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reklein

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Everything posted by reklein

  1. I'm still using my grandfathers #11 knife. Of course my dad replaced th blade aand I replaced the handle,but its still my grandfathers knife. Kidding aside, I resharpen exacto blades a lot. I also grind the very sharp point off at an angle as the seem to break away anyway. Bill
  2. Taubmann plans service may have plans of your ship. Just Google Taubman plans service. Bill
  3. I'm 70 and I've been using reading glasses over my regular glasses. That way I can look over the tops of the readers and watch the football replays. Be sure there's nothing on the insides of the readers that'll scratch your regular glasses. Bill in Idaho
  4. Looks good to me. The young dude is on a tight budget and its a great recycle job Way to go bud. Bill
  5. If you keep the armament and want to cruise with it ,you could specialize in off shore east african coastal cruises,with ports of call in Etheopia and Somalia. Bill
  6. Sounds to me like your fence is not truly parrallel to the blade. Try finding a tune up guide for your saw. BILL
  7. Contact Floyd Kershner on this forum. He should be able to answer all your questions. Bill in Lewiston ID
  8. Scroll saws are very handy for the hobbyist. Get one that takes pinless blades for sure. Much more variety in blade types. You'll find that there are a lot of projects beside ship models that can be done with a scroll saw. If the wife and kids have any interest at all they'll be able to do craft projects galore with a scroll saw.BILL
  9. Was just reflecting on all those gunport lids and the poor soul,who, back in the day had to carve 100 lion heads, out of oak presumably and not a power tool for another 400 years.We are a spoiled lot in this day and age. Bill (struggling with a laser cut kit) in the present
  10. Well I would say the more frames the more accurate the hull will be. In warships the frames were heavy and only a few inches apart. In say a fishing boat maybe a foot apart. One thing you could do would be to show false frames where you intend to show them through the planking. I've seen example models on this forum where the modeler has blocked in between every frame to ensure a fair hull. BILL
  11. Gel CA is much more controllable than the watery kind. The watery stuff is best used by makig a little puddle on say the bottom of a paint bottle and then applying it with the end of a paperclip that has been straightened. BILL
  12. There's a Pizza restaurant in town that uses applewood in their pizza oven. Really makes a nice pizza.. Bill
  13. Yep! I've always liked basswood,color's kinda bland, but it takes detail really well.Plus, its chap and available. Nice work. BILL
  14. What he said, plane one surface flat first. A thickness sander makes both sides parrallel. BILL
  15. I have seen the results of accidents caused by inattentiveness caused by repetitive operations. That is when making multiple pieces. After 8-9 cuts ones motion tends to get a little automatic and thats when carelessness gets involved. BILL
  16. Looks like your link works fine. These big models are really able to show us the details that disappear even in 1-200 scale anad forget about 1-350. However not many people have room in their living room for an 18 foot long model ship. I really like all the binoculars on the bridge and that collection of electrical boxes on the inside of the splinter shields. Things like those can only be done when you have a team of volunteers to take on various projects within a project. In Jan.1964 when I was in Navy basic training in Great lakes, Illinois. I was for two weeks MAA in a recreation hall. In the main lobby were about four examples of 1-48 scale Battleships in cases down the center.I didn't have much time to gawk at them but when I did they were absolutely fascinating. Great work and thanks again for posting. Bill
  17. Sarcofagus, you could put the photos on an independent site such as "Photobucket" and post the link. BILL
  18. Keep those photos coming Sarcophagus. I'm sooo jealous, I wish I had such a project. I love that scale of model. Wish I had room for one. That'd be a great club project too. Keep us posted. Bill in Idaho
  19. Heres my red cedar half model canoe on an Alaska cedar back. The canoe is about 4 feet long. Sorry about the poor pic. BILL in Idaho
  20. Red cedar and Alaska yellow cedar both make good carving wood for larger scale stuff. It would make great wood for bread and butter hulls. Classic cedar strip canoes are made from good wood. Like any other wood, if its knotty and gnarly its firewood. The dust from cedar can be sorta toxic to some folks like me and I also have to use a mask when working it. Also the sawdust from hand sanding seems to form tiny slivers in my fingers and make little blisters which are annoying. I'd sort through that stack and cull the kinky stuff out. But seeing that the OP is over a year old you've probably figured that all out by now. Bill in Idaho
  21. Yes! I agree with this 100%. Consider DORIS' card models. Bill
  22. Hey Louie, Just to throw another stick on the fire. I took a little three day woodturning course a few years back, the "experts" there said to avoid fruitwood as it is unstable due to the annual movement of the wood during its fruiit production stages. That is the weight of the fruit flexes the wood. On the other hand fruitwoods are fairly colorful, and cherry is one of the best. On milling your own wood, its really satisfying to produce miniature lumber from collected stock,if nothing else you will realize why the hobby wood sales folks price there stock the way they do. You''l probably lose about half to sawdust. Have fun and keep the "chooks in the pen. Bill in Idaho
  23. I'm wondering how close the Sterling C-2 cargo ship is to a Victory ship. I have a Sterling hull I built and am thinking of turning it into a Haskell class ship. I'd probably be the only person around who'd know any difference. One could call a rose an onion if one was introducing it to a new crowd. There's a lot of history on these on the web. Too much for me to sort out ad I sorta have a mix of prototypes going here in this one model. Don't tell anyone though. Bill
  24. I'm using CA and kicker. I apply the CA, join the parts, and apply a very small amount of the kicker with the bottom end of the kicker sprayer pickup tube. Probably a small glass rod would be a better applicator but if I need a squirt of kicker the sprayer is handy. This method gives me a little time to adjust the position of the parts to be joined. I always keep thin,thicker and gel CA on hand. It would be nice to have three hands for this operation. Bill
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