gjdale

Hi All,
Small update:
 
Still working on the Aft Superstructure PE and have more to go before I can complete....
I have enough completed to clad the Bottom Superstructure tier but have more tasks to complete before I can contemplate installing this. (It would be nice but then I'd be rushing.)
 
Completed some other PE for cladding the second tier also, quite complex and took a few hours of work. I do however think that, I'm getting a little better at PE. (For positioning open Scuttles, etc, I have started to use a tiny dot of Blue-Tack to hold the part in position, dot with CA and let the capillary thing happen.... 🙂
 
PE waiting for my attentions, probably tomorrow:
More Superstructure cladding Catapults (There's some "Tempting" PE Frets including cladding for Barbette "Caesar." 🙂)
Tasks that are required before attaching PE:
Position cladding Draw Port Hole locations Remove cladding and drill Port Holes Clamp Printed Decking to Superstructure Sand edges of Decking flush with Superstructure sides Remove Printed Decking Install PE cladding Clear as mud?
 
So, I think my tasks tomorrow I'll start with more PE, (I feel that I am punishing myself a bit but I need to get a better handle on the vagaries of this medium.), then get the Decking flush.
 
So, that's me for today anyway....
 
Cheers....HOF.
 
A couple of photos:
 

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

After a brief side project making some bandsawn Reindeer Christmas decorations, 
 

 
it was time to proceed with the Capstan Body. 
 
The Capstan Body is assembly P/N 300 and is comprised of the Barrel (P/N 301), the Whelps (P/N 029), the Chocks (P/N 030 and 031), and the retaining pin assembly (P/N 303).
Barrel (P/N 301)
The barrel, while made from a single piece of timber, has a varying cross section. At the top it is square, the mid-portion is ten-sided, and the lower part is circular, with a stepped section for the gasket. The retaining pin assembly is also cut from the same piece of stock. All of these cross-sections are achieved using a combination of the lathe and the mill.
 
It all starts with a square blank. The length of the blank needs to be long enough for a little extra length for work holding, but short enough that it will fit in the mill mounting arrangement (seen later).
 
Rather than mounting the (not-quite) square blank in a four-jaw chuck and leaving the extra length square-ish in section, I opted to mount it between centres and turn the entire length, which would subsequently allow me to mount it in a three-jaw chuck. Here is the start of the process.
 

 
Once the entire length was turned down to the maximum diameter of the barrel, the narrower sections for the gasket and the part that will go through the Capstan Step were turned down.
 

 
The part was then removed from the lathe and inserted in a three-jaw chuck, which was mounted on the mill rotary table, which was attached to a right-angle mount. The “tail” end was supported using an adjustable tailstock holder. Here is the overall set-up, which facilitated milling of the ten-sided section and the square top section. In this photo all of the milling has been completed.
 

 
All of that sounds easy, and it is if you pay attention to correct set-up of your mill – which I failed to do on the first attempt. It had been quite a while since I had used the mill and I simply forgot some of the basics. After a failed first attempt, I started over and this time spent the necessary time to align the rotary table in both the Y and Z axes, and to align the tail-stock holder properly with the chuck. A little bit of fiddling to be sure, but really the only way to ensure that your final product will be what you intended, within the tolerances you intended.
 
The part was left in the chuck and the chuck removed from the rotary table and returned to the lathe for the next operation. After using a 1/8” centre drill to start the hole, a regular 1/8” drill bit was used to drill through the excess material, through what would become the retaining pin assembly, and into the base of the capstan body. This departs slightly from Toni’s drawing and is a little bit of a “cheat”, but was the easiest way to ensure that the holes for the retaining pin aligned perfectly.
 

 
The main body was then separated from the retaining pin assembly and cut roughly to length at the top (square) end. The main body was then reversed in the chuck and the square end cut down to final length by a series of facing cuts on the lathe. Similarly, the retaining piece was cut to rough length with a hand saw and then re-inserted in the chuck and trimmed to final length with another series of facing cuts. After test-fitting the assembly, I found that the retaining piece needed to be significantly shorter than shown in the drawings in order that it not extend below the deck beams. This was a simple fix – the piece was marked to a new final length directly from the deck beams and re-inserted in the lathe for another series of facing cuts.
 
A piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod was cut to length for the retaining pin (P/N 028) and epoxied into the retaining piece (P/N 027). Here is a picture of all three pieces prior to gluing the retaining pin in place.
 

 
The Whelps are next….

FLoyd, I’m not sure what you are referring to here. If you’re talking about seizing of blocks and you are seeing gaps they are unintentional. If you are talking about securing the tail end of a shroud or stay, then there are two seizings with a space between them. I can’t remember how many “wraps” I used for each - just until it looked about right.

Floyd,
 
Thanks for the kind comment on my seizings. There are many ways to do the seizing. The way I do them may not necessarily be correct, but they seem to look okay. I generally just use a simple series of overhand knots tied on alternate sides of the seizing. I start furthest from the block and work back towards the block, so that the seizing closes up the gap. I then put a dab of diluted PVA on the entire seizing and trim the ends once dry.

I'm working out the dimensions of the benches using bass wood pieces first. once I get it to where I'm satisfied (Certainly not perfect) I'll use the bass wood cut outs as templates to shape the cherry cut outs that are provided in the kit. I'm going to take my time tweaking in each angle until it's close enough to what I feel will work. There's nothing a little filler can't take care of anyhow.

After a brief side project making some bandsawn Reindeer Christmas decorations, 
 

 
it was time to proceed with the Capstan Body. 
 
The Capstan Body is assembly P/N 300 and is comprised of the Barrel (P/N 301), the Whelps (P/N 029), the Chocks (P/N 030 and 031), and the retaining pin assembly (P/N 303).
Barrel (P/N 301)
The barrel, while made from a single piece of timber, has a varying cross section. At the top it is square, the mid-portion is ten-sided, and the lower part is circular, with a stepped section for the gasket. The retaining pin assembly is also cut from the same piece of stock. All of these cross-sections are achieved using a combination of the lathe and the mill.
 
It all starts with a square blank. The length of the blank needs to be long enough for a little extra length for work holding, but short enough that it will fit in the mill mounting arrangement (seen later).
 
Rather than mounting the (not-quite) square blank in a four-jaw chuck and leaving the extra length square-ish in section, I opted to mount it between centres and turn the entire length, which would subsequently allow me to mount it in a three-jaw chuck. Here is the start of the process.
 

 
Once the entire length was turned down to the maximum diameter of the barrel, the narrower sections for the gasket and the part that will go through the Capstan Step were turned down.
 

 
The part was then removed from the lathe and inserted in a three-jaw chuck, which was mounted on the mill rotary table, which was attached to a right-angle mount. The “tail” end was supported using an adjustable tailstock holder. Here is the overall set-up, which facilitated milling of the ten-sided section and the square top section. In this photo all of the milling has been completed.
 

 
All of that sounds easy, and it is if you pay attention to correct set-up of your mill – which I failed to do on the first attempt. It had been quite a while since I had used the mill and I simply forgot some of the basics. After a failed first attempt, I started over and this time spent the necessary time to align the rotary table in both the Y and Z axes, and to align the tail-stock holder properly with the chuck. A little bit of fiddling to be sure, but really the only way to ensure that your final product will be what you intended, within the tolerances you intended.
 
The part was left in the chuck and the chuck removed from the rotary table and returned to the lathe for the next operation. After using a 1/8” centre drill to start the hole, a regular 1/8” drill bit was used to drill through the excess material, through what would become the retaining pin assembly, and into the base of the capstan body. This departs slightly from Toni’s drawing and is a little bit of a “cheat”, but was the easiest way to ensure that the holes for the retaining pin aligned perfectly.
 

 
The main body was then separated from the retaining pin assembly and cut roughly to length at the top (square) end. The main body was then reversed in the chuck and the square end cut down to final length by a series of facing cuts on the lathe. Similarly, the retaining piece was cut to rough length with a hand saw and then re-inserted in the chuck and trimmed to final length with another series of facing cuts. After test-fitting the assembly, I found that the retaining piece needed to be significantly shorter than shown in the drawings in order that it not extend below the deck beams. This was a simple fix – the piece was marked to a new final length directly from the deck beams and re-inserted in the lathe for another series of facing cuts.
 
A piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod was cut to length for the retaining pin (P/N 028) and epoxied into the retaining piece (P/N 027). Here is a picture of all three pieces prior to gluing the retaining pin in place.
 

 
The Whelps are next….

Photos 

Post Fifty-two
 
Great Cabin modification
With the Qtr galleries now in place I can move onto an area of the build that excites my interest, the fitting out of the Great cabin.
Chris’s design lends itself to this type of Navy Board style conversion, but is perhaps less relevant if the Qtr deck is to planked over and the model fully rigged.
Having said that I would probably have done it anyway.
 
Again I will be using Chuck’s Winchelsea example as a guide.

This shot from Chuck’s wonderful build shows a typical arrangement altho’ with Sphinx the head is octagonal and of smaller proportions.
 
There are drawings of the Rudder cover and bench arrangements in the Pandora book, good for dimensions, but not a good fit for layout.
The first task is to create the internal framing to support the cill and internal horizontal planking.

1794
Small sections of 4x4mm square stock are used for this and fit between the vertical stern framing just below the window frames.
For the internal planking I am using 4mm x 0.8mm Pearwood. Strip.

1798
This continues down the stern frames to the deck allowing for the rudder head space and cover.
 
I have cut the octagon shaped cover from a section of square stock Walnut, hollowed out to fit over the rudder head.
The octagonal Rudder Head cover, which scales to a diameter of 30” (12mm) and a height of 35.3” (14mm) sits between the central stern frames.

1804

1807
I am constrained in the actual positioning of the cover by the position of the Rudder head and stern post, and this will ultimately determine the layout of the bench and other fittings.

1800
I think I am likely to have more than one nibble at producing the cover, my preference is for Boxwood with Pearwood mouldings.

1808
If I can’t get the Octagonal cover to work I may have to follow Chuck’s example of a rectangular box which would give me more leeway.
 
Before I do further work on the cover I need to see about the bench arrangement.
The bench seat scales to a depth of 15” (6mm) and a height of 20” (8mm)
 
Without a formal plan to work to a lot of trial and error will be involved, and I expect to be faffing around with this set-up for a while yet.
 
B.E.
17/12/21

 

Chapter 4 work has begun.
The 6 false deck parts have been installed, then the filler pieces for the hawse holes were put in.
 

I glued the parts and there are still a few parts to be done.






 

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

My Longboat is now complete! The finishing touches were applied today – some rope coils, the oars, grapnel and final fixing to the base. For added security, I used a 1/16” brass rod as a locator pin between the pedestal stands and the base, secured with epoxy. So here are the final photos. You will note the date on the stand says 2019….only two years late….
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I'd like to thank you all for the kind comments and likes along the way, and a special thanks to Chuck for his ongoing support and advice throughout this build. Despite the false start and need to start over, I have enjoyed this little build immensely.
 
I'll see you for the next one...

My Longboat is now complete! The finishing touches were applied today – some rope coils, the oars, grapnel and final fixing to the base. For added security, I used a 1/16” brass rod as a locator pin between the pedestal stands and the base, secured with epoxy. So here are the final photos. You will note the date on the stand says 2019….only two years late….
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I'd like to thank you all for the kind comments and likes along the way, and a special thanks to Chuck for his ongoing support and advice throughout this build. Despite the false start and need to start over, I have enjoyed this little build immensely.
 
I'll see you for the next one...

Grant - I want to know about you seizings? I look closely at your photos, and they are very clean. and you have double seizing on each line. Very nice! I am right now finishing my main rigging and boom. I hope to finish the Gaff tomorrow. But I am trying to learn from others on the rigging. you photos are especially clean and very useful. thank you!

Grant, Yves, NiwotWill, turangi - thanks.  The house seems a bit emptier but we're doing OK.
 
John - The "end bedlogs" comprise the four boards identified by arrows pointing to the lowest and uppermost.  That dimension can be taken off the plans.  You cut one piece to represent the four boards.  The "side bedlogs", that look like combs, are seen end-on in the left-hand diagram on the plan - that gives you the height, which is roughly twice the thickness of the frames.  They are cut to sit tightly between the end bedlogs.
 
I think I spent hours poring over the plans and photos of other ECB builds as I built the well.  It's a tricky area.  The photos in posts 9 and 11 should give you a good idea of how I put it together.  Hope this helps!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Wot ‘e said!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!

Just stunning Gary. As others have noted, it is only when one sees the last photo with your glasses next to it, that the scale can be truly appreciated. Bravo Sir!