tkay11

Sorry about that, Jan. My lack of knowledge. I thought that it was because we were in the EU that there were no customs charges on books. Tony

There are no taxes on the books into the EU or UK at the moment (while the UK is still in the EU). It's just the shipping that's expensive. I asked one of my relatives to bring the books over with him from the USA when he was visiting. If you're visiting or based in London you can PM me and you could visit to see the books in my home. Tony

One problem may be the potential for piracy as this would mean that you could download or copy such plans. It's great that Ed Tosti has been able to provide 2D frame plans on CD for the Naiad, but there don't seem to be many that are prepared to do this, . So for me it's not just having 3D plans that would be useful. I'd love a solution to the provision of 2D plans on CD because I find the business of undoing the distortions caused by photocopying (for cutting frames, for example) to be a real hassle. Tony

Thanks for that, Bob! Thanks to the cross-section I now have a far better understanding of what's involved in building plank-on-frame and am deep in the study of the Rochefort plans -- which is doing my French no end of good! Did you ever finish your Triton? Tony

There are plenty of references to rudder coats and how to make them on several of the builds, including the Sherbourne. It's true they're not seen on some contemporary models, but they are there on others, and referred to in the books. Dan Vadas made a lovely one on his frigate, as did Dirk on his Sherbourne, and I explained how I made my own lesser contribution in my Sherbourne log here. Tony

Tying the lanyards is well explained on the plans, but it will help to look at the other logs. The hull looks very nicely finished. Tony

There are some Triton builds with the planking showing joins inside. Some even show the anchor stock planking that is even more correct at particular levels. I don't know if there is an online diagram showing this, but the following is the illustration from David Antscherl's book The Fully Framed Model. I would recommend this book if you want to make future similar models, if you can afford it. Apart from the planking on the upper deck, it's hard to see the planking on the remaining decks unless you light it up. So only you are likely to notice joints between the ceiling or inner planks unless you leave the frames fully exposed without planking on the other side. Tony

Yes, nice progress! I like your method of holding the frames to the keel. Tony

Lovely work, Chuck. Are you going to have a horse for the foresail? Just interested! Tony

Niklas, I forgot to add a comment in relation to your saying "I`m enjoying the Rochefort even if it´s a little more than I can handle". To my mind that's exactly the reason for taking on a project. I took on my first kit, the Sherbourne, not only because I was intrigued by the idea of wooden model ship building, but also because it was something I thought I'd like to learn -- something that was beyond my skill level. The same was true when I then took on the Triton cross-section -- which was almost entirely an exercise to go beyond what I could handle, although I also much appreciated the beauties of its construction. So I'm definitely looking in my next model for something beyond what I can now handle as I really enjoy the process of learning, exploring and developing new skills. I could of course just settle into a comfort zone and hone existing skills to produce a beautiful model, as I might with a simple construction approach to La Jacinthe (although I could make it as complex as possible with full framing), and I still might do that, but I think I'd prefer the challenge to take me to a level at which I'd then decide to hone existing skills. We'll see! Tony

Yes, you're probably right, Niklas, about the sheer and half-breadth plans. And you're definitely right about using the small scanner for frames. I'm just such a miser that I get irritated to have to pay £10 or £12 per sheet and still have to correct it. I should also mention that I'm also wasting my time on scanning the plans because whilst we're trying to sell the house I can't do any woodwork at all -- every single one of my tools has had to be stowed away and absolutely no sawdust or scraps allowed! So I've deliberately been playing around with the small scanner and software just to see how much accuracy I can achieve with corrections. As you say, it's what you can live with -- and the small levels of distortion when translated to real wood at 1:48 are probably no more than a file cut away from perfection. So like you, I know that when it comes to the crunch I'll be living with at least better distortions than I have at the moment! Tony

I think it's entirely up to you. The original NMM plans of the Sherbourne/Sherborn seem to suggest the transom is both raised above the rail and wider (overlapping) so most people have gone with a form that shows that, with or without a rail on top or on the top and sides. Have a look at all the various pictures and models of cutters. There's so much variability that you have a lot to choose from. Here's the link to the pictures I took at the National Maritime Museum at Chatham. There are also hundreds of pictures and several models if you look at the NMM website. I think Chuck also has links to cutter models in the US museums, or should we say musea? (I've forgotten my Latin). Tony

That's very funny, Niklas, because your build of Le Rochefort made me go back to have a look at it again as a possibility for my next build. I've been scanning the different ship's plans I have before making CAD tracings as part of the process of deciding which to build first (the others being the Brixham trawler Valerian, the Frigate Naiad, and La Jacinthe). You've seen the interesting discussion about framing the Brixham trawler and I was pleased to work out how to do the framing for that. As I'll be visiting Brixham in June to see the three main trawlers re-built there, I'll have lots of photos to help and that may well help me to finalise the decision. But the step-by-step guide provided by Ed Tosti with the Naiad is very tempting, and Le Rochefort is tempting because the framing is simpler and very clearly presented (as well as being a merchant ship, which I prefer). La Jacinthe is still on my list simply because it's a beautiful ship and I think my wife would prefer it far more than the others! One of the irritating things about scanning from paper (especially if it's been folded) is the fact that the flatbed scanners have complex distortions which don't allow for simple re-sizing and overlapping if you want a really accurate result, so I have to end up making small sections and re-adjusting. In fact it's the same process as re-drafting on to paper as I have to make a grid and use the measurements of each part of the plans to which I can re-size. The errors are approximate 1mm per 100mm, but variable with both barrel and pincushion distortion, so it's much easier when the plans are provided as pdfs (as for the Naiad) when there's no distortion and only errors of drafting. Thanks for appreciating the Triton, though! I much enjoyed doing it. Tony

My message box was full. I have now deleted about half the messages, so if anyone wants to PM me in future that should work. Tony

Very nice work! Tony

Thanks, B.E. As one of the people from whom I continue to learn, much appreciated as well! Tony

Thanks, Al. You seemed to be getting on just fine with your build when last I looked! But I'm glad if I've acted as a stimulus! Tony

Nice for me to see this. Good work! Going to be really helpful when I get round to starting my Rochefort. Thanks! Tony

Steve's correct about the deadeyes. I thought the plans had shown them correctly, as well as how to thread them. Nice work, though. Tony

Excellent and useful summary, Mike! Thanks! Tony

They are indeed very similar as cutters and I almost bought the Lady Nelson kit as a first model except that they were out of stock at the time and I took the Sherbourne instead. If you're talking of the Amati/Victory Models version of the Lady Nelson, there's plenty of pictures and builds to see on this forum and the web to compare with the Sherbourne -- as well as with the various kit suppliers, but essentially rigging, spars, deck layout, pump positions, companionway, number of guns, age. The Lady Nelson design also is not of any particular real ship, whilst the Sherbourne is based to a large extent on the plans of the ship in 1763 at the National Maritime Museum in the UK. If you're talking of Chris Watton who designed the kit of the Lady Nelson, he designed kits of the Victory and several other ships, but I didn't know he designed the kit of the Sherbourne. The original designer of the Sherbourne was Sir Thomas Slade, who also designed the Victory, so I am not sure about the point you are making about the designers. Tony

Ed, you're a marvel! Thanks so much for all the info. I'll collect all the addenda and have downloaded the list. I'll definitely start a log, though, because of house moving this summer, it may be some time before I can make my decision. In the meantime I'm planning very carefully! Tony

Thanks a lot, Shawn. That's cleared it all up! Tony

Oops! After more careful going through the text, I think I've answered at least part of my question. It seems I am indeed missing plan 4 (the centreline structure drawing) which I now see is referenced as such in Volume 1 on page 19. I think two copies of plan 3 were sent by mistake instead of one copy each of plans 3 and 4. However, I'd still like to know if there's a plan 2A, if anyone can help. Thanks Tony

I recently received my copies of Vol I and II of the Naiad books, and have just started studying the plans so that I can determine whether I go ahead and start the build or postpone it till I have better skills. However, I am puzzled by the plan numbering, and just want to check that I do in fact have all the plans. It would be great if someone could provide a list of the plans and what they contain. With volume 1 of the Naiad I have the following: I sheet each of plans 1, 2, 2B, then 2 sheets of plan 3, and then 1 copy of 13A-D With volume 2 I have: 1 sheet each of Plans 5-12, and plan 14. I presume plan 13 from volume 1 is the plan 13 for the second volume. My question is: am I missing plan sheets 2A and 4 or are there no plans with that numbering? I haven't read through the volumes thoroughly yet, but I can't see any obvious listing of the plan sheets. I'd be grateful for any advice. I've written to Bob and Cathy at Seawatch Books, but I'm posting here in case there's a simple answer. Tony