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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Rob, I really like your sheet blocks. Tried to make some for my 1/150 Preussen but gave up. I'm just using a pair of copper eyes instead. Not accurate but my audience will not know better 😁. -
Curious as to what material you are using for your sails............🤔
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Silverman, I had never heard of that before, but you are right. I found this video about it.
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Came across this interesting article on servos and allowable torque. I expect the "stall torque" which is all that hobby servo manufacturers seem to specify is the max "intermittent" torque at zero speed. Now wondering if I can pry any info from servo vendors about their "continuous" torque curves, or at the least a derating factor. Hoping I can get through to some sort of applications engineer or even better a designer. https://www.motioncontroltips.com/servo-motor-torque-curve/
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oh yeah, amazon is a rats nest. I've often seen wild ranges when looking for niche books eg ship rigging; how about $15 to over $700 for a particular used book? Vendors are free to ask whatever they like. Caveat emptor.
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In general I paint a coat of a tan colour, then dry-brush a darker colour. For example, Humbrol #103, dry-brush #26, finish with #135 satin varnish. Here is an example on a topmast. Never tried it on metal though.
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Beautiful models! I can't imagine having the energy to build two at once! 😲 In the interest of when (if) I get to my Heller SR build, how did they tie off ropes before belaying pins? One cannot tie a giant knot around say a railing by passing many fathoms of line all around it; how did they ensure rapid release when needed? Just curious.
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Looking good! Don't tell me you made those tiny dividers!!!??
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He's referring to the two cross members, also called cross trees, supporting the platform of the top. The "fore" one is the forward one. These cross members are in turn supported by the trestle trees, which are attached to the mast above the cheeks. See Figs 95-97. You are right, there are other cross trees at the topmast head too.
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The leech lines each use two blocks because they belay aft of the mast and have to go to the yard forward of the mast without fouling anything. Yours are ok.
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That does sound interesting! Working on Preussen for now but I can't get a galley out of my head. I think the sweep servos may be a problem as regards overheating; can't find any torque analog servos with metal case for heatsinking and I've seen too many videos with digital servos whining due to their internal CPU (!!) updating position at up to 400 Hz. Don't want the boat to whine, and digital servos burn more power. A servo with internal 32-bit CPU and 12-bit DAC may be de rigueur in an RC helicopter but seems ridiculous overkill to move oars at 30 strokes per minute......And their prices!! Next summer I want to build a full mock-up to test force required to propel full remes of oars in the pool. Right now I have no idea what torque I need. Starting from full stop would obviously require peak torque, but I could start off at a slower & shorter stroke to limit total power. Also thinking maybe I could buy a plastic analog torque servo and cut a hole in the case next to the motor to get access for metal heatsinking. Not sure if it can be done while leaving all necessary motor supports in place. Only one way to find out! 🤞 Once I know a torque value I can select a servo, buy one, and conduct thermal tests under load with a thermistor attached to case. Definitely need more data.
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Hi Bill, I'm glad you mentioned the bunt lines again as looking at your photos I realized there is a mistake. Each main course bunt line runs from abaft the foremast, through a block below the main top (near its front) from forward to aft then to the buntline block on the yard. They only go through this one block; they don't run aft to another as in your pics. It is only the leech lines which require blocks at front and back of the top. You have too many blocks; see "The Main Top" at top of pg 253.
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Bill, the course leech lines go up more or less vertically from the deck belay point, pass through the under-top blocks from aft to forward, and then to the leech line block on lower yard. See text pg 243 and plan 8 for the fore mast; the main is the same. Yes, the leech lines pass between the shrouds and the futtock shrouds if that is what you mean. They then run to the yard, passing forward of the forward-most lower shroud. As in plan 8 again. Longridge also mentions that the main course leech lines each connect to a single 10" block, to form tackles to reduce the pulling force. For some reason, this is mentioned as only an option for the fore leech lines 😬 You're certainly running rings around me and my "rigging" of Preussen; I can only stand about one hour sessions then I'm done. Still distracted by thoughts of an RC galley 😀, and also spending time keeping active (skated 27 km on the Rideau Canal today ⛸️ Hmmm, no "hockey skate" emoji, I don't wear womens' white figure skates 😁).
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Got mine from Hobby-Lobby.
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Condolences to the family. What a pity Monsieur Saunier did not have the chance to complete his work of art. Comparable to an author passing away part way through writing a masterpiece (think "The Master Mariner Book II"). His family will always wonder what might have been, at the same time as having this magnificent reminder of him.
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Beautiful model!! I notice that no two clocks show the same time. Not functioning?
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Ole, just a thought: for rigging your Passat or any of the windjammers, a good book to have is "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" by Harold Underhill.
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Marc, I'm flabbergasted!!! Viewing your brilliant SR's progress, I just assumed you had built many full-rigged ships in the past! Fortunately, the SR's 17th century rig is nowhere near as complex as the Victory. On the other hand there are all the crow's feet to rig without distorting the stays 🤪. Are you aware of RC Anderson's book to help rig her?
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I know exactly what you mean. I went through the same experience building my Victory while reading Blue Ensign's and Dafi's very informative logs on, all together now: "the old Pete Coleman Victory Modeling Site". Mine wouldn't be a patch on how it did turn out without such inspiration. Even such basic things as the existence of Longridge's book; how ever else would I have discovered it?
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Looking nice. I may have missed it - did you fiberglass cloth the outside of the hull before applying strips etc?
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Robert, On my Heller Victory I could not find black thread of the correct size for the mainstay. I bought natural colour and used black fabric dye to colour it. You could colour the brown thread if its manufacturer is on your approved list.
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She's beautiful! Looks like you cut sheet lead to fit; how did you cut it? I remember trying to saw lead once and it was near impossible. And lead shot is now rare.
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Super super model! I still think it would make a magnificent RC model. Pardon my ignorance on corvettes, but I'd have thought they'd carry as many depth charges as possible. The visible count seems low to me. Were more reloads stored below deck? EDIT Out of curiosity I googled it 🙄 the flower class carried 70. I guess some were below.
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