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Everything posted by CDW
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Just an observation and an opinion... In the case of that weird geometric shaped photo etch that must be twisted and contorted in several ways to get it to resemble whatever it's intended to resemble in the rafts...I believe that photo etch is not necessarily the best medium to catch that detail. Instead, I think it should be thread to simulate the detail/s. The photo etch just doesn't look convincing. The photo etch at the bottom of the rafts looks fine, but the parts you had trouble with are a different story in my opinion.
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It's going to look just fine, don't over-think it. You can control how much gray goes down and it will allow you to give the look you want. That's just my opinion of course. To get finer lines, turn your air pressure down and remove the guard off the tip of your airbrush, so that you can see the tip of the needle and seat. Hold your airbrush very close to the line you're painting, and use one hand to help steady your painting hand (holding the airbrush) as you spray on the lines. I don't have ready access to a video to show you that technique, but just practice it on paper first. You can get very fine straight lines. What is your needle and tip size? If it's .3 or smaller, you'll be just fine.
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When I was a young man, traded one of my custom built motorcycles for a '55 Dodge Pickup that was custom built. It had a 440, big 4 barrel, and headers. That thing was just scary fast. The rear end would break traction so easily and start fish-tailing, even when you weren't trying to do a fast take-off. The '55 Dodge trucks had straight axles and leaf springs in the front. They gave you the true idea of exactly what the old saying "that thing drives like a truck" really meant. They were hard to steer, took a lot of muscle, and had a very rough ride. High speeds would make your hair stand on end, they were so squirrelly. Not a lot of fun to drive, I'll tell you that. Sucked gas down so fast, you could literally watch the gas gauge go down if you floored it. Maybe got 5 MPG at best.
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I believe you may be correct...that makes perfect sense.
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Everybody's going to have their own opinion, but I think it looks right. Not too much, not too little. Well done.
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For future reference... Mr. Metal Primer is a very good bare metal primer. It has the consistency of water, it's clear, self leveling, and is an "etching" primer for metal. IE: it attains a very good bond to metal that does not flake off. It is very slow drying, about 24 hours drying time required. The bottle comes with it's own brush in the bottle cap and you just brush it on your bare metal parts, paint with a color coat of your choice after the primer is dry. I've had the same bottle for a few years. A little goes a long way. Sells for less than $7 per bottle.
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Toms, Gold Medal, and Verlinden were a few of the very earliest producers of photo etch I can recall. When photo etch first popped up on the market (1990's I believe, maybe late 80's), it was a cottage industry. Mom and Pop operations in the garage sort of thing. Besides photo etch, Toms produced some vacuform/multimedia models that included photo etch. The most high tech model ships were cast resin with photo etch and turned brass/aluminum barrels. Talk about a pain in the rear...the resin was often full of pinholes and voids, often warped. Took a lot of prep work to build one of those back then.
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This is a great airbrush for a small amount of money. Lots of features, easy to use, precise, "made in Japan" quality. And the seller, Spray Gunner, he's the best around in service and reliability. Fast shipping, very knowledgeable. https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-289-0-3mm-platinum/
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Wow...a stroke of genius. Never let it be said that a 'crappy' idea cannot at the same time be a great idea. 🙂 Excuse me while I head over to Home Depot for some 'hardware'.
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I have a new Model Shipways Syren US Brig kit for sale. Bought the kit with the full intention of building it myself, but it's going to be too long before I have time to get around to it. Offering this new kit at a substantial savings from the current price of the model. $250 shipped anywhere in the USA except Hawaii or Alaska. Would need a tad more postage for either of those two states. Pictures available on request.
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I didn't realize you're in New Hampshire. I'm flying up there for a week next month. How's the weather going to be? Probably be a big change from my day to day tropical experience.😵
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Have a extra $100.00 to spend......
CDW replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wen makes a 1/2" x 18" hand held belt sander. Is that the one you're using? -
I never intended to build it R/C, although that's probably the most popular option with a model of this size and hull type. It certainly has all the space one would ever need to equip the boat with R/C gear. Many years ago, in the '70's, I built a Dumas Hydroplane kit that came out real nice. I had intended from the beginning to R/C that model, and equipped it with one of the K&B inboard glow engines it was designed for. By chance, I learned about a nearby pond where R/C boaters raced on the weekends. While I was there, a helicopter flew in and landed. Aboard the helicopter was Bernie Little, the owner of the Miss Budweiser unlimited hydroplane (the 1:1 version, not a model). He just stopped by to watch the R/C boat races. 🙂 Bernie Little was our area Budweiser distributor/owner and a very wealthy guy. At that race, I was rather disappointed to learn how frequently our R/C boats would flip over during the course of a race. A john-boat was an absolute requirement to retrieve the boats before they sank. Instead of racing my boat (which wasn't completely finished installing the R/C gear), I decided I would sell it because it was going to be too much hassle and I wasn't prepared for that. I realize of course, an R/C/ boat like the Calypso would have just a very small chance of capsizing.
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Keep it very light, misted on coats. Several light coats to cover are better than a heavy coat that bleeds thru.
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No Longer Available For sale is this Billing Calypso ship kit, complete and unstarted. Offering it here on MSW for a mere or, if you would rather, you can buy it from Ages of Sail for 😕 (just kidding, I know you don't want to do that). And I seriously doubt the new re released kits have all these beautiful brass parts. I hate to part with this kit, but I know it's something I just won't get around to building anytime in the foreseeable future.
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I got bleed-thru on my USS Essex carrier deck when I masked and painted the ship numbers on fore and aft ends of the deck. In retrospect, I could have first spraying a coat of flat clear, let it dry, then applied the black numbers. I think this would have prevented any bleed-thru that could be seen. Secondly, maybe should have reduced the paint a little less. In any case, the wooden deck acts as a wick to pull the paint under the masking.
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No Longer Available For sale is this 1:75 IMAI Sir Winston Churchill wooden model ship kit. This is the same kit as the Woody Joe label, but sold by IMAI (I presume at an earlier date than Woody Joe). Contents of kit are pristine, virgin, and unmolested. I am offering this kit here on MSW at a much lower price than you can buy it from Japan (Woody Joe). Will sell it as a shipped price to any address in the lower 48 states of the USA for If no one shows an interest to buy it here within the next few days, off it will go to Ebay at a considerably higher price to offset my fees and hassles there. Grab it while you can. A gorgeous kit. Will provide additional pictures of contents if needed, but everything is secured in it's original packaging inside. Payment by Paypal, please.
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Was it an auction or a buy-it-now price? Sometimes, guys are asking for prices they will never get. I sure as heck wouldn't pay $700 for one of these.
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