reklein

You could always just epoxy the glue bottle to the work bench. (maniacal laughter) Certainly is a cool looking tool though.

I was looking back on your discussion of finishes on yellow cedar and I asked my cousin who still fishes out of Sitka about its use as planking on the wooden Salmon Trollers there. Yellow cedar isn't used that much for planking as it doesn't hold finishes well. It has a natural oil in it that rejects most finishes as you found out. If left to itself the cedar will naturally darken as I found out when a retailer of one of my carved paddles found out when he put a sticker on one. When removed by the customerer a lighter colored spot he shape of the sticker was left and the sale was rejected. It sure it pretty as model planking though. Your work is superb BTW. Another interesting thing about cedar is that its bark can be stripped in the spring of the year and is cleaned and cut into long flexible strips that  is then woven into durable baskets.

Don't mean to hijack your thread if you like I will delete these after you see them.

Keep in mind this was to be burned. The figure head was removed and given to the deceased 's widow before burning.

Heres a sideview before the sail was added

My funeral Viking ship was generic in design. Just looked like a Viking ship with high ends and wide shallow hull. It floated quite well. Looked really cool with the sail burning. All the oars made great kindling. Ill try to find some electronic pics.

Turned out pretty good, Ya got a fine touch. Like Snoopy catching bubbles.

Nice, but, I think I would have left it partially attached the main piece of wood so as to have a handle while carving the piece. Then cut it from the stock and finish it.

Glad I could help.I've used that book thru more than one model.

I'd say get ahold of Wolfram zu Mondfelds book on terminology.Its called Historic ship models and published by Sterling. 350 pages of pictures,diagrams and contents.

I once built a Viking ship that was 4 feet long for a simulated Viking funeral. Some of the deceased ashes were placed in the model and then the whole thing was set afire and pushed out into the river. I used 3/4" pine for the keel.1/4" ply for the ribs and what they call end skins for kitchen cabinets for the planking. The end skins are high quality 1/8 inch ply and work very nicely for planking.At the present one can get some very nice 1/8" ply in 4x8 sheets form Home Depot. I have also built a Billings Oseberg ship which was a medium difficulty level. Nice thing about it I didn't have to make a million cannons. Just a lot of shields. Be sure to use the internet to search out detail work. Specially on the shields.

Crazy good modelling Danny. Perfect for someone who likes a large parts count.

I'm not too organizes but I do keep a length of clear tubing over the blades while they're in the drawer. Saves fingers and edges.

While this is on my model railroad,it is marine related. The Fine Scale Model kits are very complete and the plans are spot on. Also the instructions are worth the price of admission. I made the hull about 25 percent larger to offset the height of the tower. I used mostly a shoe dye and alcohol stain for the wood colors. There are also many detail castings in this kit. 

If you red cedar sample is straight grained and cured it will work nicely for planking and decks. It can be carved fairly easily too as that is the primary wood for totem poles and NW coast native art. Be sure to use a mask while sanding and machining the wood as it is an irritant. Also the sanding dust can be irritating to the skin. Yellow cedar trees look similar but the wood is a nice yellow-crème color. It has the same irritants the red cedar does. It is better to carve because straight grained wood is non-splintery and will take detail nicely. While harder  than basswood it doesn't fuzz like basswood when sanded. Yellow cedar best for carving and planking, Basswood best for sheetwood and carving. Red cedar good color and nice for planks and decks. More irritants than the other two.

Always nice to see new blood. You may have thought of something the rest of us haven't. Although, theres a few members who are really sharp, and those are the ones we try to learn from.

You've presented a great set of pics and a great model. You should be very proud. Also wonderful research.

There was a review in the May/June Narrow gauge and shortline gazette. It was favorable but at $400 bucks a little spendy. Works by 40,000 vibes per second of the blade. Does generate a little heat under use,so ventilation should be used. Works well on styrene basswood and card. Good for us old guys with sore hands.

Don't forget Kappler scale lumber . 

Beautiful Steam launches. Keep up with your build. Itll be very satisfying to haave completed it and possibly a heirloom. 

I would also recommend downloading a copy of a conversion table of numbered bits to thousandths and keep it near your workbench.

Now, that's a switch. Usually logs are made into paper. Nice work.

Boxwood is also common in the US for the same reason. My neighbor has a little hedge of them for the past 19 years anyway and they keep them4 feet tall and very bush. Nothing that one could harvest for even very small lumber..

Here in Idaho, Lewiston is technically a seaport even though we are 400 miles inland. Right now at harvest time the grain barges have lost their access to the coast because of cracks found in the locks structure downstream. Also a few years back we got to watch as encircle ments were made and dredge spoils were pumped in to make more land which was ultimately turned into an R/V park. Also clam shell cranes mounted on barges were used to deepen the barge landings. The spoils were loaded into more barges and hauled somewhere unknown to me. All interesting to watch. Meantime the steelhead fish and salmon population is way down

n.