tkay11

Fincham: That's very interesting. I certainly had not expected that such lengths would be used. Thanks. Chuck: Thanks very much for pointing that out. I had missed it as I just went straight for the scantlings and didn't take the draft into my consciousness. I'm having second thoughts about breaking the planking into lengths as it would mean I have to put the butt ends on 2mm frames. I'll continue to think about it though. As for a build log, I've been hesitant. If I do one it'll be more for how a novice gets to grip with the trickier elements (much as I've done in my previous build logs). There are already some excellent build logs on the web for the Chaloupe, although only one goes into the details of the construction (and that's only in French). However there are enough puzzles to make a log interesting -- a notable one being the use of 2mm frames when the plans show something more complex. I have reached the stage of putting the wales on the frames and am about to start planking (hence my interest in the lengths). Thanks for the encouragement, though, Chuck! Tony

I am working on the Chaloupe Armée (plans and booklet from M. Delacroix) and wonder what the standard plank length would be for the outer hull planks of this 42'8" longboat of 1834. The model builds that I have seen just place planks that are the full length of the boat, but at full scale I would have thought that 42ft would be too long. As far as I know, the normal plank length for larger ships would be 20-24', but would welcome any thoughts on how French longboats of that period would have been planked. I have the book 'The Boats of Men of War' by W.E.May, but the scantlings given in that book don't seem to give plank lengths. I have also looked at Chuck's Medway Longboat build and there he does provide two planks for several strakes together with a butt shift which suggests to me that this might be normal practice. As usual, I apologise if this question has already been dealt with but I couldn't find it in the forums so far. Thanks Tony

Just a note about CS6 and new cameras: although Adobe RAW is not updated any more for CS6, you can use the DNG converter for it (produced by Adobe) which is regularly updated for all cameras. All you have to do is run your RAW picture through the DNG converter, then you can load the DNG file into CS6. However, as Gaetan says, the results are always depending on the viewer's taste. Tony

I have a Taig lathe which seems to me to be accurate enough for my purposes, and second-hand (together with a large number of tools and accessories) it was not much more than one of these new Unimat machines. So the best option may be to seek out used machines that have been well looked after if you want to save money. Tony

Thanks for the clarification about Mike's speciality, Greg. I use an old hairdryer. But I have an old heat gun, so I'll try that. Tony

Yes, he does quite a lot that could be in the 'don't try this at home' category. His use of the table saw, for example. But as a surgeon he's used to being supremely confident with his risks which you can reckon he's worked at perfecting. At least I think he's a surgeon. I always enjoy watching different styles and approaches to model ship builds which demonstrate the wide range of imagination and thinking that can be applied to the same situation. He's also good at adapting his tools. Once I can start modelling again (hoping for August) I'll certainly go back to some of the videos for stimulation but I won't try the toaster idea as I can use other sources of heat. Tony

I deleted the Dropbox files of the translations and complete links of Mike's YouTube videos some time ago. However, following a pm from another member, I have reposted them in Dropbox at: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7lql7kn7vrz8ted/AABxuBO1WfPmefnzPN9aHx3ha?dl=0 Tony

Congratulations! It's a great feeling to have finished! Tony

On my browser it says 'sorry this video does not exist' in the place where the video should be. Tony

Sorry about that, Jan. My lack of knowledge. I thought that it was because we were in the EU that there were no customs charges on books. Tony

There are no taxes on the books into the EU or UK at the moment (while the UK is still in the EU). It's just the shipping that's expensive. I asked one of my relatives to bring the books over with him from the USA when he was visiting. If you're visiting or based in London you can PM me and you could visit to see the books in my home. Tony

One problem may be the potential for piracy as this would mean that you could download or copy such plans. It's great that Ed Tosti has been able to provide 2D frame plans on CD for the Naiad, but there don't seem to be many that are prepared to do this, . So for me it's not just having 3D plans that would be useful. I'd love a solution to the provision of 2D plans on CD because I find the business of undoing the distortions caused by photocopying (for cutting frames, for example) to be a real hassle. Tony

Thanks for that, Bob! Thanks to the cross-section I now have a far better understanding of what's involved in building plank-on-frame and am deep in the study of the Rochefort plans -- which is doing my French no end of good! Did you ever finish your Triton? Tony

There are plenty of references to rudder coats and how to make them on several of the builds, including the Sherbourne. It's true they're not seen on some contemporary models, but they are there on others, and referred to in the books. Dan Vadas made a lovely one on his frigate, as did Dirk on his Sherbourne, and I explained how I made my own lesser contribution in my Sherbourne log here. Tony

Tying the lanyards is well explained on the plans, but it will help to look at the other logs. The hull looks very nicely finished. Tony

There are some Triton builds with the planking showing joins inside. Some even show the anchor stock planking that is even more correct at particular levels. I don't know if there is an online diagram showing this, but the following is the illustration from David Antscherl's book The Fully Framed Model. I would recommend this book if you want to make future similar models, if you can afford it. Apart from the planking on the upper deck, it's hard to see the planking on the remaining decks unless you light it up. So only you are likely to notice joints between the ceiling or inner planks unless you leave the frames fully exposed without planking on the other side. Tony

Yes, nice progress! I like your method of holding the frames to the keel. Tony

Lovely work, Chuck. Are you going to have a horse for the foresail? Just interested! Tony

Niklas, I forgot to add a comment in relation to your saying "I`m enjoying the Rochefort even if it´s a little more than I can handle". To my mind that's exactly the reason for taking on a project. I took on my first kit, the Sherbourne, not only because I was intrigued by the idea of wooden model ship building, but also because it was something I thought I'd like to learn -- something that was beyond my skill level. The same was true when I then took on the Triton cross-section -- which was almost entirely an exercise to go beyond what I could handle, although I also much appreciated the beauties of its construction. So I'm definitely looking in my next model for something beyond what I can now handle as I really enjoy the process of learning, exploring and developing new skills. I could of course just settle into a comfort zone and hone existing skills to produce a beautiful model, as I might with a simple construction approach to La Jacinthe (although I could make it as complex as possible with full framing), and I still might do that, but I think I'd prefer the challenge to take me to a level at which I'd then decide to hone existing skills. We'll see! Tony

Yes, you're probably right, Niklas, about the sheer and half-breadth plans. And you're definitely right about using the small scanner for frames. I'm just such a miser that I get irritated to have to pay £10 or £12 per sheet and still have to correct it. I should also mention that I'm also wasting my time on scanning the plans because whilst we're trying to sell the house I can't do any woodwork at all -- every single one of my tools has had to be stowed away and absolutely no sawdust or scraps allowed! So I've deliberately been playing around with the small scanner and software just to see how much accuracy I can achieve with corrections. As you say, it's what you can live with -- and the small levels of distortion when translated to real wood at 1:48 are probably no more than a file cut away from perfection. So like you, I know that when it comes to the crunch I'll be living with at least better distortions than I have at the moment! Tony

I think it's entirely up to you. The original NMM plans of the Sherbourne/Sherborn seem to suggest the transom is both raised above the rail and wider (overlapping) so most people have gone with a form that shows that, with or without a rail on top or on the top and sides. Have a look at all the various pictures and models of cutters. There's so much variability that you have a lot to choose from. Here's the link to the pictures I took at the National Maritime Museum at Chatham. There are also hundreds of pictures and several models if you look at the NMM website. I think Chuck also has links to cutter models in the US museums, or should we say musea? (I've forgotten my Latin). Tony

That's very funny, Niklas, because your build of Le Rochefort made me go back to have a look at it again as a possibility for my next build. I've been scanning the different ship's plans I have before making CAD tracings as part of the process of deciding which to build first (the others being the Brixham trawler Valerian, the Frigate Naiad, and La Jacinthe). You've seen the interesting discussion about framing the Brixham trawler and I was pleased to work out how to do the framing for that. As I'll be visiting Brixham in June to see the three main trawlers re-built there, I'll have lots of photos to help and that may well help me to finalise the decision. But the step-by-step guide provided by Ed Tosti with the Naiad is very tempting, and Le Rochefort is tempting because the framing is simpler and very clearly presented (as well as being a merchant ship, which I prefer). La Jacinthe is still on my list simply because it's a beautiful ship and I think my wife would prefer it far more than the others! One of the irritating things about scanning from paper (especially if it's been folded) is the fact that the flatbed scanners have complex distortions which don't allow for simple re-sizing and overlapping if you want a really accurate result, so I have to end up making small sections and re-adjusting. In fact it's the same process as re-drafting on to paper as I have to make a grid and use the measurements of each part of the plans to which I can re-size. The errors are approximate 1mm per 100mm, but variable with both barrel and pincushion distortion, so it's much easier when the plans are provided as pdfs (as for the Naiad) when there's no distortion and only errors of drafting. Thanks for appreciating the Triton, though! I much enjoyed doing it. Tony

My message box was full. I have now deleted about half the messages, so if anyone wants to PM me in future that should work. Tony

Very nice work! Tony

Thanks, B.E. As one of the people from whom I continue to learn, much appreciated as well! Tony