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Posts posted by Ian_Grant
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If the screws' blades are twisted in opposite directions, then they need to turn in opposite directions to propel the boat in the same direction ie forward or backward. Yes, just reverse the wires on one motor. Note - you may find on the water that when you push the throttle stick in what you conceive to be "forward" the boat goes backward. Unless your transmitter has servo-reversing you'll then need to reverse the wires on both motors.
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4 hours ago, GeorgeKapas said:
Thank you Ian! Oh well, my unorthodox builds are still a bit of a way to go to become masterpieces hahaha 😅
Respectfully disagree, considering your outstanding Mahmudiye and Venetian galley builds.......
- mtaylor, GeorgeKapas and Keith Black
- 3
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Good to see you back, Bob.
Yes, NiMH cells in theory are 1.2V so your 6-packs should give you 7.2V.
However, they do charge up to a slightly higher voltage. When taken off the charger they're usually around 1.4V, or 8.4V for your six-packs, as you observed. Does it matter? It doesn't matter for the batteries; this is normal behaviour. They should drop slightly after a few hours off the charger. What about your ESC and motors? It probably doesn't matter (I think you have brushed motors?) although they will burn a little more power since more current flows with the higher voltage. I think you got your stuff from "Big Bob"? - if so he will have chosen compatible components, knowing the characteristics of NiMH.
In use the pack voltage should drop to 7.2V fairly quickly.
Looking forward to the maiden video from the pond! She's a beauty.
Regards,
Ian
- Ryland Craze and bcochran
- 2
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Gee, I was looking forward to the masting and rigging on this magnificent model.......
- Siggi52, mtaylor, FriedClams and 1 other
- 4
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Another masterpiece in progress!
- mtaylor and GeorgeKapas
- 2
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She was a lovely ship as were all the steel windjammers. I was working on a Heller plastic "Preussen" 5-master until I interrupted it to try my first RC build in 40 years but I hope to finish "Preussen" this winter.
Then I want to make an RC square rigger. Reading about Neville Wade's many sailing models (including one based on Herzogin Cecilie) makes me want to build a 4-master. However, I was thinking of ordering Underhill's drawings of L'Avenir instead since she was a slightly smaller ship and so would be slightly larger scale.
Looking forward to seeing your HC restored to her full glory!
- mtaylor, Keith Black and Mirabell61
- 3
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12 hours ago, thibaultron said:
Fine Scale Modeler just published a Figure Painting special Issue. It has been about a month, but it may still be available.
Yes, I saw that in Chapters. Incredible painting job on a small bust of Napoleon even including his five o'clock shadow.
Model painting has come a long way since I made plastic airplanes as a kid; as far as I can see the typical model now has about 15 spray coats of paint for various purposes.
- Desertanimal, mtaylor, GrandpaPhil and 2 others
- 5
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Missed this build originally but now I'm on it. Wonderful!
- mtaylor and Glen McGuire
- 2
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You're planning full sails? Wow!
- mtaylor and Glen McGuire
- 2
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Really looking forward to this!
- mtaylor, Glen McGuire and PvG Aussie
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2 hours ago, Hubac's Historian said:
Hi Ian - I think the lower wale is also above water in post #103, but it is an abbreviated quarter view.
Thanks Marc; looking back I see it is the Monarche whose wale is underwater amidships, not the DR.
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I'm late to this party but wanted to add my congratulations on the very nice final model! She looks great in her display case!
I admire your determination to overcome this old model's issues and look forward to your next build.
Ian
- Old Collingwood and Canute
- 2
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You'll have to try harder - I had mine for 34 years before starting her. 😊 It's a common story among Heller Victory builders.
Good luck with the kit, and are you aware:
- of all the kit shortcomings?
- of the best book to guide you through the rigging?
- that brass etch parts are now available to enhance the build?
If not, all this and more can be found in Heller Victory build logs, here.
Looking forward to your build log!
Ian
- Baker, mtaylor and Keith Black
- 3
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I can never in my ignorance pick out in the photos what you are discussing in text, nonetheless I am enthralled by the complexity of this build. Would love to see it first hand in water. Congratulations and keep up the amazing work!
- Javelin, Glen McGuire, mtaylor and 2 others
- 5
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A good while since I posted. We were away a couple of weeks hiking in various canyon national parks at the corner where Utah/Nevada/Arizona all meet. Great trip which we hugely enjoyed given terrain which was like nothing we'd ever seen.
Here are a couple of shots taken at Bryce Canyon. There are various trails which go down and wander among the hoodoos, each of which ends with a climb back up to the rim! One day there was snow, 0 deg C, so the family opted out but I had a great hike; muddy at first but tee-shirt warm at the bottom.
And here is a fun photo taken at the trading post near Bryce Canyon. We will hang it next to a similar western-themed sepia shot taken when the kids were four and eight.
Now back to the ship. I finally painted the bottom and the main wales black, actually "Dark Secret" from Home Depot which I would liken to Humbrol "Tank Grey". It was a relief to finally see the seams between the various small pieces of plywood skin disappear. The oars and mechanisms have been removed to allow mods. I want to make the lower oar blades the same increased size as those of the upper oars; shorten the upper oars by 1/2 inch; elongate the mounting holes of the upper oar beams to allow adjustment relative to the lower oars.
I had a brief panic about NiMH batteries. Way back at the start of this project, I looked around and saw NiMH 5-cell "packs" at 6V and thought, ok, we're good to go with 6V analog servos. But recently I read that a 5-cell NiMH pack charges to something over 7V but soon drops to 6V when loaded. Consulting with the Hitec technical support line yielded the info that it's fine; the analog servos will be fine.
Now I've been looking for a suitable battery pack and charger. I put my ammeter at the battery when rowing in water and was surprised to see it only draws about 3/4A whereas I'd been expecting maybe 2 or 3 amps. I have my eye on a pack and charger but haven't ordered yet.
I also have the bigger resin-printed ballistas from my brother. He is now tasked with printing the rudders for this thing in transparent resin, which I really need quite soon in order to progress further.
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Wow, those planks are going to look awesome when sanded...........👍
- mtaylor, FriedClams, Keith Black and 1 other
- 4
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Good on them for promoting recycling. Our local dump does not allow you to pick up anything someone else left, for some reason.
- Roger Pellett, mtaylor, Keith Black and 3 others
- 6
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"Pretty good"?
At this scale, it's incredible! Or any scale really.
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Nice work! Always happy to see an RC build!
- mtaylor, Keith Black and MAGIC's Craig
- 3
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Marc, in your #103 DR's wale is under water; in this stern view it's well above. Colour me confused.......🤔
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Interesting that the Dauphin Royal has her main wale completely underwater amidships. Final nail in the coffin of Heller's way-too-low etched waterline on SR.
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Oh Eric, I have no idea what is accurate. Best see what Marc thinks. 🙂
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Wow Eric, you are really going to the wall on this model! I'm taking notes for when (if?) I get around to mine.
1956 Chris-Craft 54' Constellation by bcochran
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
Is the ESC one of the type where one must power on with throttle at "stop", then move stick/wheel to full ahead then full reverse?