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michael mott

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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. Hi Nils, Congratulations on the fine workmanship in completion of this ship,The pictures showing the cramped spaces below decks highlight the difficulty that serving on these ships must have caused the sailors in those days. Merry Christmas to you as well while I am here. Michael
  2. The steam engines power output being dependent on the volume of steam, would also be dependent on the size of the firebox area to generate the steam which is hottest at the fire and the crown sheet, or in the case of a marine boiler like this one the ability of the hot flue gasses to transfer the heat as efficiently as possible without all the heat going up the stack. More boilers would also create more steam. A larger capacity of steam would allow for the engine to run faster. A fast fire is not necessarily the hottest so some dampening on the vents and stack to slow the flue gasses would also allow more steam to be generated. a constant trade off would also depend on the wood being burned, Drier the hotter it would burn. Seems counter intuitive but but I heat with wood and a fast fire does not put out as much heat it seems as a slow one does. Michael
  3. My own understanding of this was not to reduce heat but to clear the ash and clinker formed so as not the reduce the efficiency of the fire. Michael
  4. Glenn really interesting following this build, I am enjoying seeing the way you are approaching the building of the engine. michael
  5. Mike if you do use a power tool make sure that the blade has very fine teeth or you might find that the wood will splinter. 1/16x 3/32 is pretty small, so also make sure that you have zero clearance on the support surfaces. Michael
  6. Oh and this is a great way to make tiny "fiberglass" model hulls over a wooden form. mini production runs of things like lifeboats as well Michael
  7. Hi Patrick here are a few pics that shows the process, you can use some old blister pack material which is clear or use some clear sheet styrene. These pics show a fairly deep draw or drape so your would be quite easy because you would not have to draw so deep. just enough for enabling a clean cut around the bottom as in the fourth pic first a former is made of the basic shape and a window of a thin material 1/8th inch ply or MDF is cut to hold the plastic which is attached with some masking tape. the frame or window with the plastic is then heated up so that the plastic is soft, this is easiest with a hot air gun but an oven will suffice if you don't have a hot air gun sometimes the plastic pulls away like this just stick a new scrap and do another like this with .015" styrene sheet or like ]this with some scrap blister pack sheet then you can cut off the section you need like this which gives you sections like these if you use the white you can fret out the windows like this and assemble the parts to form the whole I hope this helps. Michael
  8. Mike, a small jewelers saw is more than adequate for such small pieces. Michael
  9. Patrick the 3d mock up is certainly the way to sort out the different sections, I am sure that it will be amazing when you begin getting the shells done and get on with the interiors. Have you considered making a drape mould of each level then it becomes a reasonable task to mask out the windows paint it white peel the masking and then the interiors are free standing on the floors with the shells fitting over them. Michael
  10. Ed you continue to raise the bar... or in this case lower it through the deck. Exquisite work on the whole windlass. My only thought about the method of manufacture is seeing the drill chuck used for milling. I know that safety has been mentioned in the past and that you are careful in this regard, if the chuck holding the mill is mechanically locked to the spindle I would have no concern, however if it is held with a taper as many are then milling puts sideways pressure on the chuck and I have seen one come off. Ask me how I know this. Michael
  11. Late as well, happy birthday Remco. Your ships wheel is one of the reasons that I think this forum is one of the best forums on the net. Not only is your work exemplary, but you took the time to show us how you did it. I would agree that your wheel is one of the cleanest crispest wheels that I have seen congratulations on both events. Michael
  12. Pete I guess we all have a different concept of going slowly, to me you seem to moving at break neck speed... just kidding Very nice work on the insides, it took me a moment to realize that you had carved down the building forms next to the bent frames. I wonder how much of these same methods would work on a 1 1/2 inch scale model that you speak of doing. Michael
  13. Nice work on the mast Pete. I am always surprised by your skills with the x-acto knives, I would have used a block plane. A trick I learned recently is to have a sub sheet covered with some 120 grit paper then place my wood to be planed on it so that I can plane fine strips and tapers. the grit holds the piece without any fuss and doesn't seem to create any issues with the side facing the sandpaper. Also the set on the plane needs to be very fine. Michael
  14. Mark congratulations on completion of this step only ....... more to go, you must be pleased! your step to start over seems like it was years ago now and was well worth the decision. Michael
  15. Pete Very nice work on the ribs, How long are you soaking them in the Alcohol, and what type are you using, is it single malt or the other type It could add a nice patina to them. Michael
  16. Hi Nenad, I do not have any other pictures except a couple inside where the figureheads were displayed. Michael
  17. Hi Nenad I was looking for some pictures for family and came across these they were taken in 2003 before the fire A cover over the skylight Tea in the main cabin Judy steering us nowhere Michael
  18. Good to see that you resolved the skylights Nenad, Yes life's anniversaries do take us by surprise some days don't they. Michael
  19. Interesting idea for the window glass Denis. you could also tint it a little with some watercolour. Michael
  20. My that looks like a lovely bit of work, you make it look all to easy.... but yes..come to the dark side Luke....1 1/2 ....1 1/2 you can feel the force Michael
  21. Great progress Vaddoc, now that you have ventured into the rope making part, there are no end of possibilities for your rigging, Druxey's comment about the lay of the rope, is something you might want to look into a little. Your comments about the positions of the belay pins, and the details like the length of the main boom and gaff jaws are all things that from my own experience with sailing my yawl, are things that sort themselves out pretty quickly when you are dealing with the wind. Your machine looks fine, and after a while there will be tweaks that you will decide to make to suit how you work and what you want to do, it is the nature of the beast. Michael
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