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dgbot

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  1. dgbot
    Druxey, I took your comment to heart and dragged out a digital caliper and measure the thicness. I should have gone upto 110 which is just under 1mm. However in order to get the paper I would have to get to the store. I will probably continue with what I have and make modifications. I am pretty sure as I can use this mistake to good use. David B
  2. dgbot
    Thanks for the video. Nice and easy way to do the job. David B
  3. dgbot
    There are several book on hull contruction that talk about the use and style of coppering. Underhille. Monfeld,Gardner,etc. Most will give you a base from which to start from. One of the books I always liked was by Milton Roth titled Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern. An oldy but a goody. David B
  4. dgbot
    Nils, what kind of paint are using and how are you applying it? David B
  5. dgbot
    Popjack, what kind of soldering paste are you using? They make a silver bearing soldering that can be chemically blackened. Your Bluenose is shaping nicely. David B
  6. dgbot
    Tamiya tape is great for a waterline once you burnish it you are ready to go. One word of advice. Remove the tape right after you paint. Otherwise you could have some trouble. Davd B
  7. dgbot
    Over the years I have worked in plastic and wood. Kit, modified kit and scratch. Since I am now staying with my sister for severe medical reason I do not have the luxery or the room to have my work shop. I did bring a kit with me that I can work on with my tool box. However of my club members came to several meeting with card models that he built and they were fantastic. As a result I am putting my hat into the ring. The only mess I am making is paper. The tools are needed are easy to obtain. And I find the challenge thrilling. I may redo this one a couple of times until I get the technique down and the right weight of paper. Thanks for looking in. My 1/96 scratch build of the Benjamin W. Latham must be put on hold. David B
  8. dgbot
    I find that the soaking in vinegar for awhile works very nicely no sandpaper. David B
  9. dgbot
    I use a small jewelers hammer. The first thing I do is predrill the hole. I will use a very thin pair of miniature needle nose pliers and push the nail in. A light tap with the hammer and a light tap with a mininail punch I made and on to the nest one. David B
  10. dgbot
    Go for it. The MS Bounty Launch makes into a great model. What is nice is that it can be modified inseveral ways. I have even seen it used in a great diorama depicting Bligh and his men being out on the ocean. I wish I could find that photo. When I do I will post it. David B
  11. dgbot
    As my Grandfather once said " There are many ways to skin a cat." You should always choose the one that is easiest for you. David B
  12. dgbot
    That is it I am calling the guys in the white suits. You must be admitted for chronic ship modeling. You definately need therapy. A nice bottle of beer and a good pizza and a good game on TV will fix you up. Outstanding. I am turning green with envy. David B
  13. dgbot
    Nicely done. I have found out over the years that the walnut supplied in kits is almost always unusuable. Either too dry or prone to cracking. You are doing a fine job. The use of battens is really not a big mystery. All you are doing is seperating the hull into a more managable area for planking. Once you get used ti you would probably do it all the time. Keep up the good work. David B
  14. dgbot
    Nils you are a amzing. I am surprised you are not thrown out of the house for spousal abuse. Seriously you are making ecellant progress and your planking is neat and clean. David B
  15. dgbot
    I have painted brass before using acrylics. The secret is the brass needs some teeth. The good thing about the original Floquil was it adhered to brass once cleaned and primed. The secret was that it actually was very mild etchant just below white vinegar. What I did after cleaning a brass part was let it sit in some white vinegar for awhile to give it a little tooth after a thorugh rinse and cleaning I was able to use acrylics after using a primer. You have to experiment it did not always work. In my opinion brass was always difficult to paint. David B
  16. dgbot
    Ryobi, Delta, Dremel. Craftsman. etc in my opinion are all good. As for the little vibration that can be taken care of. Many years I bought a scroll saw from a club member who was getting a new one. It was pretty good and the right size for my apt. The only drawback was vibraion. I used some closed cell neoprene sponge stripping in the four corners of the base and no more vibraition. You can use weather stripping to do the same thing. David B
  17. dgbot
    When you finish where are you going to put the case? Honeybunch might have a say in the matter. Looking good. David B
  18. dgbot
    Beautiful work. I always enjoy watching a model being slightly altered to a different concept. I admire your imagination and skill. David B
  19. dgbot
    Thanks for looking in. I have learned a lot and now I would like to return the favor. As I said the biggest expense was buying the ink. If I have to do it over with heavier stock I will. David B
  20. dgbot
    Looking good. Keep up the work. David B
  21. dgbot
    Thanks for looking in Druxey. This is all new to me and I need all the help I can get. I am currently using 28 pound should I go up to 32? David B
  22. dgbot
    I agree with you 100%. It is called commonsense with all the trolls out there you can easily get into serious trouble. David B
  23. dgbot
    You should make up several test pieces that way you can test it on different woods and conditons. David B
  24. dgbot
    I found a good You Tube Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B5nRNcNM16g It is pretty good. David B
  25. dgbot
    Very nice video, thanks. David B

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