-
Posts
5,419 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by RGL
-
-
I’m loving seeing a representation of plastic models now! My upgrade is ordered but won’t be ready till the end of the year but Ive got a lot on anyways I won’t get to it till February really.
What else to the upgrade, I’ve ordered a LOT of pulleys and blocks required for the rigging of the torpedo nets. Very cheap off EBay.
Canute is going to get a real head start with this as it’s already arrived in the US. I can’t really do much until I get the template for the torpedo net booms, then I can etch in armour plates.
Hey, by Feb Popeye will have finished Vendetta and Cog his marvellous destroyer.
Seydltiz under full broadside
-
The tiny pliers I got from U-Star are the best tool I have bought for placement. I use acupuncture needles for glue application
-
Well done mate, I’m due another US ship after the German one. I like the Ww2 tin cans.
-
It is just amazing to see how the grown ups do it!!!!
- mtaylor, Canute, popeye the sailor and 3 others
-
6
-
Yes, if you mess up just use a cigarette lighter to burn it off and start again
- mtaylor, Canute and popeye the sailor
-
3
-
-
Are you going to scribe the hull?
-
-
Nice choice. Barrels are never too small to drill out, just need the right tools.
- Canute, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 1 other
-
4
-
Your sir, are awesome. I built him in plastic on this site a few years ago!
-
-
The thing I love about the Tamiya rattle can primer is the way it sticks to PE, and I’m yet to find any primer through an airbrush as good.
Pontos is an adventure in sanity at times in regards to instructions. It’s like they do section by section but never reason how to put it all together
- channell, Old Collingwood, CDW and 3 others
-
6
-
There is nothing below the waterline when it comes to details. There is also no strakes along the bow which are on the real thing.
So some marskung and some very thin tape soles that quickly. I need to get some more rattle can spray to finish coverage on the Lower hull, then I can scribe in some panels.
I also added some riveted panels to the rudders and above the cannons that run along the edge of the hull.
- hexnut, lmagna, Beef Wellington and 8 others
-
11
-
-
They used to be able to hit each other over 12 kilometres just using optics too! At anchor with the nets deployed they would also drag anchor As the tide was turning. They could operate at about 6kts with the nets down but would use a prodigious amount of coal.
- Old Collingwood, Canute, mtaylor and 2 others
-
5
-
-
-
Use the PE railings as s gauge
-
I love the Tamiya steel as it just falls off when bent. Luckily the Seydlitz only has 2 rails
-
-
Well done mate, it is pure agony doing those holes, and the continuous snapping of drill bits
- lmagna, Canute, popeye the sailor and 1 other
-
4
-
-
- mtaylor, Canute, CaptainSteve and 8 others
-
11
-
As far as I know they were compressed air, and only good for a kilometre or so, thus knife fight range.
- Canute, Old Collingwood, lmagna and 3 others
-
6
SMS Seydlitz by Canute, Cog, Stein Gildberg & RGL - FINISHED - Hobbyboss - 1/350 - PLASTIC
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
Posted
So jealous. I’ve been out on the water coaching kids sport since 6am, quick nap then off to a beer festival all afternoon.
If if I had the drilling template I could get a lot done even without the upgrade!!!!!
If you look look closely at the original photos there are sheeves above each torpedo net boom that run a line through two blocks on each boom.
There are multiple blocks on the forward part of the hull that lines run through to pull out the booms, those lines then run up the the deck via sheeves that would then run to winches to pull them out.
Then there are brailing davits along the deck that run out to the nets to pull them up. I’ve just about got my head around them and will do up a diagram later.