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CDW
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Everything posted by CDW
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I was more interested in getting a picture of the fish I caught in the '80's than I was my '57 Chevy. 😕.thumb.jpg.4e22a5cb205c9d1f43350a8751a83652.jpg)
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When I was growing up here in Tampa, there was a barge converted to living quarters that was anchored at the mouth of the Hillsborough River in Tampa Bay. The owner was known as "the Cat Man", because he had dozens of cats running around his boat. A really weird guy, he was a hermit of sorts and rarely would one see him off the boat and on shore. He lived there for many years and finally died. Rumor had it the guy died on the boat and the cats feasted on his carcass. Don't know if there was any truth to the disposition of his dead body, but I saw him many times over the years on his boat with all the cats running around.
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A Tamiya hull red color with a black wash would get you well on your way to recreating the color of RR ties. Lots of creosote on those things and they almost look black in color, only a tinge of brown. When I was a young man, a fellow had what looked like a mountain of railroad trestle timbers all piled up on his property. They were pinned together with 1" diameter steel threaded bolts, nuts, and washers. He gave me the job of sorting out all the timbers and building him a floor in his barn where he stabled his Belgian Work Horses. What a job. I handled those creosote timbers so much I don't even like looking at them anymore. Nasty job that was, but hey...it helped pay the bills.
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🤯🤯
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They were fabricated from tubing and covered with fabric, much like their WW1 ancestors.
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Glad you're aboard, Ken.
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Yes they are...that's their selling feature. Even when my eyes were 40 years younger, I could not have achieved that level of detail. Pretty amazing, isn't it?
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Here is the beginning of the cockpit construction and painting. Paint colors are Tamiya RAF Cockpit Green (made by mixing Sky 3x, Green 1x, and Field Gray 1x), Flat Brown, Flat Rubber Black, and Flat Aluminum. I tried my flash on the last 3 photos and they came out rather weird looking.
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Thanks OC! You will be my go-to guy when I need specific info on the Swordfish. I figured you might have an interest in a model of the stringbag.
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Just a little maybe. 😵 But to be totally honest, I don't plan on more than two weeks. We shall see. Tamiya is a shake 'n bake kit. They are so well engineered, they almost literally fall together. They are at the pinnacle of plastic scale modeling as far as quality and engineering is concerned. They are not quite as prolific as the Chinese kit makers, but far more precise. Fanatically so. This is the result of the ownership, the old man, Shunsaku Tamiya (the son of the Tamiya Corp. founder).
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Here is a look at the model parts inside the box Here we have the instruction sheet to give a preview of the steps ahead to complete the construction of the Swordfish:
- 79 replies
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This is my build thread for the 1:48 scale Fairey Swordfish Mk. II by Tamiya. The model will be enhanced by an Eduard and Tamiya photo etch sets. The Fairey Swordfish Mk. I was introduced in 1934, but by the time WW2 broke out, it was already outdated. In May of 1941, Fairey Swordfish Mk. I torpedo bombers participated and were instrumental in the sinking of the Bismarck. In the attack on German battlecruisers during the Channel Dash in 1942, all the participating Swordfish torpedo bombers were lost in combat. As a result, the Swordfish was redeployed to anti-submarine warfare duties. The Mk. II variant was introduced in 1943 with a more powerful 750 h.p. Bristol Pegasus engine, metal lower wings that would allow the use of 10, 3 in. wing mounted rocket armament. Here, I have pictured the kit box and the photo etch sheets that will be used in this project. I particularly like the Eduard pre-painted cockpit etch as the detail painting of each instrument is quite nice and adds a lot to the finished look of the cockpit. The actual flying wires of the Swordfish were flat, not round, so the Tamiya photo etch set captures that flat look quite nicely and I would be unable (obviously) to recreate the flat flying wires with thread.
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Mondello? MH = Mondello and Hughs Very well known in the Tug industry. I'm surprised you didn't know that or read about it on the internet through a google search. Nahhhh!...!...! ...I'm just yankin' 'yur chain, Lou! I cut these out from an old decal sheet that I had already used, but saved it 'cause it had a lot of unused decals on the sheet. Mondello was a well known maker of racing headers back in the day. MH made drag slicks. 😎
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- revell
- harbor tug
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Well this is the final installment, it's all I will do with the little Harbor Tug. She's ready for her place in my display cabinet. As much fun as it was in rather short order, I think I may drag out some of my other old ship models from 50 years ago and do those as well. They need some love, too.
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- revell
- harbor tug
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Excellent finale...she is glorious.
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This concludes the general painting and assembly of the Harbor Tug. Next I will spend a couple of days (or less) adding some details and detail painting/shading/highlighting/weathering.
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- revell
- harbor tug
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JCT This is the 1st time I laid eyes on your Picket boat. Beautiful! Looks like a real 1:1 boat with all the fittings and everything. Inspirational.
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- picket boat
- model shipways
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Seems to me the radius at the stern (underneath the planking) is the culprit. Maybe 1 mm off, but that's all it takes to leave a gap like that.
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Indeed. My bottle is just over a year old and they already changed the label and the color of the label from blue to green. Another thing, my bottle does not say, "cleaner" on it anywhere as the bottle does in the link I provided. That concerns me a bit as to whether they may have added some cleaning agent that could potentially harm the paint underneath the clear coat. As I said earlier, I would test it first before I used it on a prize model.
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Not mere gravel, but a gravel of specific hardness and gradation. Not sure about today's, but we used the L.A. Abrasion Test as a standard for specific hardness requirements years ago. Stability is a specific standard as well, and it greatly depends on the exact gradation requirements set forth by the project design engineer. Any road designed for typical vehicular traffic could in no way match the requirements for a rail road, period.
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Super job saving that finish without destroying the decals! You got it just right. Next time you're in Walmart, look for this product: Pledge Floor Care Finish https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pledge-Floor-Gloss-Original-27-Fluid-Ounces/15136693?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=5220&adid=22222222227009393605&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40343007512&wl4=aud-566049426865:pla-78303532352&wl5=9012096&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=15136693&wl13=5220&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaTjBRAdEiwAOdx9xpbN0piFmDnqKWqjsw-dceZAQf4Rflm1rPZcJvnAns3eyCTJXmenrxoCP0YQAvD_BwE It is a clear acrylic. Works great to put a gloss shine on our models. Safe for decals and great to spray on before using the decals to preserve them. Will make scratched clear plastic look like/better than new. Try it on some test pieces through your airbrush. Does not need to be reduced. Cleanup with Windex with amonia. It takes a little practice to get the feel for it through the airbrush. Don't use it on your prize model until you practice first. I have used it for years (decade or more) and swear by it. A bottle will last a LONG time.
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I've bought some of it as well. It would seem wise to try out the paint first on an old model you don't care about losing if it gets screwed up. I have read that others found reducing the paint to be tricky, perhaps because they did not use AK Interactive reducer? I don't know but it's worth proceeding with caution rather than ruining an expensive model. Retarder for acrylics should work with any brand as long as it's acrylic but test it first.
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