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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Thanks for your detailed answer. One reason I asked was because I remember the hassle of trying to plane & sand the concave interior of a cedar strip canoe I made years ago 😬- 454 replies
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- Union Steamship Company
- Stepcraft 840
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Out of interest, what is the final thickness for the lower hull? I guess you are leaving the inside "stepped"?
- 454 replies
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- Union Steamship Company
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Something along the lines of this?? https://www.amazon.ca/SAILFLO-Pressure-Diaphragm-Caravan-Marine/dp/B0714BYP4N/ref=asc_df_B0714BYP4N/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292994045641&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=951410644785312914&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000682&hvtargid=pla-573486198452&th=1
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Bill, she's looking great! keep up the good work! Happy modelling' Ian
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I have no specific knowledge of these sheets, but the original aft position for the bollard makes sense to me because it leaves enough length of rope for several men to keep it taut as a crewman behind them belays the slack end on said bollard. Or, as you say, they could stop it at the fairlead then belay to the forward bollard. See the following video; the woman stands on the rope at the fairlead at about 1:55. Also, the Portuguese re-rigged her as a barquentine in which case she would not have had a cro'jack. So maybe they moved the bollard forward for some other purpose. For what it's worth, my ancient Revell CS has the bollards aft. By the way, your model is magnificent! Especially as a first build.....
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- cutty sark
- mantua
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Gregory, are you in the USA? Maybe it's ok in that direction. Thanks for mentioning Crafty Sailor in Calgary - I never heard of them before, LOL. Their rope certainly comes in many sizes! Will keep them in mind from now on.
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Beautiful travellers! And ship, of course....😉
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One thing I have run into several times is excessive shipping fees from USA to me in Canada. I don't know why USPS is so expensive into Canada. For example, when I wanted to buy a Heller "Preussen" kit, it was significantly cheaper to pay postage from France than from Connecticut. I could drive to Connecticut in a day 🤔. Books too. I have ordered several ship books from the UK instead of the USA for the same reason. And small parts. It's often cheaper for me to order from Model Dockyard or CMB in the UK, than from say MS in the USA. Just sayin'
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Kevin, looks much like the thread and bobbins that came with my Cutty Sark and Constitution kits, in the 70's. Could it have acquired the green tinge over time for some reason?
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Hi Kevin, I used Amati thread. They have a larger size range, which is needed for things like shrouds and the main- and fore-stays. The thread cost a bit, but with brass etch, wood blocks, and deadeyes to buy already, you just tense your stomach muscles and pay up 😃 Great work on your Cutty Sark!
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HAHA!! I love the little animation; he even pauses to give the can a shake LOL.
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Looks very nice. Love the dog kennels! 🐕
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Kevin, your woodwork looks great! Awesome painting.....
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Marc - To be honest I haven't actually looked at the blocks in my SR; mostly the sprues are still in the plastic bags. I was just assuming that they are similar to those provided in the Victory. If they are, and if you like, I could send you my Victory blocks for postage.
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I haven't started mine yet, not will I for years, but one thing that bothers me about the deck area is the smooth featureless inside face of the bulwarks. I plan to add some evergreen strips to jazz it up a bit by adding some depth and shadows. I see the model referred to above also has no ladder to access the upper poop deck, which has been discussed in the forum too. How did they get up there? There seems to be a ladder just lying on this model's poop, or is that a skylight? Another thing that surprises me is Heller's arrangement of SR's crosstrees vis-a-vis the top- and topgallant masts. It just looks odd to me.
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Daniel, great to see you starting on a non-Victory kit! Love the guns. Looking forward to seeing it develop into another masterpiece.
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- Revell
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All standing rigging (except stays and backstays on the royal) complete on mizzen and jigger masts. There sure are a lot of backstays on these steel ships - at hounds, fixed yard bands, and mast caps as well as all the usual backstays. No wonder they could drive them so hard. I added the forward-most boat on each side as they are now behind a wall of backstays. I decided to tie on the upper braces terminating at the mizzen bulwark pins after all; these can be seen coiled in the first pic, emerging between the mizzenmast shrouds/backstays. I will now do this at each mast in turn before adding its backstays, for access reasons. It came to bother me that the wheelhouse windows were empty cavities whereas all the skylight ports are painted a sky blue, so I managed to pry off the wheelhouse roof. Plan is to paint some styrene sheet sky blue and glue on inside the walls then reapply roof. Sadly my sky blue paint has dried up so off to the hobby shop, sometime........you can see some sheets lying to port of the wheelhouse with blobs of what I thought was the correct paint but it was too green.
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Bill, you're just flying through this, as usual. Looking good!
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I'm a little disappointed that no one mentioned the - gasp - plastic Heller Victory. It is hands down the most accurate kit of Victory on the market. At 1/100 it is a reasonable size for detail without taking up too much floor space, and there are seven sheets of brass etch available to enhance the build. See the several build logs on the forum. Just sayin' 🙃 Edit: Thought I would add a shot of mine on the bench just after completion.
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Twahl, looks like I get to be the first one to pull up a chair and follow you. Great start, with gunport lid rope holes drilled out! Molded all in one colour? First time I ever heard of that. Must be new. Or maybe not so new, I bought my kit with some parts molded in a vivid red in 1982 but didn't start it for decades. I enjoyed your comment about your wife not tracking your expenditures, for now 😄. I painted mine before they decided that she was painted wrong so mine is yellow ochre. It's your model so you should do whatever pleases you. You mentioned you have Longridge. He gives rope and block sizes for each rigging line in his text. Note that he follows the marine custom of giving rope size in circumference. All you have to do is divide each mention of a rope by 100 x PI. Or you can PM me your email address, if you like, and I can send you a spreadsheet I made with all the rigging line and block scale sizes. Bill and Kevin took a copy but don't know if they really used it 😕. I compiled it to save me flipping through the book all the time. Good luck with your build! I will enjoy reading your log, as with all other Victory logs.
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Mr. Midshipman is the first in the series, chronologically (they were written out of order, amazingly enough).
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Yes, I believe I glued two blocks together and tied them at top, middle, and bottom, as you say.
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Bill, that's right. Keep going! By the way I was just looking through my copy of "last of the Windships" to see if there was a photo of how the boats were lashed down and I came across this shot of someone ascending the futtock shrouds. God knows how he got his right foot onto the top; my gangly knees would be a serious hindrance! No safety harness of course.............🤔
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So did I. Looking forward to reading it; hoping it will help me decide how to configure my SR's stern and 1/4 balconies (when I get to it). I opted for the cheapest delivery from Chicago and the quoted receiving date is mid June (!!?). I could walk to Chicago and back with it in that time. There's something about USPS and Canada, it's fabulously expensive and/or slo-o-o-ow.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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