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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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The 10" leech and buntline blocks on the lower fore and main yards scale to 3/32" on the model, about 2.5mm; not far from the length you used. But have a look at the blocks from "Syren" on my model (below). They're far less bulky for their length. In fact they look exactly like the buntline blocks pictured in Longridge PLAN NO 8. Also note that they're lashed on the front of the yard. My topsail sheet and lift blocks are also less imposing but realistic. I agree with Marc; if you have a collection of these blocks then go down one size perhaps. I don't recall what Kevin made for you.
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Kit Review Seebäderschiff FUNNY GIRL 1973 - HMV - 1/250 - CARD
Ian_Grant replied to ccoyle's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
What a pretty boat! Very nice. By the way Chris, your new user photo is much more dignified and serious, but I still like your previous one. 😉 -
Rob, didn't realize you moonlighted as a hit-man. 😄
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Fantastic! I should have asked you about printing me some Jarvis brace winches......if you ever do a Preussen/Potosi/Passat/Pamir you will be able to improve the kit's offering.😉
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Just a note to myself so I don't lose the figures..... Plotted some more parts in Tinker; in order to have two 30mm linear bearings on a single shaft for separate upper and lower oar beams, the drawer slide bottoms need to be 21mm below water level to prevent the two bearings interfering on the shaft. This allows upper oars to move over a greater range than the lower, while still allowing lower oars to go up to horizontal if required. Shaft length is 95mm.
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Kevin, nice pump! Will this really print in one piece in resin at this scale? I'm impressed! I drew better Jarvis winches for Preussen a while back, but my brother's 3D FDM printer couldn't make a nice job of them. Again, I really like your wood-look painting.
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"...saved me from throwing the mother of all computer generated tantrums" HAHAHA! 😄 Thanks Kevin, I'll take a look at the video.
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I have a wood mold for some unknown part of something I picked up somewhere or other years ago. It reminded me of a bygone era, and my dad.
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Starlight, thank you for the encouragement. When I decided I wanted to do an RC build again I was torn between the ideas of a functioning galley and a square rigged vessel. I thought a galley would be more of an engineering challenge, but boring to use once the novelty wore off; whereas a ship would require less challenging preliminary work but be a constant challenge to sail. I opted for the galley now, and hope to do a square rig later! It's been fun playing with electronics again, and I actually quite enjoyed writing the software. I know now that my code is pretty basic and I'm looking forward to improving the stroke's realism. There's plenty of program memory left in the micro! 😃 Speaking of realism, could they even back-stroke in the real thing?? 🤔 It would be harder to do than when they tried to evade "Talos" in "Jason and the Argonauts" .... love that movie! 😀
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Oh Kevin, I haven't tried 360 at all.......too much of a learning curve, and I get frustrated and angry at computer tools with their idiosyncratic user interfaces. I have better instincts for physical tools and power equipment. At this point as I said I am going to order some parts and do a partial prototype build to check how the vertical movement would function, and just generally what these components are like. LATER EDIT: Parts order placed. My heart nearly stopped when I saw the $US total, never mind in $CDN. I took the two sweep servos back off the order to make it more palatable; after all, who knows, in the end I may decide to give up! As an aside, one of my neighbour's large maple trees was felled in a recent bad storm. Unfortunately it landed on and crushed our above ground pool! Preliminary talks with our insurance informed us that they will only give us a pro-rated value for our admittedly old pool, perhaps as low as 25% 😭. Yes the pool was old, but it was fine and enjoyable and I wish they would just make it good for us. We could be on the hook for several thousand dollars to replace it at the moment, meaning the Admiral might find it of debatable worth. It's mainly me that enjoys it 😳 now that the kids are grown up. That's why I'm a bit sensitive to expenditure at the moment.........
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Had a bit of a brain wave: how about two independent beams for the upper and lower remes? This would allow software to independently control the range of lift motion for each reme of oars, allowing the upper ones to be raised slightly higher without the lower ones necessarily going all the way up to horizontal. I like it! Ideally the vertical shafts could have two shorter linear bearings on them, one for each reme's oar beam. I would modify the interface board and software to add two more output servos for the two new lifts. Potential snag is we now have a long beam mounted on two 1.25" linear bearings more than 2 ft apart; could a single central servo move it up and down without the ends binding? Don't know. I have always had in the back of my mind that perhaps the beams would need servos at each end, so be it. But with four beams that would be eight servos doing the lifting which seems beyond the realm of reasonableness. Or, perhaps, two vertical shafts at each end, the inner pair for the lower oar beam, outer pair for the upper, and all four shafts sporting 2.25" bearings to better resist binding. I am going to order some parts from Servocity to build a partial model, and get a "feel" for how these bearings perform in my scenario. If central lift servos can't work, then back to Plan "A". More to come. Happy modelling.
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I'm a bit late to this build, but very impressed! Between you and Chris I am thinking I should try a card model of some sort; will have to look around to see what appeals. Happy modelling!
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Yes, every time I'm in Lee Valley I am impressed by the apparent quality of the Fein stuff, but the $$$ puts me off. My loss, probably.
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Yes, you need to be concerned about breathing in ultra-fine particles which will enter your lungs. Especially if a model has some exotic tropical wood species. The trick is to collect the dust before it scatters into the air. Have you heard of "suction boards"? Basically you build a box with a perforated top surface and a dust port to connect to some sort of shop vac. Simply sit your piece on the perforated surface and sand away. Dust disappears into the collector before it has a chance to scatter. Of course, this still requires a shop vac but some of the small units are relatively quiet. It must be able to filter sub-micron particles or it will send your collected dust straight back into your room. Hope this helps! Here is an example video:
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Going to be beautiful. May I suggest you add "RADIO" to your title; that way all the RC enthusiasts will pull up chairs. 😀 Looked up Southern Cross Models. I see your 1/72 County class hull is 2.7 meters long !!!!!! RC enthusiasts will definitely want to follow this! Also, that deck and turret look very nice; are you 3D printing parts, or does Southern Cross models work up structure too?
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Good God Bill! So sorry to hear about all that.....hope you both are fully recovered soon! Best Regards, Ian
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Marc, I see you went with a painted figurehead too, as opposed to all gilt. Nice!
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Wait until I get to the ratlines .... 🤪
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While responding to Kevin, I noticed I hadn't posted in a month. Still moving from mast to mast adding backstays. To break the tedium I added the boom and gaffs to the jigger and also installed the cargo boom. The monkey gaff still lacks a pair of guys. Coils of pre-belayed running rigging accumulating. I'm glad I am omitting all buntlines! 😁
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150 euro! I did not pay that but I did have to look hard for one, eventually getting it from France. If you would like to build a Preussen, a cheaper route is to buy a "Cap Horn" 5-mast barque kit and simply convert the jigger to square rig. This less popular kit is a made-up ship that never existed as far as I know but is otherwise identical to the kit Preussen. Kevin, if you go back to post #12 of this log, someone had a kit to sell. Maybe they still do? Or you can build Cap Horn as "Potosi" which did exist in the same Laeisz fleet as Preussen and was in fact handier to maneuver, being barque rigged. Bill Morrison is doing this as mentioned earlier in this log. The hull is about 9" longer than Victory's hull, but their overall lengths are about the same. Preussen is a more compact finished model than Victory, much narrower and shorter. Here is a pic.
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Bruce, thankfully the Preussen lacks deadeyes which is a blessing at her scale. And these big windjammers had no studding sails. I like your Cutty Sark progress, keep up the good work!
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Kevin, thank you for the kind words. Yes, these big steel windjammers are quite picturesque. I especially like the elevated storm gangways, for some reason. And from some of the photos I've seen of these ships in a storm I can see why they were needed! Her hull is about 9" longer than Victory's, but the bowsprit is very much shorter than Victory's. A model of her at 1/100 would be magnificent and fun to build. Yes the scale is smaller, but her rigging is much less intricate than 18th century practice, albeit with everything repeated five times on her five masts which does get a bit tedious. The repetition will get even worse when I start hanging six yards on each mast! I haven't looked for build plans, but a chap named Neville Wade has built an RC model of her so he must have found them somewhere. Here are Neville's ships, not as detailed as some but very pretty on the water. After I get the galley working I'd like to build an RC square rigger next. http://www.cocatrez.net/Water/NevilleWadeShips/index.html https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2205250-Neville-Wade-s-Radio-Controlled-Square-riggers Thanks for the Newby book tips - I'll have a look for them. And do look for "The Last Grain Race" for yourself. It's interesting, vividly written, and funny at times.
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Bill, just thought of the head sail rigging. Granted it's on the axis of the ship but the halliards need to be belayed on deck. You could usefully complete the various downhauls and halyards before moving to yards and other running rigging. In my case I am nearly done the standing rigging on my "Preussen", but in accordance with "The Ian Grant Method of Ship Rigging" all the running rigging is already belayed on deck to prevent a lot of special words while trying to tie off after all the backstays are in. See all the coils hanging over her bulwarks, here. Some from mast bitts, some from bulwark rails, some lower sheets and tacks.
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3D printing is amazing, the way of the future for sure. I can't get over how quiet she is! I last launched an electric RC boat in the 70's using brushed Decaperm motors of the times; you could easily hear the motor whine from shore. I was thinking of maybe refurbishing my old WW I battlecruiser (which last sailed in 1980) with ESC's to replace the rheostat speed controllers but maybe I should change the motors too, having seen this. The Decaperms were geared motors; do you need to add a reduction box for these new brushless motors?
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