reklein

Nice work Glenn, and what a handsome ship. When it comes to the rigging ,you might have to pick what era of her life you want to model and stick with that. Those photos you posted would make a great reference to her rig.

I saw that and wondered,then thought "I like the assymetry. Nice work Gaetan !

I'll have to check out his youtube videos. Years ago when I lived in Alaska I had a freind who made several stitch and glue rowboats and a couple small sailboats.The stitch and glue method involves wiring the main components together and filleting the joints with epoxy putty. Then cutting off the ends of the wires. This guy was a fast builder. Went at it like he was killin snakes but his boats turned out really nice. As chance would have it he moved within 40 miles of me and is now building another skiff. Well hes on hold due to cold weather but hes at it again. I'd sorta like to build an R/C sailer but I promised myself to stay focused on what I already have in stock for large models. A Syren and a model expo WWI plane.

You answered my question about a good sailing site. I was wondering if your epoxy mix stays in place. I've had trouble with mixes like that flowing,no matter how stiff I mix. Your kit manufacturer may have the answer for that though..Looks like fun for sure. You can get that tug to push you around in your skiff on the lake.

Very nice Stage coach. Too bad on the keel warp. Good job straightening it. Now be careful not to build a warp back into it as you add the bulkheads. When I was building R/C plane fuselages I would hsve a straight line drawn out on the building board to maintain my alignments. Good luck on your build.

Hey Rich , Have fun with your new kit. I thought I was the only one who decorated his shop walls with box tops from finished kits. 

Keep pluggin away. Even if you only get a few minutes a day ,you can still make progress. Its quality ot speed. Also when you're working a job your modeling time is much more valuable. I've been retired 15 years now and sometimes my hobby time is taken for granted and I waste time. Also don't let your mistakes worry you. Its called learning and you next model will be that much better. 

When cutting curved stock always cut so your knife runs away from the grain,never into it. Make several cuts not just one. You can back the piece with masking tape.Sand the same way ,away from the grain. Any rotary sander should also rotate away from the grain.not into it. Cut out your piece fairly roughly before you begin. If the waste side is thin it has room to move away rather than cracking. If all else fails trace out new parts to match the grain. I used to build balsa models as a kid and learned to cut out round wing tips and control surface edges like these.

  If you use a coping or jewelers saw ,nail a piece of 1/4 " hardwood such as maple or walnut to your work bench and cut out a V shape about 2" wide and 2 and1/2" deep and support your wood over the narrow part of the V and cut there,moving your wood to stay in the apex of the V.

  Buy a bottle of ACC.

The auger is still good for drilling in big timber such as building stus, posts, and trees. Just remember to back off and clear the bit as you can get them stuck. That screww point will draw itself in very quickly.

A correction for my deleted post. For 25 mm I would go with a forstner bit too. Drill slowly until you see or feel the point come through then drill from the other side using the hole left by the point as a guide. The forstner will give a very clean hole because of its cutting edges at the circumference. 

Some of us our arms are not long enough without glasses.:0

I wear my reading glasses over the top of my regular glasses. The readers are a low oblong shape so I can see over the top of them to see normal objects like the football game.

Heres the promised pic.  I think I got these at a Harbor Freight store.

Very nice little carvings Chuck. I have some pointed diamond burrs for my Dremel that could be used without the Dremel for fine sanding. It would be easy to make handles for them for manual useor just chuck them up in a pin vise. I can't remember where I got them. Will try to post picks later today. I was also wondering if once you got your basic shape carved if it would be beneficial to harden the wood with ACC.  Also heaven forbid the forms could be carved in styrene if you intended to paint them.

IMO one of  the best books for overall coverage is "Historic Ship Models" by Wolfram zu Mondfeld Sterling Publishing. Lennarth Petersens book looks pretty good too buts covers a single ship type in a specific period.

Nice job, R/C building and flying used to be my main hobby 25 years ago. I loved the quarter scale planes. I moved away from my flying buddies aand there wasn't the same vibe where I am now although there is a very nice field and a group that still flies there.

With your Victory case ,you may want to have a custom cabinet with a base that has some sort of environmental control unit in it.

be careful of drawing down the psi inside or you'll collapse the case. You will probably want to use LED lighting to reduce heat, but heat may build if the case is sealed . Better do a Google search on artifact preservation.  

Maybe for ships in bottles.

Those are nice little tools ,but the handles need to be regular size in order to get proper leverage and manipulation. Lee Valley does make nice stuff.

The tulip doesn't necessarily have to be center you could arrange the pattern to fit the grain a little better maybe.  Also do not do any sanding til you are completely finished carving as any grit left on you work piece will take the edge off your nice carving tools.

A 16 oz. hammer would be much better to silence an annoying spectator than a tack hammer, unless of course the offending party is a fly or spider. Then you need the asalt gun. I'm sure youv'e seen the ads.

I have heard your expression "bare mill is barely usable" in other posts. Also goes for lathes both metal and wood. Its recommended that one will spend at least as much on accessories as on the main unit. I don't have the skills for a metal lathe or mill although I hsve a small Harbor freight metal lathe that I rarely use and would sell it if someone within a 100 miles of Lewiston would buy it. Way too heavy to ship. 

No wonder Poland has only a little forest left.

Hers a photo of my American Scout among other things in my cluttered shop. No wonder the wife won't le'me bring my models into the house.

I have the hull of one of those sitting on my shelf in the shop. I think the kit is spot on for a Victory ship. I began the model in 1967 while still in the Navy. I fiberglassed the hull and that is probably why it has survived all these years. I was gonna rebuild the superstructure in Styrene for a more metallic look. I actually operated my hull on the water but it was saltwater and the stuffing box froze up. I also havae the fittings kit but its kinda crude so a scratch build would probably be wise. In addition I have the Sterling Battleship Missouri still in kit form from those days. So many models so little time. I'm going to follow your build.