is out there. 
 

Hi,
 
Yes, it is the same model. It seems to have took an age to get this far due to all of the internal work.
 


 
I have added PE window frames to the kit version of the area in front of the stove, after my trip to Portsmouth

From the old site,  I will once again create a post about this company.  This guy is pure evil.  If you you send him your money you will never see a product.  He is also not licensed to sell any of them. He is a crook and it is well documented.  I deleted a topic promoting it by an unsuspecting Jpet...
 
 
For those of you that dont know them.....stay away.  Dont even think about it.
 
I hope that was clear.
 
 
This guy should be in jail.
 
 
There was a long topic on the old site where the owner and crook himself took part in the conversation.  He is a disgrace.
 
Chuck

From the old site,  I will once again create a post about this company.  This guy is pure evil.  If you you send him your money you will never see a product.  He is also not licensed to sell any of them. He is a crook and it is well documented.  I deleted a topic promoting it by an unsuspecting Jpet...
 
 
For those of you that dont know them.....stay away.  Dont even think about it.
 
I hope that was clear.
 
 
This guy should be in jail.
 
 
There was a long topic on the old site where the owner and crook himself took part in the conversation.  He is a disgrace.
 
Chuck

Also...just give me a shout when you need a close up.  I have much larger originals and possibly additional photos of what you may be working on.
 
Chuck

Will do......an announcement will be made right here on MSW.
 
Chuck

Will do......an announcement will be made right here on MSW.
 
Chuck

Chuck. Please let me know when you are ready to ship. I too like to stock pile rigging blocks.
Page T
theshankliins@atlanticbb.net

I know we've chatted before but this is the official  'Welcome aboard, mate'.
 
As a first time model shipwright, make Chuck's practicum your bible ----- it's what got me to where I am.  That and the help you'll find here on MSW.
 
I see you've made sanding blocks ---  you're 1/2 way home
 
Looking forward to your build.  And enjoy your maiden voyage!

I have finished the remaining details and have permanently mounted the longboat on its stand.  The anchor flashing was removed and it was painted flat black.  I looked at the prototype on the NMM website and noted that the anchor cable goes through a ring, not through the anchor itself.  It is a heavy, dark left-hand twist rope.  I happened to have just the thing left over from rigging my Victory and used that instead of the kit supplied material.  The rope coils have been added and the paint touched up as necessary.
 
This was a fun build and although I used a lot of replacement material, I think it is a great project that won't take forever to complete.
 

 

 

 

 

 

I have to admit that the bracing, which is being removed in the next two photos, served me well.  There were times during the planking process when I put a lot of pressure on the hull, and the frame handled it.  I decided to alternate port and starboard as I removed the bracing, just to make sure that no stresses were created.


Removing the center portion of the bulkheads/frames was a snap.  (No pun intended.)  Chuck did a nice job with this design feature.  I used a rather coarse file to get down to the laser cuts, which really didn't take long.