reklein

In my 30 years of living in Sitka Alaska I witnessed several canoes being made. As a municipal employee I even got to repair a 45 foot red cedar ceremonial canoe. There was always ome difficulty in steaming the canoe to widen it. They always seemed to crack along the chines. Other than that finding a decent log was the hardest part. This last canoe was a  spruce log. and is about 25 feet long. Again I will try to get permission from the OP to post his pics as he photo documented  the project from the beginning. Since I posted the first link they have successfully launched and paddled around a little. I think the canoe was commissioned by the Nat. Park service.

Sorry Wefalck, I should have thought of that. I'll see If I can get permission from the OP to post his pics. It really is a remarkable project.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sitkaalaskapeople/ here's a link to the canoe picks. You might have to scroll abit.

Foa an actual dugout canoe build go to Sitka Alaska People and look at Rich McClears pics of a 20+ foot dugout canoe from a Sitka spruce log. A very interesting project by two native carvers.

If  you're using round stock about all you can do is mark the center of the ends so you won't get banana shaped spars. Also maybe the middle of the length to keep the tsper even. The best way to taper is to start with square stock and taper first then plane or whittle to octagon and from there sand to round being careful to preserve the center on the ends.'

I'm not normally interested in cars but your build here is OUTSTANDING !.  Good Job.

Find a WOODCRAFT STORE ,they have a really good selection of woodworking books in all phases. I was just in one last tuesday

and spent 15-20 minutes just looking through the titles.

Thats looking very good indeed. Thanks for the tips. I have a 1-200 Hood with the fancy PE kit to build after I finish my Missouri..

further progress on the Missouri. The second photo shows how I made the 5" mounts positionable.

This kit was meant to be radio controlled so the fidelity to scale is a little crude. Kinda of what the Airplane guys called "standoff scale". Still it's fun to try and improve the kit. I have a PE kit by gold metal models. I'm not going to R/C it, I've got other projects to get to ,like a 1/200 Hood.

Work continues laminating .020 styrene to balsa substructure. There were some lost parts so I just fabricated form styrene alone.

Was just thinking the other day that I would like to see a sub model with a full interior. This is a great representation, inaccuracies be damned. It has the feel of a real sub. I'm totally glad I didn't have to serve on one. The only one I've ever been on is the one ,the U-505 I think in Chicago about 50 years ago. Great model keep up the good work.

Depends on whether you're building a skiff or a battleship. Personally I like 1/200 scale for larger subjects. Something so the model comes out under five feet. For sailing ship 1/64 is a nice size or even 1/96 like in the case of the Revell Constitution. Either way ,have fun.

The rock painting is very clever, but the idea of covering the base for your model with a chart is OUTSTANDING!.

Welcome from Lewiston ID, Good luck on your quest for a ship to build.  Bill

Yes,you need to get back to it. This is a really nice looking build.      Bill

Stores like Jo-Anns and Michaels in the US have tons of colored paper that should go through your printer nicely without damaging the printer.

I wish you wouldn't post stuff like this. I'm trying to thin my own collection.😏

There are some resin kits in there,for example some Westerfield kits. Most are ancient Ambroid,and LaBelle kits. A lot of Cambell structure kits. I'm trying to sell off a lot of these as I'm getting old and running out of time and also am too fickle to stick with them long enough to build them all. Thankyou all for the likes on my build.    Bill

Laminating plastic to topside bulkheads. I will also put 1/16th scribed decking on. still too wide a plank for 1/16th scale but will "read" OK. I'll save the super detail for the Hood coming up later this winter.

 Lou, I'm just laminating plastic to the topsides. I did a bluejacket Liberty ship that way and it worked out great. It will be the best way to get a steel looking finish. Will also use for decks where appropriate and Northeastern scribed decking for the decks. I have a Toms models works PE set for the railings etc..  Bill

Here's a pic of the topsides. Lots of little nooks and crannies. Lots of football time to go here.

Work continues on the Mo. Hull is now painted with gun fairings and hawse pipes cut in. Now for the superstructure. My intention is to cover the very crude wooden construction with sheet styrene to better simulate steel.

Try a company called Clover House. They specialize in wire and sheet metal products for the modeler along with dry transfer sets for Model Railroaders. Oh and chain,they also have fine chain. Check online.

Ted, for some good views just do a search on Bing for Bismarck drydock and you'll find all sorts of pics. I'm doing a 1/192 Missouri and found thast Bing is a great source of pics.    Bill