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Trussben

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Everything posted by Trussben

  1. Here is what I have cooked up for my Winchelsea build to add a little difference to it. I intend to add a frame reveal to the model, much like Chuck's one on his Confederacy or David's one on the Comet. Midships is the obvious place to put a reveal so as to simplify the design work and make construction easier, so I have decided to make mine between the bulkheads of station frames G thru 5, Also it will be just below the wales to allow for two strakes of lower planking above and several below it. It will be quite a large reveal so as to show the first and second futtock frame joints, I will have to construct a shadow box behind it to be painted flat black and the simulated frames will be made of swiss pear. According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide second futtock framing, molded 9" with a room and space of 27 3/4", I intend to simplify this a little with 11" wide framing with 3" between them, and it works out that I can fit 23-24 frames in the reveal. I will finish the design side of this soon and start building it when I have completed construction of the stern framing. ben
  2. I’ve begun lining up the stern framing and adjusting everything before glueing using the patterns and plans supplied by Chuck, everything is lining up nicely and looks real good. ben
  3. Port layout and upper/lower cill framing complete, no issues were encountered with this process, and I have begun installing the port sides. Next up will be adding the stern framing and I’m also cooking up something special to add to this model which will change the original design somewhat but hopefully it will add to the whole. ben
  4. She looks great Rusty, have you decided on the final finish you are going to apply to that gorgeous pear? Maybe even oil it like Chris did on his Confed - that looked sublime IMO. ben
  5. Thanks for all the likes. Rusty - I have been at home for a few weeks so have managed to spend some time in the shop, that will soon come to an end but I hope to get the port framing completed before I go back on the road. Erik - sorry to hear the benches are so expensive, you could try and make one, instead of drawers just make 2-3 shelves instead, wouldn’t be too hard I think. ben
  6. Yep Chris, I have started the Rough fairing process before I start the port framing layout, you can see the flexible holly battern I use to check fairness as I go.
  7. I have completed the keel and started glueing the bulkheads together, here you can see them sat in place. ben
  8. Thanks David and Rusty, I decided to make up both the AYC and my own Pear/Box knee of the head to look at the difference in color and grain appearance and I have decided to go ahead with my decision to make the framing in Pear. ben
  9. Hi So I'm going to go ahead and start a build log of the Winchelsea, It will based off Chuck's designs with a few modifications of my own. My main reason for building her is because she was once captained by Pellew and I intend in the future to build another of his ships, a 1:48 fully framed model of the 44 gun Razee Indefatigable and it would be great to have both models together in the same scale. I will not be planking in AYC as I have a goodly stock of Castello Boxwood and prefer it on a model of this size, also stem/stern framing and keel will be of Swiss Pear with other wood highlights, maybe I will use the cedar on things that wont be seen easily and use the fruitwood gel stain that Chuck has discovered to blend it with the boxwood to minimize usage. I did purchase the Bulkheads and starter packages from Chuck and will certainly be buying his cast resin set when they are available. The first job I have started while waiting for planking to dry on Pegasus is to make a new build board for this "BIG" ship, it will be approx 38" long without rigging and will need good support while framing, planking and finishing, so I decided to go and buy another 'cheap' 5foot workbench from Harbor Freight for $100 and modify it to suit. First it was put together and lift casters added so that I can quickly move and spin the bench whichever way I need it. Second was to add 4-foot T-tracks and a nice large 1/2" MDF buildboad to the top. Third was to install the keel and bulkhead former holders ready for the backbone. The 4 drawers are great for holding parts/tools and the bottom shelf for materials which keeps an entire build together on one table instead of being spread about my workshop. Here is looking forward to an interesting build and I should start on the bulkheads later this week. ben
  10. Hey Rusty, just catching up and I think I see that your stern framing is still a bit wrong, see doctored picture showing where the upright and the back of the port should go to in yellow and the red shows where the bottom sill of the QG door should slant, this will affect the QG door a bit I think. Maybe you can get away with just filing the correct angle into that existing bottom framing to get it correct. Also I think you have your foremost gunport a little bit too far aft, the plans show its foreward aft edge on the aftside of bulkhead W, yours appears quite a bit further back than that, should be real easy to fix. BR ben
  11. Hi Lyle, TFFM stand for “ The fully framed model” which is a set of 4 books written by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert and they are available from Seawatch books, who are one of the sponsors of Model ship world and you can find a link to their site on the main page. The set of books is an excellent reference for many things in model ship building and in my opinion a must have for any serious model builder looking to move into scratch building. ben
  12. Work continues on upper planking to the sheer strake, this is a “fun” one to make and blend into the other planking. ben
  13. Port side has been marked and started drilling for treenails, have to draw some boxwood down, wow this is tedious work.
  14. Nice progress, I did the same thing when raising the cant frames on Pegasus by taking the frame line off the plans and putting it on the support, really helped dial in the position much better. ben
  15. That is correct as per TFFM, 7/8”. Strakes at this point at 3” thick getting thinner as I go further up to 2” thick.
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