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Tim Curtis

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Everything posted by Tim Curtis

  1. Tim Curtis
    Let me know how it goes Steven.
  2. Tim Curtis
    Had another go at this. Improving.
  3. Tim Curtis
    I had another go at this tonight. Here are results. I basically create a laminate structure with a copper layer on either side of a wood strip. The copper layer is actually one piece folded so that it is also used to create the strop. Tried to draw diagram below. Initial result is ok. But will need improving! Any thoughts or suggestions welcome! Tim
  4. Tim Curtis
    Dear Blue Ensign and Steven. Thanks for your suggestions. Both look like possible options. BE...how did you attach strops to the styrene blocks? Steven...I tried something similar using brass tube, without much success. But I like yours! Thanks, Tim
  5. Tim Curtis
    Thanks Bob. The challenge with bead would be trying to attach a wire strop to it. I don't have the resources to cast in metal. But I could try FIMO - that's an interesting idea. Do you know if you can drill a hole in fimo once it is baked - or is it too brittle?
  6. Tim Curtis
    I am planning to start work on a 1:180 model of the yacht Endeavour (1934). I am going to need to make some very small blocks (around 1mm or possibly even less). They will need to be iron stropped blocks. I have tried various techniques to make them with limited success - and found it very time consuming. Does anyone have any proven techniques to make these? (Apart from the paper techniques suggested by Philip Reed in his books - which I have already looked at). Or is it possible to purchase some ready made anywhere? Thanks in advance Tim
  7. Tim Curtis
    Here is a long delayed update on this build. I have altered the kit significantly. I added some of my own planking to create the wale. Also added my own figurehead, see above for details. Also my own planking above the wale. Pictures pretty self explanatory.
  8. Tim Curtis
    Here is a very belated update. I have been quietly plodding along with this...while converting my garage into a studio office. Not much to say. The photos speak for themselves I think. Just dry fit at the moment. I am no master at working at this scale, but I thoroughly enjoy its minutiae.
  9. Tim Curtis
    I have started the hull and rear deck area. Dry fits together well. What I REALLY like is the laser etched wooden deck. It is stunningly thin. It took me a while to realise it actually has some backing paper that you peel off and then just stick the thing done. It's pretty fragile and you need to be careful about getting positioning just right, and also don't get your tweezers stuck to the back. But in about 5 mins you have this microscopically detailed Ultra thin deck planking in place. I reckon it's about 0.1 to 0.2mm thick. Result is very pleasing. See below. What you need to remember is this is 1:700 scale. The whole hull is about 25cm or 10" long.
  10. Tim Curtis
    And here are some more photos of the content of the box.
  11. Tim Curtis
    I was not going to do a build log for this kit. But having started it a couple of days ago, I am so impressed by it that I thought I would do a basic log. Plastic parts are made by ICM models (a Ukrainian company). Flyhawk has then added 5 PE frets, lots of additional tiny turned brass details, and some Uschi rigging thread. All for under AUD$100 ($68 US). Below are some detailed photos of the box and what's in it. I took these after having started the model so there are a few parts of the rear deck and hull that I have painted and glued together.
  12. Tim Curtis
    This is a kit put together by Flyhawk, combining a plastic kit from ICM with Flyhawks own PE supplements and wooden deck. Also comes with some Uschi rigging thread, 0.03mm. Cost about AUD100 Hobbylink, Japan.
  13. Tim Curtis
    This is one of my favourite kits...so excited to see a build log of it.
  14. Tim Curtis
    I am going to call this project finished now. It was always my plan to create a "half-rigged" model with sails only on the foremast. This give the model a sense of being a real, dynamic sailing machine....without obscuring all the details of the deck and rigging. There are a few tiny details to tidy up...but I am already caught up in my next two projects!! So here are a few final photos.
  15. Tim Curtis
    Jon. So pleased you are finishing this ship. She is a beauty. Deserves to be finished Not enoughDowneasters on this site. I have just purchased AOTS Bertha Downs. Plan to build her at some point. This log is an inspiration Tim
  16. Tim Curtis
    Doris, Once again, I am lost for words. Your work is so far beyond what most of us can achieve. In english I would say you are a National Treasure...they should give your work a museum of its own. Tim
  17. Tim Curtis
    Michael. Your model is amazing. I think you should just build a full size boat next time. Like the "Integrity" gaff rigged yacht that Will Stirling made in the UK. It feels like the only difference would be size. Quick question. What does one do with a model that big once it is finished? I speak as a married man. Tim
  18. Tim Curtis
    Excited to see this. One of my dream kits! Bit out of my price range at the moment. Will pull up a seat! Tim
  19. Tim Curtis
    Thanks Jim. I have still a few things to finish. I need to mount the red ensign and a few pennants, and fix a couple of broken chain plates. Then we are all done. My next boat is the Master Korabel Phoenix. I have set up a build log here. But not updated recently. T.
  20. Tim Curtis
    By the way, in the midst of discussion about rope weights, I think we forgot to say your model looks absolutely stunning. Love seeing photos of the whole thing. Your finishes are very very clean. And the limited, consistent palette of colours you have chosen to use, is very pleasing to the eye. It gives your model a classical quality. I really admire your work. Tim
  21. Tim Curtis
    Great build. Impressed by the quality of the kit. Impressed by how you built it. Just splendid! Tim
  22. Tim Curtis
    Oh my goodness. Just amazing. Your skill as a bas-relief sculptor at minute scale is unique. There cannot be many people in the world who can do what you do. I watch in awe. Hope your troubled times don't last too long. I pray for you. Tim
  23. Tim Curtis
    I have used vellum tracing paper with good outcomes. I stain it with tea (earl grey works best as it is not too red) and then dry it pressed inside blotting paper in a big book. Here is a recent one (dry mounted). It has the slightly translucent quality of sailcloth, but also holds its shape well. I scratch on the seams with the back of a scalpel. Also, I pit some fine steel wire in the edges, where the paper is folded over to help it hold its shape. Also works quite well if you wet it, and furl it. Apologies for photobombing your build log!
  24. Tim Curtis
    Slowly progressing to finish line. I created a Red Ensign on 50gsm tracing paper...two sheets laminated together with CA, with ensign printed on each, on my home printer. Probably a bit large....but I like it that way. Then added rope trim using 0.5mm thread. Furls are quite easy to form without any special treatment. Happy with result. Photos of it temporarily attached to model.
  25. Tim Curtis
    I have completed the pumps, which are now installed. Also mounted her on a proper base and pedestals. I am going to leave her half rigged (foremast only) for the moment. So a few repairs of chainplates and deadeyes to do, and pendant flag to be hung, and then I will be finished....definitely in the final furlong.

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