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dgbot

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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. dgbot
    Acetone is a common cleaner it can be found at any hardware store or home improvement center. It is usually in the paint section. As for a blackening agent I prefer Birchwood Casey's Brass Black.. David B
  2. dgbot
    I got the bow on but I think I might of made a hash of it. When I was trimming I might of taken off just a little too much. It was not the easiest part to glue. David B
  3. dgbot
    My advice would be to stay away from Muriatic Acid. If you want to clean brass parts you can use ordinary white vinager. Once you brush it down just put in in a cup of the stuff and walk away for awhile. clean it up and rinse. Whatever you do make sure your hands are squeeky clean. I know a fellow who wears a non talcum nitrile glove. Dip it in some acitone and proceed to blacken it. Cleaniness is the key, but remember safety comes first. David B
  4. dgbot
    Gaetan I agree with you one hundred percent. To me a good set of detailed plans is crucial to everything I do. I would estimate that at least 80% to 90% of the kits being sold have incomplete plans or the wrong plans altogether. That is why I look for more information. From a museum, archive, photos, the company, etc. On my Benjamin W. Latham I did a lot of detailed research down to the kind of pumps and toggle bolts it used. This is what makes it fun. Many years ago I was asked to build a kit from Dikar. All I remember about the thing was that it was a French frigate. But the entire rigging was all English. And I turned it down. Plans are the key. David B
  5. dgbot
    I stared cutting out the parts yesterday. Needless to say I had to print out a few extra sheets. The straight edge along with a sharp knife is crucial. This is a new medium so I have a learning curve. I found out quick that the cutting pad will dull the tip in the middle of a cut and I would have to start over. Instead of replacing a blade on every piece I am using a honing stone every now and then. Then came the glue up. Not perfect but I can always start over at this moment if I am not happy. David B
  6. dgbot
    Here is a photo of one of my favorites. David B
  7. dgbot
    Mike it is good to see your Aggie again. I just found your build log and went through it. Your workmanship is as outstand as usual. I will be watching your build closely. Too bad you do not have the sufficient time to work on her all the time. PS Here in Waterloo IA and in Chicago beat you out on the cold temps for the past few weeks. David B
  8. dgbot
    Every year at our clubs we would have a round table on tools that are not needed or are a waste of money. The fair a frame is always the first item listed. David B
  9. dgbot
    Marvelous you must really enjoy working and building with metal. I think I might chicken out and go to resin casting. David B
  10. dgbot
    In my dept at my job we use 3 measurements. Metric, decimal. and standard. It depends on who the customer is. There are only 2 people there who can work with that confusion all the time. As a result we have three rulers and we just convert otherwise. I wish it was just one of them. David B
  11. dgbot
    I truly admire your work. You are an insperation to me. By going through your log I have learned a lot. Thank you. David B
  12. dgbot
    Could you show us how you made those supports? They look great. David B
  13. dgbot
    Nice work. Have you experimented with stains like Minwax? David B
  14. dgbot
    I think the reason for this is you have total control over the build and you can make sure the measuremnet oare correct and to your standards. David B
  15. dgbot
    The firstt three to for top planks are always full . The reason is the are providing support from the wales on up. From the wale down to the garboard is when they start changning in width. The wales or rubbing strake was usually double planked for reinforcment. You are doing a fine job. Top down to the rubbing strake then the garboard then any way you feel comfortable. David B
  16. dgbot
    Ollie, Do you know the thickness of the copper you are using. If it too thick you can buy copper tape form a stain glass supply. David B
  17. dgbot
    I would have to agree with themadchemest. You put alot of work and effort into your first build. I admire your tenacity. A link to your old build would help many others learn. Now for the cheer. GO! GO! GO! MARK! David B
  18. dgbot
    I believe the king plank served the purpose of strengthening and reinforcing the main deck. The upper deck did not need this and did not have one. David B
  19. dgbot
    That is what we are here for. David B
  20. dgbot
    They have those also. What these are is a piece of sponge sandwiched inbetween two micromesh sanding pads. Unfortunately when I moved I forgot to bring them with me so I could show you what they look like. To my knowledge several woodworking stores will carry them. Rockler, Woodcraft etc. David B
  21. dgbot
    That is a great kit. I have seen several completed models at Manitowoc. David B
  22. dgbot
    I also use a lead pencil. And instead of sanding the deck I would take either a single edged razor blade or a utility knife blade and scrape the deck smooth. Scraping shaves the wood leaving a smooth and polished look. Sanding might tear the grain. David B
  23. dgbot
    Druxey go to woodcraft.com. Navigate to shop essentials and click on sanding in the list you will find sanding pads. I have seen them and think they are pretty good. No left over metal dust and when the get dirty just rinse them and let dry. The grits are coarse to fine polishing. David B
  24. dgbot
    You are arousing my curiosity. I am waiting with excitement. David B
  25. dgbot
    Many ships had drag. This means that the keel is not parallel with the water line. Look at the plans. They should show you the water line. The draw a line parallel to the line underneath the keel keeping track of the distance 1 to 3 inches your judgement. Then measure the keel from the base line if the keel runs parallel it is then easy. On your building prepare a holding station that will hold the keel at a even distance from the board and 90 degrees on the sides. On this site there are pictures of a waterline markers. Trace it around the hull. If there is drag do the same thing with the keel holder but make it even from the waterline. I hope this helps. David B

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