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Everything posted by Timmo

  1. Thanks Jerry I had wondered about that so I'll err on the side of caution. There should be enough tape left. It only took one roll so not much more than the price of a can of aged copper metallic spray to get the real thing.
  2. The coppering is finished. I'll likely age it with some sort of patina, as per the other fine builds on this site, then a protective clear coat.
  3. Nice start Clare. I've always been intrigued by cardboard kits and wondered how it all works. I've got the plans for an Enterprize class frigate like Mercury from Shipyard that I've scaled up to 1/64 with a view to one day building in timber.... One day. In the meantime I'll watch your build.
  4. Thanks Dirk. In the meantime I'd had a re-read of your coppering section and followed your lead. The rows from harrier follow each other from the keel up. It means more individual placement at the bow but it's no drama. I had done a few rows with spilling but it didn't look right so was removed.
  5. A question on coppering for those with more knowledge than me- The first three rows are on following the line of the keel. I can see the tape already fighting this line in an effort to maintain its natural line and it's only going to to become more pronounced. The options are to continue following the line and do short lengths of tape to allow for lateral adjustment. Note the cruiser's stern is quite a bit deeper below the waterline than the bow so more plates in a vertical stack on one end than the other. Or... Add a gore line as per pic above demonstrated with a plank in order to allow the copper to maintain the natural run of a plank line. This will enable tape to be all applied in largely single strips and less fighting against it. But it will also mean a bit more noticeable spilling of copper plates at bow and stern I want to avoid the appearance of stark belts heading off at different angles and get something that looks natural like this... (The work of one of those Russian or Ukrainian masters). Advice welcome.
  6. That is one of the finest models I've seen in a long while Dan. Lovely composition of the hull elements with the framing, planking and coppering. It would be easy for this to look like a novelty cut away but you've made it look like a class act. Top work from keel to mast cap!
  7. Mass production of copper plates begins with a stamping and scoring jig made from offcuts. Line the end of the plate up with the end of the rails, stamp it and then score through the slot with the back of a blade. Another small task was making a rudder extension. This is acrylic sheet that came free as an offcut from a local supplier. It will be epoxied into a slot cut into the rudder one that is painted and coppered. Brass rods have been added for strength but will be hidden inside the slot. The extension should be all but invisible once in the water and also not too noticeable when the Harrier is out of the water. I know this because this is the second extension I've made. I took the protective cover off the first to see what it looked like and now can't find it because it's all but invisible.
  8. Thanks Jerry, your instructions were very helpful around coppering. I'm keen on copper over paint to get a nice aged patina and this project is a bit of a test of materials and technique so given its still way cheaper than a kit another $40 for the real thing looks like small beer. Did you use any CA glue or anything else to stick it down or just rely on the adhesive backing and if so how has it lasted? I've tried a test run as below and the adhesive bond feels very solid considering the tape is very thin. I'd like to just do this and maybe a dash of CA here and there but worst case scenario is applying a thin coat of resin to it after the patina is how I want it. I'd rather avoid the resin though. Anyway, as per the inventive Jerry Todd and a few other builders like Fam http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8675-brick-de-24-by-fam-scale-148-1809-pob/page-7, a stamp was made from timber with holes drilled for the small brass pins that come with ship kits. The plate size 1:1 is about 13-14inch x 4 ft. The vertical plate join is scribed onto the copper tape with the back of a blade. A small overlap on the horizontal edges was tried on the uppermost join but not on the bottom. It's so imperceptible I don't think I'll bother with overlap as I'm going for the 3ft rule - if it looks ok from that distance it's worked. The tape is Masterfoil plus copper tape from venture tapes. It's aimed at the stained glass industry and is 3/8inch or 9.53mm wide.
  9. Part of me wants to spray it for the easy way out but I have some copper tape that I'll have a go at simulating a nail pattern on for plating. I'll experiment with that as I'd love the look of an aged patina on the hull but if it doesn't look right it'll be spray.
  10. Thanks for the kind words. Next step is remaking the bow port doors. I made some a couple of months back and have managed to put them somewhere safe and not be able to find them again.
  11. Another day of masking, spraying and finally touch ups by brush and the exterior paintwork is largely finished. It's just some overstay on the red ochre and gunports to finish. I'm faily happy with the result.
  12. Hi john, Nice project. What's the size of the model? Although it's cheaper here in NZ depending on quality the timber price sounds reasonably fair given postage to the US and it'll probably be a nice clean piece. It's ironic that I have bought timber for boatbuilding from the US and here you are importing something that seems relatively common to me. I guess we always want some thing exotic. Like most nz native timbers Totara is protected and can't be felled commercially anymore as vast tracts of it were on the way to disappearing before it was stopped a few decades back. Totara available now is either recycled from previous use ( there's still a lot of fence posts out there made from this lovely dense timber) or single trees from private stands. Let me know if you need any reference pics of waka. A fleet of probably the most impressive in the country are based not far from me and are brought out for a big annual regatta. They are quite a sight when on the river. The newspaper I work for has pics on file that while showing them manned and in the water should also show some carving detail. I could send some if it's any help. Wayne
  13. The main paint work has been applied. Yellow went on first, followed by a day's worth of masking and then the black. I'm using a brand called ironlaq which looks to be aimed at the crowd painting on the side of railway boxcars in the dead of night but it's quite good. I ran out of the black and had to use a rust-oleum black which takes much longer to dry and harden. A downside of a yellow boat was that it was easy to miss masking bits with yellow tamiya tape. Lots of spot touch ups to be done yet, especially on the head rails. I'm not showing the finished version until I'm happy with those. But in the meantime. Here's the stern, just in need of some touch ups on the lettering as it looks like a deco font without the TImes Roman serifs ...... Yes her name is Harrier. She was an active little vessel, although fir built, and served a spell in home waters before being involved in operations in the East Indies. She foundered in the Indian Ocean in about 1809, I think, with the loss of all hands. May my Harrier not share her fate.
  14. The deck is now finished. Treenails were done with holes drilled and filled with putty with the excess scraped off. I didn't want them to be overpowering so went with fairly small holes and a light coloured filler. They disappear from sight at a distance and certain angle and reappear when you change your view. It adds nice interest. The varnish has turned the grey card caulking blacker than I would have liked but waterproofed it all nicely. I'm happy with it. The join in the margin plank was a little too close to one of the plank nibs for aesthetic purposes but it'll be covered by a carronade so problem solved. Next task is adding the spirketting and scuppers and then the gratings.
  15. Yes, I'm enjoying the larger scale. It's a bit easier to add the detail but given the working nature of the model I'm not labouring total realism on everything. I hope I can go back to something smaller one day.
  16. The false deck has been added with 2.5mm ply. This was done in sections and a hollow near the bow filled. The access hatches had their own ply covering and sit flush with the rest of the deck. The idea is they almost disappear when in place and planked. Planks are cut from a basswood sheet with dark grey card glued to one side. This gives a consistent line for caulking which is more of a scale colour than straight black. The wood is a bit soft but it'll have a solid covering of resin or varnish to protect it. The deck has been marked in the four butt shift pattern based on where the hatches and other deck furniture will be and the first planks laid on straight over the hatches. The hatch joints will be cut through once more planks are laid on and also mast holes recut. The central planks are laid full length as deck furniture placement means no plank joins would be visible. The margin plank was drawn on the deck and traced with the pattern transferred to a basswood sheet for cutting. Care was taken to achieve symmetry on these as at the bow as from plank 9 on either side they will be joggled into the margin plank. This pattern was drawn on the deck to make sure both sides lined up. Lots of repetitive planking ahead but it feels rewarding.
  17. A coat of primer has been sprayed on and the major imperfections filled. Main coat of nelson's yellow on black awaits. The masts are presently varnished timber with black. I think I'll leave them like that as a nod to the fact the boat is not plastic. Mast rings etc to come.
  18. Thanks bob, I'm sure I obtained the idea from someone else as there are very few original ideas out there. It'll have a rubber sealing strip and some arrangement to secure them down snugly. I'm hoping to apply some paint soon which will make it look very different.
  19. Thanks Steven, The height from keel to the mainmast tip is about 1100mm. The vessel does fit in the back of the wagon when on a lean. I thought while planning the project that it wouldn't without masts lowered but there you go. Even so with the top gallant and top masts lowered once the fids are removed it'll take at least 300mm more off so no problems on the transport front. When she finally gets on the water I've got plans to mount a go pro on her. Hopefully it won't be footage of a titanic-esq maiden voyage.
  20. It has been a while but there has been some progress in the shipyard. With the hull largely complete attention has turned to the masts. These were again cut from matai and mainly shaped by hand with a small plane. With a diameter of 14-16mm and length of over 360mm for the lower masts they were a bit big for my small proxxon lathe. This was quite easy to do by hand and very satisfying. The top gallant masts were turned from fibreglass rod as wood would not have the strength at this scale and if anything will get damaged in transit it'll be the top masts and jib boom. The fighting tops were made from 3mm ply which was glassed on both sides for strength. These were up scaled slightly from petrejus' plans after reading about size differences among some forums of SC&H kits. The batons and trestle trees were cut with the Byrnes table saw which allowed some very close tolerances and ensure everything fits together very closely and is quite strong without being stuck together. Working fids will allow the masts to drop down for transport although a test fitting has surprisingly revealed the vessel fits (with a list) in the back of the family SUV. The hounds are yet to be added but won't take long. The masts have been stepped in boxing with the help of their square bases and secured with a wood screw so if disaster strikes it's all remove able. It isn't pretty but practical. Also the rebated frames of the access hatches have been added, giving a final indication of how much room there will be to get at the mechanical entrails - hopefully it'll be enough but I'll aim to have that planned out and largely installed before the majority of the decking goes on.
  21. Looking very good indeed Jason. I'm wondering why you bought the kit now this is heading into scratch build territory with such good results.

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