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Timmo

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Everything posted by Timmo

  1. Timmo
    Good point Jason. I've served it and it looks ok on 1mm thread. The first starboard shrouds are installed. I'll post some pics when I get a mo.
  2. Timmo
    Having a go at the shrouds. AOTS Suggests they are served down to the catharpins but am I right in thinking the foremost ones should be served all the way down to the deadeye as per Steel's rigging masterwork? Suggestions welcome.
  3. Timmo
    Thanks for the post Shannon. Very helpful indeed.
  4. Timmo
    Nice deck Jason. That's worked out well.
  5. Timmo
    Thanks Juergen. Joe, feel free to overtake and clear path for us both through the tangle of rigging ahead.
  6. Timmo
    I can't be the only member of MSW seeing the irony in wishing I had an easier to obtain and cheaper source of boxwood for the next project as I hack my way through piles of buxus semperverins hedge every spring...
  7. Timmo
    Very nice progress Juergen, I've just picked up a very cheap and good copy of Rif Winfield's book and can see you are making a fine job of the Leopard. what timber are you using on this build?
  8. Timmo
    The blocks have all been attached and the lower masts and bowsprit have been stepped. There are still a few items on the hull to finish such as the lids for the rear gun/light ports, anchors, fish davits etc. The big project of the weekend has been making a serving machine. This was done using the very helpful post from MSW member robnbill who describes it well. See it here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5980-serving-machine-from-scratch/?hl=serving The gears slip a little sometimes due to the size of the teeth (cheapest I could find at reasonable price) and my lack of accuracy on the drill but I'm happy with it and like the little turned rimu handle done on the lathe.
  9. Timmo
    I prefer the metal as it follows the AOTS but the wooden version doesn't look out of place at all and you've executed it well. I'm hoping to step the masts on my Granado this weekend in a vain attempt to stay ahead of you.
  10. Timmo
    Nice looking channels there Joe. Very crisp in boxwood.
  11. Timmo
    Nice work so far Denis. Any thoughts on what you'll use for planking on this one given you've got all that Byrnes hardware at your fingertips? I've picked up a byrnes tablesaw and been experimenting with some timber and found plain old macrocarpa has a lovely honey colour that looks rather nice. I've knocked up some sample fittings like riding bitts and it's pretty nice with a careful touch that doesn't splinter edges. Smaller fittings and turning probably wouldn't suit as it frays and the end grain isn't stable. Matai would probably be better for detail. I'm thinking there's a combination of native timbers that might suit most needs if I look hard enough. Any input welcome.
  12. Timmo
    Nice work Ray, it's looking great.
  13. Timmo
    Nice work Joe. Your scroll is a bit fuller than mine. I like it. You'll feel the full reward when the catheads are fixed and the head is all done. Have you test fitted a dowel for the bowsprit? It's easier to jake any adjustments with file at this stage.
  14. Timmo
    Ha! 1/35th armour also helps. Even the mud and rust
  15. Timmo
    Fine looking timber there Grant . You and your colleagues will make a fine job of this build I'm sure
  16. Timmo
    Nice. There was a bit of a commemoration with frigate sail past in Wellington a couple of weeks ago to mark the centenary of the departure of the NZ expeditionary force.
  17. Timmo
    Agreed on Future- they sell it as Johnson's Kleer here and you can ladle it on as it's so cheap.
  18. Timmo
    Another thought. It pays to test fit those free standing quarter figures as I found they sat at a slightly different angle to each other and their bases once held in position. It took some careful bending and a little fillet cut from an inside foot position on one to get them to match up. Also a bit of the inner facing of the plinth was filed off on each to get them angled right to the stern. This was different for each due to differing shapes and it was frustratingly time consuming to something close to symmetry on my castings. A lot of paint was lost in this process as a result and there's a lot of touch ups to be done once the Granado is finished.
  19. Timmo
    Great tutorial there Joe- I felt like I was back on a plastic modelling website of the sort I'd abandoned for wooden boats! Those skills of yours from other hobbies are coming in handy. Those castings are looking great under your brush. I find that while turpentine thins well for consistency it often attacks whatever is underneath even if it's an acrylic or other non solvent base. Maybe it's the cheap hardware store variety I've used. After some experimentation I've become fond of a generic enamel thinner or white spirit rom a local hobby store as it's more forgiving on undercoats. Windsor and Newton paints are great fine grained media to use and I'd go with them very time but with a bit of patience and care I've had good results from $2shop Chinese oils also.
  20. Timmo
    That's a fine end to a great build mobbsie. Well done
  21. Timmo
    Thanks Jason, mike and all. The yard was turned down from the recommended kit dowel which from memory was about 5 or 6mm and the central section squared off with a blade and file before the octagon was completed. The kit suggests building up the octagon with black paper on some smaller yards but I used a dowel a couple of mm larger and filed it down. It seems a lot less fiddly.
  22. Timmo
    A lot of boring mast work has meant no updates for a while but here's where we are at. The masts were stained to match the rest of the walnut in the kit using very diluted admiralty stain. Main topgallant mast freshly turned and some kit stock as an example. The mainmast cheeks are ply so the faces were painted to hide the laminations. The main yard before painting. Here's the finished result with wooldings on the mainmast and bowsprit rigged at bottom. A new half circle sprit sail saddle was turned from kit stock to replace the ply version which didn't fit too well. The yards etc ere painted with the airbrush to save time, my paint stocks were low but I managed to get caldercraft's admiralty black to flow through the airbrush with some isopropyl alcohol to dilute. The hawse cables and messenger have also been rigged. The thread was lightly stained with dilute walnut stain to give it a more subdued colour. I wish I'd done this with the gun rigging but the difference shouldn't be that noticeable once a mass of rigging is on. New messenger snatch blocks were made from stock walnut as the kit ones were either absent or had been lost in the 2.5 years since the kit arrived. I've tied bowsprit and mizzen rigging and the mainmast is the next stop before some masts will be stepped.
  23. Timmo
    Nice wok Joe. Quicker and nicer than mine.
  24. Timmo
    Much better result there Joe. It's always worth the effort if you aren't happy with the first attempt.
  25. Timmo
    That foc'sle looks great Joe. Agree with your thoughts on the walnut colouring. I've just been finishing masts and yards (pics posted when it's worth showing) and luckily had some nice light walnut from a previous kit to make cleats to match the bowsprit, which had been in turn stained to match the rest of the kit. The supplied rod was way too dark. That's the trouble, and beauty of these pre-Nelson ships - not much painted over so harder to hide the botches.

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