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Heronguy

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Everything posted by Heronguy

  1. I've become a fan of pinning when there is a very small surface for adhesive yet the possibility of stresses on the part. Good luck with your efforts.
  2. The copper plates provided in the MarisStella kit are very nice - what it will be like applying them I won't speculate on other than to note that the foil tape is easy enough to work with but doesn't stand up to any kind of abuse. Mill backlash problem is improved. I hope next week to get into the new shipyard and try it out to see if it is sufficiently improved for my needs!
  3. Don, I'm thinking sealing to maintain the bling but I haven't looked into what people use for that - any suggestions offhand? I struggled quite a bit to make a jig that worked for the nail heads. I'm ok with the current result but subsequently discovered if I had use a different bottom layer (possibly cut out of a self-healing mat) on the jig then I'd get much sharper nail head impressions - these ones are very poorly defined - distance helps in viewing them!. I'll redo that when it is time to copper the Syren. I'll also redo the actual nailhead jig to get the spacing of the nailheads a bit more uniform - I used the CNC mill to drill holes but was having significant backlash problems that I hadn't figured out how to address at that time. !No challenge for the Stefano copper plates though is there!
  4. Long absence and limited progress. Tonight I finished the coppering. Learned a bit about how I want to do it next time! Nevertheless I like the overall look and I'm pleased to have done it.
  5. Don, So glad to see the Stefano on you workbench. Isn't it great to see the hull planked - I personally like the planking step a lot! I've made the promise to myself to finish outfitting a workroom in my shed before I will start the Stefano - I was drywalling today so perhaps in a week or 2 I can open up the box and start following your "tutorial" I'll try to leave the 10 month gap out but I won't promise not to follow your example!! Please keep up your wonderful build logs - I learn much from them.
  6. I haven't got the Sherline Accessories Shop Guide - I guess I should order one. I wonder it the same description as found on line in the tech note "Adjusting Backlash on Sherline handwheels" It is an 11 page document with colour photos of steps involved - The release date on it is 3/31/17 so it is certainly up-to-date! I've done a search through Sherline, Youtube, and Google for information various ideas on backlash. Found a couple of useful links.
  7. As I mentioned just above, I've got the backlash down to around 10thou. May be good enough for my purposes?? I gather from various commentaries on Sherline that I should expect to get 2-3 thou so I still have a long way to go. I was somewhat surprised that both the X and Y axis backlash were so large given that the machine was effectively unused previously. I looked at Fusion 360 briefly and it is certainly well recommended. I guess I'm a skeptic when software companies offer free for now access to their products. That being said I haven't made any significant commitment to the others and the Fusion 360 tutorials look extensive and useful. I'm a dyed-in-the-wool Mac user but I was so frustrated with FreeCAD tutorials (because the mouse gestures were much more convenient that the equivalent mac-mouse option) that I went and purchased a used windows laptop so I could run PC versions. One toe over to the darkside!
  8. The mill I bought already has the newer backlash locks. I tried just adjusting them to take out backlash the feed screw would just bind up if I tightened the backlash nut. Taking the slide right off and lubricating and repositioning everything made a reasonable improvement but still in the 10 thou range.
  9. I’ve experimented a bit with FreeCAD and downloaded VisualCAD from MECSoft but not really gone far with either. Although I’m very comfortable with g-code programming I’m finding CAD concepts a bit foreign. So so far I’ve used the mill to prototype a coppering nail jig and a mast supports for the Essex crossection I’m building now. In the process I ran into some problems with the mill -seems like the backlash on both x and y axes was of the order of 30 to 40thou! I finally found the time to disassemble the slide and re-lubricate the mill. Now the backlash is better although still more than I’d expect. I have to rerun my code examples to see if the results are good enough for my modelling needs. Although I haven’t done much with CNC I think it going to be really useful. I’m glad I got the CNC version!
  10. Nice work David. Seeing how well your cast metal boat worked out has given me some motivation and enthusiasm to try to make something respectable out of the ones that came with my BNII. I love the colour scheme on your ship by the way.
  11. Oops! I tried to vote Marisstella for best plans having spent a few hours going over them this week. I must have hit Bluejacket by mistake - I have no experience with Bluejacket so my vote is not informed!
  12. Much too long since I posted any progress on the Syren. After my whining about the finish on the gunwales I have sanded hem down and used finer paper to achieve a finish that I'm pleased with. I'm leaving it for the now. I've done a couple of attempts at a coppering jig. I tried the insulin needles but wasn't having great success. I've got a solution that looks like it will work for me but haven't finished it yet. I'll be back! But primarily I've been struggling with the transom. I didn't like the way it was coming together - - so I tripped it off and did a "redo". I think some of my problem with the transom came from the shaping of the stern filler blocks. I don't have a good 3D sense until I see it finished and as a consequence I don't believe the shape of my ships stern is very accurate. Rather than the straight planks I tried 1st time I've bent the planks this time. The transom piece from the kit has a curve at the bottom that I matched. I'm happier with the results now but until I plank the hull I won't really be sure how it will all fit together. My finger are crossed that It will be OK. I like planking the hull so I'll be glad to get off the stern!
  13. Welcome Mike. Certainly sounds like you're well past the beginner stage! (I just started a few months ago and don't have much under my belt yet). My experience on this forum is that most communications takes place through the forums and on your build log. There is a mechanism (private messaging) that allows 1 to 1 conversations but it is generally a benefit to all to have the dialogues about modelling in the open forum. I've learned that there are a lot of very skilled and helpful members and that there are also a lot of of who are "climbing the learning curve". I've always enjoyed that the dialogue here is supportive not critical. Join in!
  14. I bought some of each when I got my sander but haven't found any reason to use anything but 180 grit so far. I've been sanding primarily basswood, Swiss pear, and walnut. Any need for coarser or finer and I've sanded by hand. It would be a bit of a pain to be swapping sanding disks very often.
  15. And quite a large club it is! Wonderful to see another build starting. Good luck and bon voyage!
  16. Floyd, I suspect that Chuck's note about drill size was in millimetres not inches - .55mm which will be a #73 or #74 bit. The reference in the instructions was 0.55 not .055(page 24) It sounds like you've already done a experiment with a #70 so I suspect you've got it (tre)nailed.
  17. I purchased the older version less than a year ago - I believe it is kit #20500. As far as I'm concerned there is nothing wrong with it! There are differences - I downloaded the newer instructions in case they would help but ended up relying on the original instructions and on a practicum by John Earl - see my build log if you want a link to John's practicum. John made a number of alterations to more closely model the real Bluenose II. Whichever one you choose I expect you will enjoy it! I'll follow along on your build log when you start.
  18. I'm pleased to see another Syren build getting started - I'm pulling up a chair. I've got one going too and was motivated by similar factors - detailed instructions, beautiful ship, and lots of build logs to motivate and help! You're off to a good start.
  19. My limited experience here on MSW tells me that there is a great range of knowledge and skills between the members. As a "newish" modeller I find that I can't absorb the techniques I read about until I have a use for them. Then, finding them in build logs when I want them is more matter of happenstance than recalling where I might have seen them a few months ago. I've started my personal list of members whose build logs I will refer back to for ideas - you are on my list! Please keep posting details of the techniques that you are " the only builder here that didn't know about the technique" for all the rest of us who also don't know about them!
  20. Very timely Mike. Thank you. I spent some time yesterday wondering how to attach my 1st ever futtock. Looks like I now have an approach to try! I do appreciate your tutorials in this build.
  21. What a lovely build Ian. Congratulations on an outstanding ship. You have a great reason for a deadline - Bon Voyage!
  22. No progress over the past three weeks. Wedding to attend, visitors to host and chores to be attended to. I can cut some wood for the waterways - I was just surprised I didn't find it in the parts list or with the wood provided. Back to the shipyard this week as visitors gone, my daughter is back to school and my spouse is off at a weaving workshop. Clear sailing! I hope Olivia is letting you get some sleep!
  23. That is a lot of wood - your can do a lot with that! I wouldn't presume to tell you which kit! There don't seem to be many kit versions. I've only seen the Artesania Latina Bluenose II (and that was an old version of the their offering) and a 1:100 scale kit from Billings. The AL kit was fine. The BB kit isn't for a serious build in my opinion (it was a fine starter boat for me). Then of course there are the Bluenose kits but if your wood is from the II refit then that's likely where yo'll want it to end up? Are you considering a scratch build?
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