Tigersteve

Leathering is completed and one coat of Wipe-On-Poly (second photo). I suppose I will need to eliminate one for the presentation. 
Steve

Looks very neat. I like it!

Steve

Using the techniques described in the manual, I tapered and shaped the oars. To get a consistent tapering across all oars, I used the technique shown in the first photo where I sanded towards the blade. 
 

The oars were treated with several coats of natural stain followed by two coats of golden oak, which were wiped off after about a minute of saturation. Leathering is next. 
Steve

Nice!

Steve

I think the sail looks pretty good. Shouldn’t the spar be rounded though? That is sticking out to me. Doesn’t look right. 
Steve

Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. 
 

Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. 
Steve

Beautiful design and execution. 
Steve

Very nicely done!

Steve

Made four buckets- two quarter size and two nickel size. One bucket did not survive, but I think it would have been too crowded in the presentation. These will be painted and holes drilled. 3/16” strips were used in the construction. 
 

I applied one coat of paint after this photo, but used too much water. There’s a bit of touch up needed as the water caused some damage. Stay tuned…
Steve

Thanks! Took a little break after the painting fiasco. Must build the buckets…

Steve

Nameplate applied. This material is shinier than the nameplates on my other projects. Apparently, they don’t use that other material any longer. It’s a bit shiny for my taste, but it will have to due for this project. Still looks clean. 
Steve

I’m sure the repair will look even better than the first attempt. 
Steve

Nice progress!

Steve

Thank you for the compliments. Means a lot coming from fine craftsman like yourselves. 
Steve

Testor’s Dullcote does not react well with Tamiya paints. I was getting a spotty, eggshell type finish. To recover, I sanded the surfaces most affected and repainted. Lesson learned. Test finishes off model. I will be using different paints going forward. Also, do not use Wipe-On-Poly over paint unless you want a sheen. I wish I took this advice on previous models. 
 

I over worked the sanding of the oars and have requested replacement parts from Model Expo. While I wait for those parts, I will construct the buckets and start the rope work on the model. I purchased Syren rope for this.  
 

I worked on the layout for the nameplate. Measurements are 3.25” x .25”. I will get that made at a local trophy shop. Very inexpensive and adds a nice finishing touch to the project.
 

Thank you Mike Stuntflyer and Ryland Craze for your assistance on the paint finishes.  I learned a lot from our exchanges. 
Steve

Really sharp! Some serious geometry happening on this ship. 
Steve

Sanding sticks were made using kit wood and a glue stick. These sizes were very handy for working on the cap rail. I also modified the transom to a more pleasing curve. 
 

Painting is very close to being finished. I am trying to avoid purchasing more paint as I have over diluted a couple of my colors. Oar construction is also underway. 

Color scheme (Tamiya Flat Paints);

Exterior Hull: Flat Earth

Interior Hull: Desert Yellow

Cap rail/Gunwale: J.A. Green

For the few following along- thank you for all the likes!

Steve

Looking sharp!

Steve

Nicely done!

Steve

Very nice! Echo Keith’s suggestion here. 
Steve

Completed display base. Next update will be after the cap rail is complete. As you can tell from my last two posts, this will take a while. There’s a lot of work necessary to get the model to an acceptable level.  
Steve

The profile of the hull was used to trace a parallel line next to the cutout where the original cap rail piece was removed from the sheet. After the shape was roughly cut out, I moved the piece along 220 grit sandpaper that was wrapped around my finger. Kit basswood is good for this. All that is needed is your hobby knife and sandpaper. 
 

While the cap rail pieces get pre-painted before attaching to the hull, see the attached photo of my modified base parts. The original kit supplied base seemed oversized. The base was treated with pre-stain before applying a natural stain. Three coats of Wipe-On-Poly was applied with fine sanding in between. 
Steve

Needed a break from painting so back to construction. I was finally able to install the first part of the cap rail. This was sanded flush with the gunwale. After the remaining pieces are installed,  I will add some filler to any gaps and sand them flush. See the attached rough photo. 
Steve

I’ve said it before. Mike’s projects make you elevate your own work. Just excellent! Thank you for raising the standard. 
Steve

It looks good. These are some really difficult parts to make. Sometimes it’s good to step away for a bit. Each attempt will be better than the previous. 
Steve