I have a question on this topic.  Does model ship builder have any rules about people taking photos from other persons building log, and using them in their you-tube video.

Mike R.

Rick  I just noticed that the guy line is just touching the top mast brace.  It will be an easy fix to move it to the inside of the brace.  I think the life boats look better in person, the close up photos show every imperfection that I do not notice with my eyes.

Mike R

I finished and installed the port side longboat.  The hardest part was waiting for the glue to dry.  The last photo is missing the sail handling lines.

Mike R

Thanks for the comments Rob and Rick ,  also to everyone who hit the like button.  Rick, I would think there should have been a railing there to prevent anyone from falling about 5 1/2 ft. to the main deck. Yesterday I used 1/16 square tubing to make the davits.  I then silver soldered the cleats to the tubing.  I added a couple of small brackets to the railing and drilled and made square holes in the channels to mount the davits and I started on the 24 ft. long boats.

Mike

Today I made railings for the forecastle deck.  The vertical post are 1/16" square ebony.  I drilled 1/16" holes in the base,  using a small chisel I turned the round holes into square holes  and finished them with a tapered square needle file.  In the posts I drilled two  .6mm holes which I ran 2 fine wires through and weaved the railings.

While adjusting some rigging on the foremast, the button on my shirt sleeve cuff caught in the rigging of the lower yard  and broke the brass knuckle joint  that holds it on the mast. I made the new one out of stainless steel.  Using my wood lathe and files I turned a 1/8 stainless rod down to .039" and then ran threads with a 1mm die. After I filed the connecting lug and drilled a mounting hole I reinstalled on to the foremast.  Needless to say I am now wearing sweat shirts without buttons on the cuffs.

My first carving attempt.

Mike R

At last the rudder is installed.

Mike R

I received my order of scroll saw blades and cut out the pintles and the preventer iron.  I soldered the pins in and used liver of sulfur to blacken the pieces.

Mike R

I guess it is close to a year again so here goes.  I finished the rudder and I think it is my best joinery to date.  Trouble is you will never see it because it is covered with copper plate.  For the gudgeons and pintles I am using .110 copper plate.  I cut and drilled the 4 gudgeons.  I attached the pattern for the pintle to the copper with rubber cement.  Then I drilled the hole and started to cut it out but I broke my last saw scroll saw blade,  I broke 2 blades cutting these out.  I am now waiting for  my order of 2/0 metal cutting blades to be delivered.

Mike R

An unexpected gem and well worth the trip is located in Canton Ohio at the Blue Water Majesty Museum.  I spoke with the owner, Larry Pulka, who built all the ships from scratch and turned his former warehouse into a display of impressive and inspiring works of art.  From his model of his canoe to the model of the Frigate his passion for detail is meticulous and would be appreciated by even the casual visitor.

Rick, I run into that problem too. I have dropped many items and found a few while looking for them on my hands and knees.  I probably spent more time looking than the time spent making the item.  I made and installed a new top mast crosstree, I replaced the cut away rigging, installed the chains for the Bowsprit and ran the rest of the running rigging.  I am working on the braces and have completed the braces for the skysail yards, the royal yards, and the topgallant yards.

Mike R

Keith

Your work is amazing.  When I  cut .250 copper or brass I use a Dewalt variable speed scroll saw . I use either #1/0 or #2/0 blades at a mid range speed. I cut through a thin layer of cutting oil on the brass or copper which keeps the blade cool and lubricates it during the cutting . When I take my time and cut slow, I break very few blades. 

MikeR

Disaster, while working the royal yard I broke the cross arm off the top mast crosstree.  I thought about trying to repair it, but it is the base of the top gallant shrouds so I had to replace it.  I really felt bad cutting most of the rigging off, but it had to be done.

Mike

One of today's projects is making the rest of the small eye bolts for the jack stays

Rob

 I still have to add on the fancy carved corner knees for the roof.  I never tried carving before so that is what the holdup is.  I did have a scalloped molding that went under the roof line, but I did not liked the way it looked so I removed it.  I am still plan on trying a different design.

I have been working on the iron work for the lower yard, topsail yard and the top gallant yard. These were silver soldered , then placed in an acid bath to clean them. I used liver of sulfur to blacken them.

Mike R

Mike

I use a digital caliper.  Measure the width of the strip, say .250  divide it in half and set the caliper to .125 and lock it in place.  Then scribe the line, to be super accurate scribe from both sides. You could also use the caliper to just center punch the piece and drill a hole.  I use this method to find the center of 1/16 brass strips.

Mike R

George

Thanks for the information.  I will give it a try tomorrow.

Mike

It has been nearly a year since I stopped working on the Flying Fish, well 10 1/2 months.  Today I installed the Fore topmast shrouds and back stays.  The inner and out stay is terminated under the fore deck.  To any Flying Fish builders, how did you accomplish this?  Any help would be appreciated.

Mike R

In the YOUTUBE video "THE FLYING FISH model clipper PLANS & PHOTOS by Funniest Super Heroes" the photos starting at 7:05 and ending at 15:44 are mine.  I was not asked or gave permission that photos of my model of the Flying Fish 3/16 scale were used.

Mike R

Thanks to every one who has checked out this build.  It has been fun.

Mike R

Rope coils around the fore mast

The following information is from "The History of English Sea Ordnance" by Adrian B. Caruana 

Hi Rick

I purchased a 4 oz.bottle of Liver of Sulphur Extended Life Gel from "The Contenti Company".  I mix 1/4 teaspoon of liver of sulfur with 3 oz of hot water.  After I clean the copper with acetone I dip the piece in the solution or use a paint brush.  It does not rub off very easily.  It works great on copper and not well on brass.

Mike R

Loading and cleaning tools for the carronade and swivel gun.