Jump to content
MSW Spring Donation Drive

petervisser

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    505

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by petervisser

  1. petervisser
    Hi GG, Great build log so far. All of your pictures and descriptions are first rate. I have always admired this kit and will follow along with interest. Peter
  2. petervisser
    Hi Ferit, I have enjoyed looking through your build log. Beautiful craftsmanship and your attention to detail is impressive. Keep up the great work. I look forward to seeing more! Peter
  3. petervisser
    Beautiful lines on your Mars Robert. She looks great! Peter
  4. petervisser
    Great work Derik! Really enjoyed your log so far and am looking forward to following along. Cheers, Peter
  5. petervisser
    I just caught up with your build log. Very impressive work and your attention to detail is amazing. Great photos as well. Thanks for submitting them and letting us learn from your methods. Peter
  6. petervisser
    Hi Ian, I believe we corresponded on the old MSW site over the Unicorn. I completed mine just last year in the record time (I thought) of 15 years. You have out-paced me, so I have read from your build log. I remember buying this kit because of the fact that it was a frigate. I learned early on that it was not an accurate model and the description given by Corel was way off. However, it was a frigate and I charged ahead. Reading what little research I did, I made some minor modifications regarding the smaller calibre guns on the quarterdeck, and re-arranging some of the deck furniture and fittings. I also fitted some proper pin racks at the bases of the masts. I used John MacKay's book on the Pandora to help me with some of the details. It was good fun and I enjoyed the build. You are certainly doing your homework and will have a much more accurate Unicorn than I have. There are some completed model photos in the gallery if you care to take a look. Good luck with your build and I'll be sure to check on your progress from time to time. Cheers, Peter
  7. petervisser
    Thanks Andy. I can't take credit though as I copied the colour scheme from the box. Keith, those are storage lockers for the Heineken. Peter
  8. petervisser
    This model is very lucky to have found you. Andre, you are doing a wonderful job restoring this once sorry Wasa. The original builder would never recognize this model again. Thanks for posting your log. Peter
  9. petervisser
    A stunning piece of work Rusty and really inspirational. Thanks for sharing all the great pics! Peter
  10. petervisser
    I am now up to date with my build log of the zeeschouw. The posts will now become a little sparse as it is at home and I am at work, far away... With summer coming the construction will slow right down I'm afraid as the "boss" has other ideas as to how I should spend my spare time. Damn bosses... Anyway here are some more pic's. Happy modelling! Peter
  11. petervisser
    Thanks for looking in gents. While coat after coat of paint go on the hull, I was side-tracked with getting the cap rails ready. Nothing finishes off a hull like a good cap rail! I kept the design and construction simple. No scarph joints for me this time around. It is a skill I have yet to master and if anyone can point me in the right direction in that regard, I'd be thankful. My method was to try and get the outside curve onf the gunwale transferred to a sheet of mahogany. For this I used a thin sheet of cardboard and held it to the gunwale so that I could trace the curve with a pencil. I then cut the cardboard along the pencil line and then laid that over the mahogany and did another trace. Too easy! The pictures will show the process... Here you can see the cardboard cut and conforming to the curve of the gunwale. I had already cut it and re-applied it so you can see the result better. Now the cardboard is laid on the sheet of mahogony and the shape is traced onto the sheet. I decided on a suitable width that would allow for a bit of sanding on both edges. I cut the mahogany with an X-acto knife working from the end and then progressively towards the other end. This avoided awkward splitting of the sheet. A little rough around the edges, but the sanding block will take care of that. This is one of my favourite tools! Now for the inside cut. Again work backwards with the X-acto knife, otherwise the sheet will likely split along the grain. Now to sand the inside curve to even the width of the cap rail. Here they are, ready to be glued onto the gunwale. These strips are for the mid-sections of the model. There are short pieces to go on the ends, which were prepared seperately.
  12. petervisser
    While adding coats of paint to the hull, I decided to make a custom stand for the model. Billing did supply one, but it was rather small. I was able to buy a small sheet of mahogany at my hobby store in town and I had some mahogony strips so I was off to the races. This handy little device gave me the inside shapes of the cradle. I normally use the drawings to get the shape, but the bulkheads were not included in them. The stand without varathane. The finished stand with some felt to protect the hull.
  13. petervisser
    Thanks again for the encouragement everyone. This really is a fun boat to build and I am enjoying it very much. After the primer coats had cured, I decided to give the rubbing strakes a couple of coats of finish white. Humbrol paints are my preference and I have had good results with all my models with their enamel. When the white had dried I applied the Tamaiya masking tape to mask the strakes. I had mixed results with this as I used short lengths of tape to mask. It might have been better to use a single length. Live and learn... As you can see, it is going to take several coats to cover the white. I was really excited to add some colour to the model at this stage. With three colours making up the hull, it took a bit of planning and masking to finish the hull.
  14. petervisser
    Hi Gil, Well, I for one had to do a double take to determine which was the model gunport and which was the real one. Beautiful work indeed. Thanks for re-doing your build log. Lots of great techniques to emulate! Peter
  15. petervisser
    Hi Robert, I just caught up on your build log of the Mars and really enjoyed it. Your techniques are very well carried out and your model looks beautiful. Thanks for sharing your work. It's an inspiration to me to try some of your methods. Happy building! Peter
  16. petervisser
    While prepping the hull and waiting for the paint to dry, I tackled the side boards and the rudder. I decided to laminate both sides of the rudder and one side each of the side boards with mahogany strips I had on hand. They add a little more wood lustre to the model. I only put the mahogany strips on the outboard sides of the side boards and painted the inboard sides the same colour as the hull. On the right, the strips are glued to the laser cut side board, and the left one has the extra material removed with a combination of X-acto knives and sanding block. Here is the laser cut rudder ready for its strips to be laminated. The mahogany strips are applied and ready for some varathane. Here the components are ready. Billing supplies decorative decals for these pieces that I will apply closer to the finish of the build.
  17. petervisser
    Thanks very much gents. "Atta boy's" are always welcome. To start the hull painting process, I used a sanding sealer primer on the wood. I applied a couple of coats and smoothed the hull between coats with some extra fine steel wool. I wanted a nice smooth finish. This is the product used to prime the hull. The first coat of primer applied. The stand is temporary as it was surplus to another model. The hull is now ready for the top coats.
  18. petervisser
    Hi Neale, Great build log of your Victory. Your technique for planking your model is VERY comprehensive and you have helped many of us understand how it can be done with greater accuracy and correctness. Thanks for taking all the time to post all your excelllent photos. Peter
  19. petervisser
    Hi Gil, I have just finished looking through your fantastic build log of the Victory. Stunning workmanship with lots of great build techniques. Thanks for posting all the great photos of your progress. They are inspiring to be sure! Cheers, Peter
  20. petervisser
    Although not called for in the plans, I decided to add some rubbing strakes to the hull. The lower ones helped in that it made for a nice pin stripe and more detail. I would expect an actual vessel to have one there also to protect the hull when tying up. The upper ones were added to help support the cap rail. There wasn't a cap rail supplied with the model. The plans suggested a 1.8 x 2.0 mm strip be used, But I didn't like that idea. So I used some small square stock to glue to the outside of the gunwale so to allow the cap rail something to sit on and adhere to. The strakes add a little something to the hull details. Now I am ready to paint the hull.
  21. petervisser
    Thanks for your kind remarks Jan and John. Yes it is a shame that Billing doesn't market the boat as a working vessel. It would make an interesting subject. However, a colourful yacht has a bit more appeal to the masses... like me I guess! Mr. Billing is a little stingy with the wood on this particular model. Although the hull panels were of fairly good design in that they laid on the bulkheads (except for the one I pointed out earlier) the two middle panels were a tiny bit short on length by a millimeter or two. I could have sanded the transom down so that the panels reached the after face of the transom, but I decided on a different approach. I glued a thin sheet to the transom, which created a small gap at the sides of the hull. After sanding the extra sheet to the outside dimensions of the transom, I filled the gaps with wood filler. Here you can just see that the hull panel was not quite long enough. Here I added the sheet to the transom to create the gap. Another view also showing how the panels did not quite meet up. It was an easy fix to deal with both these issues. A filler piece is added to the gap between the hull panels. A little wood filler to fix Mr. Billing's mistake... Here a closer look. Using my sanding block after the wood filler dried, hid the slight defect perfectly.
  22. petervisser
    Once all the panels were in place and the glue had dried, I could remove the dowel heads and fair the hull. This was a very satisfying stage because the hull was nce and smooth, ready for fondling... She is now taking on a nice shape, and will soon be ready for some paint.
  23. petervisser
    Thanks for all the nice comments guys. Yes she is a pretty little boat and it is a shame that it is not more widely available. It makes for a very nice beginners kit. Sjors, I could read your Dutch! I am able to read a little bit still after all these years. I was a little tike when we came across on the old Rijndam. This summer my wife and I are coming to Holland again for a holiday and visit with family. We are renting a motor yacht and sailing the canals in Friesland with my cousin. Hopefuly we won't run over any zeeschouws.... At any rate, here are a few more pics of my model... Going back to the hull planking, I glued the panels to the bulkheads using super glue and held them with finishing nails so that they stayed. They are not the nails I would normally use because they are way too big. But they were all I had at the time. Once the glue had cured I removed the finishing nails and replaced them with wood dowels. I also planked over the bow deck with some mahogany strips I had laying around. I used black thread between them to simulate the caulking. I made sure to drill some pilot hole first before pushing the nails home. Here the wood dowels have replaced the finishing nails so that the hull can be sanded smooth. No matter how hard I tried, I ended up with a gap between the panels. I simply made a wedge to fill it in. The gap on the other side was much smaller and was filled with wood filler.
  24. petervisser
    Hi Buck, Yes, I love them too and have a couple more waiting in the wings! Peter
  25. petervisser
    I am skipping back to the cabin bulkhead here so you can see how I made the windows. I learned a trick from a fellow modeller on the old DDM website. He was a Russian who was building a Corel Bellona. On his model he used a floppy disk sheet to simulate windows. They had a very realistic look on his gallery windows and I have used it here on this model to good effect. I have often thought back to his model and wondered how he is getting on with his project. It was one of the finest models I have ever seen.. These disks are becoming rare with the advent of thumb drives, but I find some all the time at work squirreled away. Just rip open the plastic case and the perfect window material presents itself. Here you can see the window material in place. The only thing missing is the lace curtains the Dutch use to dress their windows! Can't have it all...

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...