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Posts posted by reklein
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Check out Ken Forans book on building in brass. Everything you need to know about brass. Schiffer books. No financial connection just a good book. Bill
- Bill Hime, thibaultron, mtaylor and 5 others
- 8
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My gut feeling on these smaller boats is that planks might be joined with a backing plate between the ribs instead of on the rib itself. 30 years hanging around wooden fishing boats in Alaska tells me this. Don't really know the rules. I think that a butt in 3 planks would be reasonable and not closer than 6 feet apart longitudinally. Bill
- Canute, mtaylor and model mike
- 3
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Take a look at the Lady Washington on the last page of the amazing photos thread. Some folks only use about a third of the material needed to avoid the bulky square look in a models sail. BILL
- mtaylor, avsjerome2003, Canute and 1 other
- 4
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This is nice work Siggi !. I reall like the stern view in her building stand. Looks like shes sitting in the water. As modelers we don't often get this more realistic more probable view of her as she really was. Bill
- mtaylor, Siggi52, CaptainSteve and 1 other
- 4
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Looks good Jens,I look forward to seeing the pictures of the frames and planking. Bill
Welcome to the forum
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At the risk of sounding like a broken record I will again recommend Vectorcut as a source for Laser cut letters for slightly raised letters. Just put some guidelines lightly in the area you want the letters and Voila! Prepaint them if you like. Bill
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If I'm not mistaken this same Jamestown took part in the Irish potatoe famine relief and was later used to patrol the north pacific and Alaskan coast. Their exist old drawings of her taking on fresh water in Sitka AK and there is a bay named for her there. Bill now living in Idaho
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We have a lot of RO here in north Idaho.Not much good for anything but cover for birds and wildlife in the coulee bottoms and riverbanks. Too coarse in my opinion for model work. Bill
- Canute, mtaylor and avsjerome2003
- 3
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That photo is crazy, Shouldn't be too hard to get a good set of plans and resize em at Staples to the sczle you want. The way most of the European kits come ya have to rebuild or replace kit wood and parts anyway. One of these days I'm gonna start my canadian plans for the Nonsuch. BILL
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You might achieve the effect you want by rigging your model with oversize stunsails instead of something like spinnakers. Depends on the ere you want to model. Bill
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If it were me, I would simply dye the material the color you want, then use the appropriate colored thread to sew with. Apparently the original Tanbark color was from a tree based preservative for cotton canvas sails to protect the material for mold,rot and mildew. Having tried the tea and coffee route I think you'd get better results from fabric dye such as RIT. Bill
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This whole build is NICE !!!. Bill in Idaho
- mtaylor, popeye the sailor, Canute and 1 other
- 4
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The jewelers saw works very well specially in the harder types of wood. Be sure to get fine tooth blades. A rule of thumb for blades is to have three teeth on the thickness of materil being cut. So for example 1/8th inch material you'd need 24 TPI. (teeth per inch). On the other hand too fine of teeth on thicker material will cause the blade to clog and make sawing difficult. Bill
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Might work in the larger scales. Try it, and report back. There was a Russian technique for building hulls a few years back that might lend itself well to the use of a pin nailer. Anybody remember that series maybe Dr. Mike? or that Australian fellow who studied with him for awhile? Bill
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Any rules re planks between butt joints?
in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Posted
Was talking to a freind today who lived in Sitka. He once owned a wooden troller about 35 long. He said the planks were always joined with a block between ribs, The plank ends were through bolted and countersunk on the exterior and plugged. Also bedding compound was liberally applied between the plank and joiner. Decks were done the same way. On a boat that size ,screws for joints driven into the frames and carlins will weaken the wood and allow water to enter. At one time in Sitka it was popular to apply Pliobond ,a rubber cement as a waterproof deck paint.It proved to be too subject to wear and the practice was stopped. BILL