reklein

Eddie, Amazon has em , look for Irwin mini-bar clamps. They come in 6" and 12" and they have sets of 2 or 4. They aren't as expensive as I thought and they do hold.

Irwin brand slide clamps are the best here in the states. They don't slip. But they are spendy, about $20 us for a pair.

Those are cool. I picked one up in Hong Kong in 1966 while on Liberty from USS Intrepd. Bought a couple of ivery figures too. I suspect this ivory is contraband now. Because of environmental rules.

    I too am beginning to get cataracts,but doc said not to worry just yet. I'm starting to see halos while night driving.

In wood turning class they told us not to make tools from files as they tend to break along the scored teeth lines.

Thanks, I was trained to do lost wax casting on a centrifuge in Navt Dental tech school. Just looks like a fun thing to try again. I do a little resin work now and then but its not like casting metal.   BILL

Where did you get your casting machine and other equipment. Please.

   One could upgrade this rig too with a Roto-zip or Dremels larger model for household work similar to the roto-zip. The roto-zip is a sort of mini router used primarily for dry wall work. Generally uses a side cutting drill. It has a 1/8th inch chuck.

Hydrogen Peroxide ? I googled a couple articles but couldn't figure out how to move em over here.

http://diycrazy.net/making-a-mini-drill-press-router-table-spindle-sander-all-in-one-cok-fonksiyonlu-dremel-tezgahi/      Check out this link for a Dremel drill press.spindle sander etc.

I built my Concord from scratch and started to construct the sides from framing as in the plans. It got too fiddly for me so I cut out sides from Basswood and carved them out. turned ot retty good but I still like the built up sides. One of these days I'll have to build another the right way. Nice work there Dan.

Good to have you back Danny. Your Cobb &Co. wagon looks something like our "mud wagon" that was used in these parts of Idaho. Close to the Concord but not quite the same class. It was a more open ride. They have one in Walla Walla Washington about a hundred miles away. If I get by there ,I'll have to post a picture or two.   Bill

Sorry to sound so negative on that homebuilt milling machine. We have a pulp mill here in town and there are various suppliers of parts for such machines , but I'm afraid none of them were very helpful. I was thinking this might be a job that Gaetan or Michael Mott could undertake with success. The idea of building it had me excited for awhile.  You types with experience in machining might have a field day with this project and may even know how to use them when finished ;).

    I do have a the Dremel drill press accessory that allows one to turn the Dremel at different angles and that has been quite helpful. I also have a Harbor freight 3x12 lathe that I have used in a limited way. I actually had better success with my wood lathe for projects than anything.

   Kinda on a different subject, I have a small Ryobi 4V screwdriver I love for drilling styrene.. It has lots of torque,is two speed, and doesn't turn so fast as to melt the plastic I'm working with.I use a three jaw chuck with it to hold fine bits.

   Another handy tool is the Harbor freight hole punch set which is great for making discs in various sizes.

   So I hope I haven't given anyone the impression that this project is worthless.

I checked into buying parts for that very article. After paying $45 for a half sheet of ply and then going on to locating and pricing the other parts I would have had several hundred dollars invested. Check out the Grainger catalog prices for those fancy knobs and left handed threads etc. Just not doable for me. Rather buy a premade mill for those prices. I have to admit I was smitten by the Idea that I might be able to build something like that though.

You might try a contact cement such as Pliobond, or a contact cement that is used for cabinet tops. The 3M spray cement should work well just be sure you use the permanent type and not the repositionable.CA may not wick completely into the joint

I've always liked models that are finished but unpainted. Not plastic so much but models that are what you'd call multi-media,styrene,brass,wood,photo etch etc. However in the end you may get tired of that and want a finished look. I have brass steam engine models that are unpainted and agonize (mildly) that they should be painted but then they lose that valuable look. Some of my favorite models ever are cutaways specially of sailing ships and WWII fighters but those are always completely finished so you understand how the planes and ships were built and loaded.

I like your stern carving.

Eric, I eally like the look of your paper sails. In the photos they "read" really well. Think I'll try them next time, maybe on My Syren build coming up. On mt Halifax I used handkerchief material but I don't sew and although the the lady who did it for me tried hard it wasn't quite right. I did use spray starch to stiffen the cloth some and make it more managable. I see one guy on the forum used old kahki pants and got great results. 

Boy!! You are gonna have to be careful when handling that.  Nice work.

There is a really nice steel sternwheeler at Penticton,B.C. Canada. Beautiful restoration but it is hauled out. Has many historical displays inside. 

They should probably have a backing plate if the joint is between frames. Which is where I would put the joint. Thre are a lot of different problems to overcome when planking. Wefalcks photos are the proof though.

Jud, A genuine sea story by a person who lived it. Someone should collect these for a book.     

Welcome aboard,from Lewiston ID. I too am a model railroader. plus ships,plus the ocassional airplane,plus the ocassional horse drawn vehicle. Its hard to stay focused.

Michael, We know you have it, Now you gotta build it.

Not near the scope of your project,but just yesterday I rebuilt a metal model train car that has been poorly assembled with contact cement. A little soak in lacquer thinner and Voila! a new kit!. I'm gonna have to keep an eye on this build. Should be fun.

Proof that a person can't have too many clamps. Nice work.