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Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Hi Bill, those are actually misnamed booms for the main lower studding sails. They attach to the eye and crutch on the main channels as shown in step 28 "Various Assembly" (also shows the boat davits). There should also be booms for the fore lower studding sails however Heller omitted them. They don't seem to attach permanently to the fore channels, probably because attempts to stow them swung back like the main booms would be obstructed by the sheet anchors. I presume they were rigged when needed. I made two (lengths are in Longridge) and lashed them down between the boat skid beams. -
Interesting! Thanks Chris. Boy, that's a slow-moving training video; I can imagine the audience falling asleep in a haze of cigarette smoke.
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Chris......."sky lookouts"? Are those for the lookouts to rest their elbows on while holding binoculars to the sky?
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Festool shop vacuums - a quieter option
Ian_Grant replied to druxey's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I bought a Rigid a few years ago after my old Shop-Vac burned out (again; their motors are junk quality). The Rigid came with a "muffler" which can be plugged into the exhaust port. It makes quite a difference although I think it is still loud. -
Plodding along. I find my tolerable sitting time at this is quite short which does not bode well for a quick finish. Still working on tying lines off at deck level. Pretty tedious. Added shrouds at another mast, and rigged another brace winch just to change things up. Three of these to go, what joy! Main issue is that I want to carry on from my experimental RC galley rowing mechanism (see below) to further testing which will need the pool open, and spring is coming..............
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BIll, I don't think you're too far off the real thing although from books I have the real thing has them a little far apart too.😏
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Wow I'd love to do that.......when I was aboard I wondered what would happen if I just did it......arrested I guess.... During Royal Clipper cruise they provide opportunity to ascend mainmast shrouds but only to the top. As this mast projects from the highest deck on the ship (thus lowest height above deck), and that side of the top is rigged through a lubber's hole as opposed to futtocks, it's not very exciting. Hope the "Cutty Climb" becomes a perennial thing.
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Heller 1/100 HMS Victory - Question on size
Ian_Grant replied to Bill97's topic in Plastic model kits
Dear Prolny -- Just stumbled onto your post. This is pretty much a dead thread with few viewers (no followers); I suggest you post your question as a new topic in this category. Make the title indicate you want to commission a Heller build 😃. -
This article just published in the Toronto Star. Take a bow, plastic modellers! https://www.thestar.com/life/together/people/2022/02/27/model-citizens-hobbyists-explain-why-putting-together-plastic-kits-is-hardly-kids-stuff.html
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So interesting to see this never-seen-before version taking shape! Just out of curiosity Daniel: how many Heller Victory kit hulls do you have? 😃
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Glad to see you're still at it. Three weeks is not a long time compared to my own sporadic updates. 😆
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Hi Bill; I see what you mean in close-up, but realistically no one will ever notice naked eye especially when deadeyes and topmast shrouds, and jeer strops, and the sling are installed in front of them on the completed model. Looks great my friend! My only comment is that the clinches of the shroud pairs should be staggered back as they rise, ie not all be on top of each other. See Plan 8.
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https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/track-marine-archaeologists-searching-icy-antarctic-seas-ernest-shackletons-endurance-180979581/?utm_source=smithsoniandaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20220225-daily-responsive&spMailingID=46458966&spUserID=OTY4MjUzNzkyMTQ3S0&spJobID=2182891929&spReportId=MjE4Mjg5MTkyOQS2
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Andrew also talked about seeing one of their model makers open the trunk of his car, and it was stuffed with plastic model battleships etc, as a source for gun turrets for model spaceships 😄. Another aside - While living down there, he played goalie on a hockey team of Canadian expats. One day Lucas had some NHL goalie come in to save shots while wearing one of those suits with all the sensors for position on them, however they work. Anyway Andrew later got a call from an admin, asking "You play hockey, don't you; do you know a goalie?". Apparently an entire pack of NHL-level goalie sticks was received just for that goalie's session in the suit and he left them all behind. "Do you want them?". Andrew said he was turning cartwheels across the parking lot 😃. Sorry Chris for all the distractions. Back to your card model, which is looking great!
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To quote Winston Churchill, more or less, "This is not the end, or even the beginning of the end, but merely the end of the beginning".
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Kevin, yes Maurice is here (Blue Ensign). Check out his Queen Anne Royal Barge build, and now his Sphinx.
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Wow, nice looking weather! We had freezing rain two nights ago, to the extent that yesterday kids were skating laps around our Crescent on the smooth ice! 😄😄 Great to see, first time ever, I nearly pulled on my skates and joined them. Not great for driving however. Sadly though 🙄, this morning the city truck finally came by spraying salt/sand on the road. Bill, rest assured I would never chastise you for not forming a true splice in 0.85mm thread! I decided on my Preussen to omit even the serving at the shroud centres, albeit it's less visible at 1/150 scale.
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Work proceeding very slowly. Rigged the bowsprit guys and stitched the netting to them, but haven't trimmed the netting yet. Pre-rigged the lower sheets and tack ends to winches or bitts. Anyone building Preussen would be wise to attach these before adding masts and walkways. The winches are tucked beneath the pin rails and were painful to reach. Also had to drill four missing sheave holes in the hull. Example tack leading from sheave to bitts and coiled on deck. Sheet leading from sheave to winch and coiled on deck. The winch drum end is that little green thing to the right of the first two "eyescrews". Speaking of the drums, they taper towards their ends and I remember thinking that would be a problem. It was, as the threads persist in slipping off the end when one attempts to wind them onto the drum. Future builders - recommend attaching a slightly larger disc to their ends to retain threads. Now thinking about belaying brace trim lines, which need triple sister blocks that Heller does not mention. Made them from sets of three 15/0 seed beads glued to a short strip of evergreen. That's one poking up just to the right of the eyescrews. Not a near replica of reality but good enough. Now trying to decide what to do to associated belaying pins for these brace ends to attach (existing pins are mere bumps). Also decided to add the shrouds to a masthead just for something different to do. In the interest of not taking years on this build like on Victory I did not serve the centres or clinch them round the masthead. I simply tied each pair in a clove hitch around the masthead. Good enough at this scale, or as Victor J says "close enough for jazz".
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It was always my brother's dream from elementary school to work on Star Wars movies. He and his friend in grade six made a stop-action super-8 star wars film, including a bar fight scene where in the blink of an eye everyone fell to the floor 😃. After graduating as a computer animator, he did indeed join Lucas in time to work on the later three movies (chronologically the first three). His claim to fame is that he was lead animator for Jar-Jar Binks, the least popular star wars character ever 😆. As he says, "I didn't write the dialogue, I just had to deal with animating his flowing mane as he ran around corners!". Personally I found the newer movies so terrible I didn't even watch the third......don't tell Andrew...... After this he worked on several other movies, such as Hulk & Pearl Harbour. He emailed me one time to say that he had seen the model battleships for Pearl Harbour leaving their model shop on flat-bed trucks for the studio, and if only I could have been there....😒.
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Bill, You've been pretty quiet lately! Still busy I see. Here is an easy way to fake the swifter shrouds using a single thread for both. The gaps represent the thread passing underneath itself. A little judicious wiggling and tugging and you can get the two to be diametrically opposed, or any any relative position you like. I got this originally from Blue Ensign, on the OPCVMW ("Old Pete Coleman Victory Modelling Website").
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