garyshipwright

Thank's every one and all the likes. Alan the planking on the stern it self is ebony and the curve was not to bad, but when I tried it on the bottom pieces of the quarter gallery, no matter how much I soaked and heated it, it always seem to break, so I switch to pear and blacken them to match up with the ebony. One thing for sure it turns every thing black. Brian hope that the build will help you along in yours. Thanks to Mark there is some photo's of the Warrior model in the Gallery of Contemporary Models from Museums and Private collections that he has taken of the model and the best thing is he takes them through the eyes of a model builder. Should come in real handy thats for sure. Gary

Here is a few on the cannon's. Hope you enjoy them. Gary

Thanks Mario and Dave. Mario your so right sir and work has kept me away from Montagu but I do look in on the site, to help me get through those times when there wasn't enough time to do any ship building. Things have eased up a bit the last month and have been working on the stern and the thirty two pounders which have all been installed and have a few more tackles to make up for them. In the mean time the stern upper and lower counter curves have kept me busy trying to get their curves just right. Seems every time I thought I had it right, found a part that didn't look just right and tore it off just to redo it. To me if those curves are not right your eyes lets you know, and every thing else is built upon those curves. So getting them right was high on the list. A make or break sort of item. Some thing that helped was the ideal that I got out of Davids new book the fire ship comet, the quarter gallery berthing piece on page 111. He talks about how he mount this on Comet so figure I would try it. After making 3 of them, I finally manage to make a port and stbd that fit the bill and this in turn help big time in getting her upper and lower counter curves to lay proper. In the process the top plank on the lower counter was a little shy on meeting the rail of the lower counter and had to make a new one. Not glueing the planks in place and held by a small amount of glue on tree nails made pulling it off a lot less nerve racking. One thing about building up the curves of the quarter gallery is figuring out the curve of them. But there is hope for finding their curve at least the one I came up with. English plans only show one pattern for this curve and that is on the quarter deck level, but is bigger then the ones that fit the upper deck. Taking their size off of the stern and sheer view and using the quarter deck pattern one can get it real close in size, which I do believe Montagu is just right. Sorry about the long delay in a up date. Gary

Here is the ideal behind getting a Byrnes tool, weither it be his table saw or his sander, they are outstanding tools and one will get many years of happy returns on them, much like me. . Now to give you other ideals, about buying them is to become able to buy larger timbers and save money. Yes they cost up front but think of the savings, like shipping and not having to worry about having the right size piece as your building your ship. To me I enjoy working with tools and, good ones for sure, like the Byrnes table saw. Here's a question, can you walk out in your back yard, cut off a tree limb and convert it to timbers for your ship? I really like be independent for relaying on buying stuff and having to wait on things. The money saved from buying ready made timbers allows me to buy those things that I don't have time to make or that new book from seawatch. Of course some will still buy ready made timbers which I have nothing against, much like buying a kit, or a cannon, or even a light like what Chuck offers which I do ever once in a while . Does one need a shop full of tools to build a ship, shoot no, all one needs is a good knife. Isn't that what the POW builders use. That is if they were allowed one. It does come down to each of us to ask that question do I need a Byrnes table saw? For me the answer was can you get it here yesterday. O and the back yard was my mother who was wanting her holly tree cut down which I was more then happy to do. Gary

little smith . Its a good one. Gary

Hi Remco. Great work sir and have a question for you. The pins you have stuck in the soldering board, what are they and if purchase when can one buy some? I got one of these soldering boards after seeing yours but so far have not found the pins. Thank you sir and keep the photo's of your build coming. Gary

Hi Siggi and thank you very very much. Not being able to visit places like the NMM to view the models and how items are built up such as the stern, one has to depend on books to help fill in the pieces. Having all the carvings in place brings in to question on how the pieces underneith all fitted together before they were added. Having books like David A Swan class and now the Comet along with build logs such as yours, Mark and others, photo's like the egmont, and dragon really helps those of us that are land lock. Once again thank you sir. Gary

Hi Siggi Thank for posting your build and your building of your stern is a help to building Alfred's. Didn't expect to see John Franklin Egmont here but was wondering do you have any more photo's of the port side stern and quarter galleries, I have allways had a big interest in how her stern and port looked on this side but have never seen any photo's of her, and once again thank you. Gary

Hi Larry. Just to let you know if your building Alfred doing it Hahn way then your be framing her the French way. English ships framing at that time were built using bends, two frames whose floor and first futtock's touched but in between was filled in with filling frames, a frame built up of first futtocks, third futtocks and top timbers, or floors, second futtocks and fourth futtocks. On Alfred, her dead flat frame was made up of first futtocks with floors on both sides. As they went fwd you would have a first futtock followed by a floor and going aft you would have a first futtock follwed by a floor. Have included a photo showing Alfred in frame. A good book which will be a big help is Peter Goodwin Sailing Man of War will help fill in the gaps on how the framing was done depending on the time frame. Any more question sir and will be more then happy to answer them. Gary

Yes I do believe that Sheerline is well worth the cost and enjoy ever minute I get to use mine. Tons of extra to. Gary

Hope no one mind a stranger joining in but do agree with Ed, it does look like the joint line between the apron and stem. Gary

Allan all I can say is thank you, the book is outstanding and a very good addition to ones library and as other's have said is a lot easier to read then Steel and SR. The cost of them compared to your new book is a steal and should come in handy to researches and builders of ships. Thank you for this and with out folks like your self, my library would be a lot smaller. Gary

Hello every one and thank you very very much. Your comments mean a lot. Gary

Thanks B.E. Gary

More, I need MORE. On the other hand I can wait and outstanding job Michael. Its always a pleasure to see your updates. Gary

Thanks Daniel, Ollie and Francis. It really makes one fill good to hear all of the nice comments from every one. Sharing her build with you folks is has much a joy as building her. Thanks again. Gary

Your very very welcome Robin Hi Mark and thank you. I ran across the tubes between the pump cisterns while researching their make up. Doesn't seem that not all of the cisterns had two dales per side. As far as your helm port sir, am sure you will figure it out. One difference I noticed is that I ran my stern timbers all the way up and you cut your's off at the quarter deck. I found this easier getting them align and hope that when I finally get around to this part that they will help me get every thing stright and level. Gary

Hi Mark. You do seem to be well on your way to having a outstanding and beautiful stern and walk sir. It does take awhile to work this out and am sure once you do it will be a good lesson for every one in the process of building the ships stern. Gary

Thanks Robin, Michael, and Pat. Its allways nice to hear a good word from you folks. Robin the ideal came from Daniel Victory build, HMS Victory by dafi - To Victory and beyond, in the kit section, who deserve's the credit on this one. If you go to post 157, page 11, he will show you how he made up the bucklers for the end of his pump dales. The bucklers make a lot of sense since thats what they used around the hawse holes and am sure they kept out a ton of water. The other thing about them is it would help lock the ends in place so the pressure of the water going out would keep them from moving all over the place, much like turning on a water hose and not holding on to the end of it. Gary

Thanks Tim, Robin B, Alan and all the likes. Tim I do have to go to the store and buy grog every couple of days, those guys can put away some grog thats for sure. Robin as far as I know the cranks or brakes were made to be locked together when needed and stored when not. Most show it because its a nice detail to show. As far as the scupper holes they probably could have done a couple of things. From most of the research I have done on them they probably had leather flaps on the outside that closed off the opening for most of the smaller scuppers,acting like one way values, and at least for the pump dales scuppers, on the inside fitted with bucklers, flat boards to prevent water from coming in, along with the leather flaps on the outside. From what I can tell most were made up of wood lined with leather or lead pipes that seem to have a curve in them or be at a 25 degree angle from the deck to the outside hull. The plans that are shown at the NMM shows the pipes as being curved and made in two parts to be hooked together. I remember reading about discharging straight on to the deck which would make sense being that there was more scuppers that the water could flow to. Did come across one plan and it had a plug that they used to plug up the scupper with. If you want to look at this it is plan number ZAZ6880. Maybe it was used to help keep the trash out when they were doing field day.Hope this answer you question Robin. Gary

Thanks Jay, David B, druxey and Sos. Jay the hands are not to bad, and the misses does keep me busy around the house fixes this and that. As far as the capstan and pawls, yes the one at the bottom. As far as the history on them, John H Harland wrote a book on them, called Capstans and Windlasses and talks about the drop pawl more or less replacing the sliding pawl and mention a fellow named Eckhardt. Another place that I found more information on the 1770 date was found in his book and in Sea Watch book Message in a Model, Ab Hoving. It talks about a fellow named Eckhardt who was known at the guy who invented one of the biggest improvements to the capstan. The invention was tested on the English Ship Defiance, a 64 gun warship in 1771. Of course his invention didn't catch on but his invention did have drop pawls. Also shown in Goodwin book, Constructing the English ship of war, which mine is out in the workshop, shows drop pawls on capstan earlier then 1770. Am not sure of the page number and as soon as I get back out there will add to this post. Do believe that druxey mention a article in the NRG but can't remember which one at the moment but will add that to, that is as soon as I can find it. Gary

Thanks Jay and Mark. It does seem that with the planking done, it put me on a heading to be able to add the rest of the parts and pieces to the deck. At the moment am trying to figure out how to take better picture's of her. Seems that some of the items are not in focus so figure I would break out the trypod and take a better picture. Found the trypod but would you believe it if I told you that the quick release plate is missing. Going to have to make a new one and then I can maybe get a better picture. Thanks again guys. Gary

Well guys figure I couldn't let February end with at least a small update. Have been working on the cannons and a few other items such as the chain pumps, capstan along with redoing the helm port and upper deck transom. It seems the more I looked at those items the more I wanted to redo them and seems that that's what I did. Also added three more of the chain pump sprockets and not hoods along with the chain pin's for the capstan and drop pawl's. Did Montagu have the drop pawl's, maybe yes may be no, butt does seem that they were being used in the fleet as early as 1770 so figure I am safe adding them. Enjoy the photo's folks. Only 6 more 32 pounder's to add and the guns for this deck will be done. Gary

Alan It does seem that the NMM has a contract for both, the Bellerophon of the Arrogant class of 1758 for the Bellerophon of 1786, Loc-GK11, Box-1, No-114 and the Elephant also Arrogant class 1758, Elephant of 1786 Loc-GK11, Box-3, No-135. Should be a help in ordering them and give you much needed information on sizes of timber such as the frames, keelson, and other main timbers. It is also great when you can even find one for the ship your building Gary