Chuck

No thanks....I prefer to use my Uncle Pauly....
 
If someone posts something that is copyright...we are really good about that.  We almost immediately remove it.  I am not worried about that.  Most folks are reasonable and after talking to the original author we would certainly remove it.  Its folks stealing stuff that hard to deal with...But my uncle said its real easy....he starts with the pinkies.
 
Chuck

You Uncle Pauly must work in the same field as my Uncle Guido...Guido is actually a kneecap specialist

It's interesting to think about this.  I consider the Internet to be the "Wild West" - when I put something out there, I lose control of it and what happens to it from there, so I don't put out things that I don't want the whole world to know about.  I like the idea of license statement up front, but I suspect there would be no enforcement (nor would I expect any) so it would have more symbolic value than any practical purpose.
 
Bob

Thats not needed...most folks are good people.  They wouldnt do those things.  Those that would.....these types of agreements wouldnt matter.  If you post anything on the internet...beware of where it may end up.  Its really simple.  There is no way to protect yourself from crooks and evil people.  If you post any documents make sure you list your name and copyright.  Other then that...posting is open for all that "suck" to do their selfish deeds.  I have seen so many people ripped off (including myself) it is painful.   But those that are caught will be banned immediately from this site.
 
Chuck

I originally started my build log on 21 December 2012.  I know this because I started it with “Thankfully
the world did not end today, so I can proceed. I would hate to get halfway into it only to go “POOF””  Well, apparently
it took a little longer but ‘the world’ ended and we now get to put it back together.  Thank heaven for notes!!!!  If
anybody is taking a gander here before taking on this project I hope to provide
some helpful thoughts and observations. 
 
    This project involves the Model Shipways ‘18th Century Longboat”.   It’s a great project.  It appears to be simple and somewhat straight forward but the planking makes it a challenge.  This is a single layer planking with both interior and exterior exposed to view.  The planking is quite thin, leaving very little room for error.  This is an excellent model to hone your planking skills.  Plans are excellent.
 
    Once your ‘basic shell’ (more on that later) is set up I find that I can easily remove a plank/strake that does not work out and try again.  (I have done a bit of work on the model since I originally wrote this.  I DID have to remove a strake or two and try again.  It is very forgiving.)  Here goes!!

Time for a small update, just to let you know I am alive 
 
Thanks for the kind words, it good to be back.
 
I am making slow progress with the seine dory, next step is finishing the main rail.
 
Thanks for dropping by.
/Alfons

Hello,
 
Before I begin to install all guns, and work further with beams and knees for quarter deck, gun port lids must here. So the production of hinges, the lids itself are made earlier. I hope, the images are self explainable.
 





 
The installation of hinges and lid tackles.





 
After I have installed all lids, I have made blanks for channels, shaped them to right size and thickness, and installed them (only dry now).
 







 
To be continued
 
Alexander

T e i l  4

I finished the stern ornamentation. One of the biggest problems
for me was (and still is) to find a good method to transcribe the drawings shown
on the plan to the target  piece of wood, which in this case was a piece of Swiss pear
sanded down to about 5/64 inch. I chose the thickness of the wood slightly larger than
what the ornament finally should be. As transcription method I ended up with using a copy of the drawings
in the plan, blackened the backside of the paper with a pencil, placing the
paper on the target wood and tracing the drawings with a pen. This leaves the
traced part of the drawings as fine black lines on the wood. These lines I reinforced
again with a pen (image1.1). However, I would highly appreciate ideas for
better transcription methods! As a next step I glued the piece of wood with two
little droplets of superglue on a larger block of wood for easier handling.
Using a rotary tool as well as little chisels and an Exacto knife I first generated
the coarse shape and then the fine details (image 1.2). Finally the wood piece
with the carvings was detached from the wood block and sanded down until the
wood matrix (background) disappeared (image 1.3) and only the carvings remained
due to their larger thickness. This method allows generating carvings which ultimately
are thin enough to match the scale of the model. Image 1.4 shows the finished
result, images 2 and 3 show the Syren’s stern with the mounted ornamentation.
 

Production of stern carvings.
 

Mounted stern carvings.
 

Stern view of Syren with mounted carvings.

Now I only had to add a few small details to finish it up.   This was a relatively short project but was a lot of fun to build.
 
I created the oars in two pieces.   The handles were shaped on my dremel which I used as a poor man's lathe.  Once it was chocked up....I sanded and filed the square strip until it was rounded to spec.  But I left the square section untouched to create the final look which was common for the period.
 
The grapnel was a casting from Model Expo.  Seeing as this was a prototype for a future kit, I was asked to use one that they already had in stock.  It was a nice fitting and was perfectly scaled.  
 
That finished off the project.   I turned the display pedestals with my Dremel because they were small enough to chock.   They arent a perfect mating pair but look OK to my eye.
 
Thanks for looking and as always,  comments and questions are appreciated.  
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, I'm going to try and recreate parts of my build log for HMS Fly.  I have been working on this model for so long that it has now gone through the deaths of two sites - once at the old Dry Dock Models, and once during the Great Crash of 2013.
 
First a little back story.  I bought this kit waaaaay back in 2006 - it was one of the very first production kits off the line.  It should be done by now, and if it were anyone else but me, it probably would be.  But that's not the way I build.  My modeling urges come in intermittent fits and spurts - periods of great progress followed by usually long spells of inactivity, at least on the wood front.  I also build card ships and 1/33 scale card aircraft, so sometimes when you see Fly come to a halt, it means I have some other project on the front burner.
 
During the ensuing years, many fine models of Fly and her sister, Pegasus, have been completed here at MSW, so I will not go back to the very beginning and show all the basic framing and planking, etc.  Instead, I will highlight some of the bashing I did to the basic kit, mostly to give other builders some hints about what can be done with it.  I'm not actually working on Fly at the moment, so don't expect updates in the very near future.  Mostly I'm doing this to create a placeholder of sorts.
 
So, on we go!

Yes...see the link from Jays post above.
 
http://www.woodcraft...px?query=stains

FANTASTIC... What nice work, I'm looking forward to seeing more of this.
 
Tim

Chuck, very nice project, and instructions. I will definitely follow this when I get around to building a longboat for the Bellona (maybe in 10-12 years, at the rate I am going....)
 
Mark

To finish up the hull before the rigging starts,  I added the windless.  It was cut from square stock but then shaped with eight side in the center and the ends.  The two portions that remained square had some holes in them for the windlass handles.  These are actually square holes.  After drilling round ones,  I made them square by inserting a nail that had a pointy end that was square.  Pushing it into the round holes reconfigured them as square with a little coaxing.  Handles were cut to length and shaped as shown.   There were some knees on the sides of the hull which were cut from 1/32" thick stock.  They were positioned on top of the thwarts and against the cap rail.  
 

 

 
The rudder was cut to shape following the plans and tapered as per typical practice.  It narrows considerable as it works aft.  It was painted and the frieze details added.  The hinges (pintles and gudgeons) are just paper.  Then the horse and oarlocks were completed with some black wire.   That finishes teh hull and its now onto the masting and rigging.  I found this particularly enjoyable as its a simple rig.
 

 

 

 
Chuck
 
 
 

Hey Chuck,
 
Don't forget from MSW1.0 that I was among the first to express interest in building the Winnie along with Rusty, but I'd really like an autographed copy.
 
Ben

Can't wait to see the book!  It sounds like they could get quite a few pre-orders on the book.  I know I'd be one.

No negative on the book (which undoubtedly) will be great, as other seawatch-books are.
But I have to agree with Carl that the import- and transport fees to be paid on US-imported books are rather high.
And as to visit the US, the amount of paperwork needed for that is killing any fun of going.....
 
Jan

It was time to add some inboard details.  The floorboards were first.  These were pre-bent so they would lay against the bottom of the frames nicely.  Then the two platforms were added.  I glued some planks together edge-to-edge and then cut the proper shape using the plans as a guide.  I simulated the caulking between the planks with a pencil so they could be seen better.  The two platforms were notched along their sides to fit snug against the inboard planking and frames.  
 
The risers are the long timbers that stretch from bow to stern on the inboard sides of the hull.  The thwarts (seats) will rest on these risers.  It was important to make them the same height port and starboard so the seats werent noticeably crooked when I install them  I nice detail on the risers was the addition of scribed grooves.   This was shown on the NMM model so I included it.  They were made by running a sharp awl down the timber with a steel ruler as a guide.
 

 

 
 

Next up was to add the cap rail.  I like to press a wood sheet against the model and trace the shape of the open hull.  Then I add an extra 1/32"  to account for the overhang outboard.   Then i measure and draw another line inside of that one to create a pattern 1/8" wide or there-abouts.   I cut it out on my scroll saw and glue it on.  It looks awful at this stage.  But then I go back and file the edges so they are uniform outboard and inboard.  I tried to create a 3./32" wide cap rail or just a hair narrower than that.
 

 

 

 
Finally the friezes were added.   These were printed on my ink-jet after scanning my master.  It was sparayed with some hairspray as a fixative. Once the friezes were in position I used the bottom edge of the paper as a guide to add a strip of 1/32 x 1/32' molding.
 

 

 
 
Then it was time to paint.  The inside was carefully painted as shown in the last few photos above.  It was finally starting to look like a boat.  Although I like the natural painted planking on the exterior,  I thought I would try painting it tallow to match the NMM model.  I think it ads some interest so i decided to keep that look although many might prefer to leave planking natural.

The second is no different than the first.  I recommend lining off your hull as mentioned in several of the online articles here.  Then shaping and spiling your planks to suit.  That is truly the only way to do it properly.  I would also add that using only the kit supplied planks might be a problem as you may have to cut your shaped planks from wider sheets of wood.
 
Chuck

Thanks Guys,here some more pics....

The shipping cost and import duties in the Netherlands are killing. I pay twice the price I would have to pay in the US. It ain't fun no more after you've received the book(s)

Folks,
 
Since we do not have a repository for the Syren (Model Shipways) any more, I am posting the good news that Model expo started shipping and distributing the new castings of the Carronades for the kit Syren. I just received mine today and here is the new casting based on the original and revisited mold by Chuck Passaro:

 
On top is of course, the ugly "appendices" that were shipped with the kit. On the bottom, is the new and much cleaner Chuck Passaro casting.
 
Yves

Looks really good so far.  Glad to see another Syren being built.  
 
Chuck