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Ian_Grant

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Everything posted by Ian_Grant

  1. Ian_Grant
    Bill, if you get down there you must see Zion National park. It's like nothing we had ever seen, even though we just drove through it on a loop from Vegas. Promised ourselves to hike there someday. Sorry to digress from the ship, Tom! You seem to be a fast worker like Bill; he has nearly done the standing rigging after 11 months whereas most people take years to build this. Took me five. 😀
  2. Ian_Grant
    That would be ideal. My brother has a PLA printer; not sure I could drill and tap PLA without it cracking. Maybe I could prototype it in PLA, finalize it, then get my local machine shop to CNC eighty out of aluminum for me, including a tapped hole for a grub screw. Now that would be awesome! In fact, I can cut aluminum with my tablesaw/router using carbide teeth/bits. I'm sure I could jig up something to drill the holes repeatably....Thanks mtaylor!
  3. Ian_Grant
    Well no, that only occurred to me after; the 1/3 came to mind from 18th century ships. I expect wire, being stronger for a similar strain, will be smaller than a rope shroud so the lanyards will be a bigger ratio. I'm sure Longridge's Cutty Sark book must detail this, if it's anything like his book on Victory.
  4. Ian_Grant
    Yes, but the circumference and diameter vary in proportion. Longridge's "1/2 circumference" equates to "1/2 diameter" too. 😃
  5. Ian_Grant
    I built a jig to measure the force required from a sweep servo. It consists of 20 oars in a single tier as shown: The clamps at the ends allow adjustment of the "gunwale" position to change the ratio of the oar inboard loom length to total length i.e. the "gearing" of the oars. I just cut a flat on the ends of the oar shafts. Rubber bands hold the blades in place, allowing me to try different blade sizes. I slapped some "Helmsman" spar varnish on them. The plan now is to borrow/steal a spring fish scale and use it to pull the oar looms to measure the force. Still the cheap screw connections. For the actual ship I will use u-channel from Servocity to hold the oar ends. This channel is drilled at 8mm intervals. I will space oars every 5th hole, so 32mm apart. The upper tier will use the "3rd holes" in their beam to place them centred between oars in the lower tier. I was thinking of 3D printing a better oar attachment to allow them to pivot nicely in the u-channel. Something like this which I drew in TinkerCAD: The small hole is for an M4 machine screw which passes through the sides of the u-channel. The large hole is for the oar shaft to glue in. Disadvantage is that once glued in I cannot remove an oar from the boat, through the thole hole. I even contemplate making brass oars, then I can solder the blades in and solder a square tube at the inboard end; in this case the larger hole in the fitting would be square, obviously, and I can perhaps drill another hole to pin the shafts into the fitting and allow oar removal. The u-channels themselves will simply be hinged to the beam to allow them to tilt as the beam moves up and down. I have decided to use Servocity T-beam extrusions and mini v-rollers to mechanize the vertical movement, instead of round shafts and linear bearings. A bit cheaper, plus I can space the v-rollers at whatever distance whereas there are only two choices for length in linear bearings. That's all for now. Eager to see what kind of force is needed!
  6. Ian_Grant
    I think the simple rule of thumb is lanyards are 1/3 the size of the shroud or so. I see, though, that Longridge mentions 11" lower shrouds with 5-1/2" lanyards in the case of "Victory" at least; seems a bit overkill since the strain in the lanyard is divided by six....
  7. Ian_Grant
    Oh, I meant that the backstays were not done at all at the time I did the ratlines, but go ahead........
  8. Ian_Grant
    Couldn't recall what I did so I looked through my old pic files. I definitely did the ratlines with the topmast backstays just dangling, aft of the masts.
  9. Ian_Grant
    Bill, in the case of the lower mast head there are no backstays and the stay passes around the sum total of the clinched shrouds. As on your model. In the case of the topmast head, the stay similarly passes around the the sum total of the clinched backstays and shrouds. See Plan 9. The first photo is incorrect in having the stays buried under the backstays. Plan 9 has a nice inset drawing on sequence at mast head too. Finally, I notice in your pic that the mice are dark. You decided to paint the pearls?
  10. Ian_Grant
    I'd love to see some pics of these..................
  11. Ian_Grant
    For a moment there I thought you were going to try to rig the guns on the ship....Haha...now that would be a real miracle...
  12. Ian_Grant
    Agree with Daniel about the 5 sizes. For example, the 18" fore stay is not quite as large as the 19" main stay, but at scale 1.6mm is good for both. Same goes for blocks. Each available block size must cover a small range of actual block sizes.
  13. Ian_Grant
    In scale, the fore and main stays are 1.6mm, their preventers are 1.3mm. Fore and main topmast stays 0.75mm, preventers 0.5mm. Main and fore shrouds 1.0mm, topmast shrouds 0.5mm. Anchor cable was 27 inches in real life, which is 2mm at scale. Keep up the great work!
  14. Ian_Grant
    Kevin, I love the cat head on the cathead. Checking my old CS, there's nothing there, as you know. I would truly like to build another Revell CS and correct the deadeyes & lanyards at least, and rig proper shrouds, but I doubt there are enough years to get to it. 😢
  15. Ian_Grant
    Man, that's a lot of future work! The Heller Victory alone is a years-long effort for most.....happy modelling!
  16. Ian_Grant
    Bill, it might just be the camera angle, but it looks like your bunt lines are going through the double blocks below the sheave instead of above it, at least on the starboard side. The jeers and sling look good!
  17. Ian_Grant
    Bill, not sure what reference books you have. I don't have any simple diagrams. Longridge plans 8 and 9 are pretty good for all the blocks near the centres of lower and topsail yards. Also plan 7 "Running Rigging", although it takes getting used to, shows all the blocks mounted on yards and positions of footrope stirrups etc. But you need to know what you're looking at e.g. the two buntline blocks on a course vs the singles on a topsail yard. It takes some flipping between plan 7 and the other zoomed-in drawings. Sorry!
  18. Ian_Grant
    I tend to put on backstays and corresponding stays (ie at same level of mast) at the same time. That way you can tension them all and lock down the position of the mast at that level. Then move up to the next level.
  19. Ian_Grant
    The usual thing is to have small-value capacitors across the motor leads, and from each lead to motor case "ground", to suppress RF radiating from the motor. At least in the case of brushed motors.
  20. Ian_Grant
    Gee, I've been to Strasbourg twice but didn't know to go and see those cannons. Wife and kids wanted to see the astronomical clock mainly, which I had told them about from my first visit, as a bachelor on a bike trip. Your guns look fantastic!!
  21. Ian_Grant
    Brings to mind the Monty Python skit about the fellow contacting an advertising agency because he has "a quantity of string" to sell. He speaks to one of the partners, a Mr. Wapkaplet, about selling the string which amounts to 122,00 miles. Difficulty is that the entire quantity is in 4 inch lengths (I think it was 4, might have been 6). Mr. Wapkaplet goes on to brainstorm about how to frame the advertising campaign....... Gotta love Monty Python. But they'd never get away with the stuff they did, on TV these days............
  22. Ian_Grant
    Richard, thank you so much for the detailed data on the stroke! Fascinating to study. I can see I have a lot of coding to do especially in details of the lift motion. I just started building a jig with a reme of 20 oars; plan is to use some sort of strain gauge to measure sweep force required to move blades in water. This equates to rowing with no response from the ship ie no acceleration, which will give me the maximum possible force. I've been looking at the Hitec HS-755MG and HS-805MG giant analog servos, hoping the 755 will serve because the 805 draws half an amp just to move its arm with no load (!). But we'll see what falls out of this next test. I'd rather have a big motor loafing along than a smaller motor labouring, provided the big motor isn't too power hungry. As for the mechanism, I drew up some ideas using servocity structure and motion components. The vertical motion will definitely be linear bearings on 1/2" vertical shafts. My prototype oar attachments were crude, just a flathead screw left a little loose so the oar could tilt. I now plan to mount the oars in a u-channel which allows sweep movement only; the u-channel itself would have to pivot along its axis to allow the lift movement. I considered mounting shafts axially at the ends of the u-channel, said shafts passing through bearings mounted in pillow blocks, but that's a little pricey. The fallback is to simply mount the u-channel on hinges so it can tilt around as the beam moves vertically. Again, thanks for the useful data. I'll need to improve the code defining the stroke shape, for sure. By the way, there is a GPS "shield" for Arduino. Hmmmm....... https://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/sim28-arduino-gps-shield.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlpWOlvS29wIVRCCtBh18uAqKEAQYAyABEgK3LPD_BwE
  23. Ian_Grant
    But where the h-e-double-hockey-sticks does one find film now? 😃
  24. Ian_Grant
    Richard, this is groundbreaking modelling! Poor guy hits the back of his head with every stroke...No wonder they had towels wrapped around the beams in Olympias. I assume by "Mark II design" you refer to another actual ship, and not another model from you? 😀
  25. Ian_Grant
    I laughed heartily when I read that.................😀

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