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Posts posted by Keith Black
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Will, welcome to MSW. I'm following your build log, looks great.
- mtaylor, Edwardkenway and Ryland Craze
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Maliba, I'm not sure it wouldn't look better if the entire hull were painted.
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From what little I know about Pocher models, the Rolls Phantom is not one of the more popular models. Consequently parts for the Rolls are going to sell for less (or they should with the exception of tires and spokes) than the more popular models. I'd like to see someone buy that kit and make a model from what's there plus what styrene is required. That would be a kick in the pants build.
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"Missing" is the keyword because it's missing the frame, tires, and possibly some of the body panels. For the price it's a good for parts but there's no way you could get a finished model from what's there, IMHO.
- Canute, Old Collingwood, mtaylor and 5 others
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Trond, burnt umber = dark brown. No, I wouldn't paint acrylic on top of oil paint, I'd stay with oil paint. To varnish or not to varnish is a personal preference. I varnish because it protects, a mat varnish is best.
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43 minutes ago, Trond said:
Anybody got any suggestion how to get that fixed?
Trond, when I've that same situation come up I've mixed acrylic craft paints to blend in the spots. In your case I'd start with burnt umber and add a small bit of red. If it's too dark add a small bit of yellow. You'll have to play with the mixture till you make a satisfactory match. For me, it's a lot of fun trying to mix up a suitable match.
The ship is really looking nice, you're doing a great job.
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Mauro, welcome to MSW. Your model engine is a beautiful, I look forward to following your model ship build when started.
- JeffT, mtaylor and Ryland Craze
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Brian, don't sell yourself short. If the end result is as good as the now, I think they'ed be happy to have your model provided they have the space to display it.
- mbp521, FriedClams, J11 and 5 others
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That's sharp, doesn't even look close to the same ship you started with.
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Hey brother, you forgot to post the attached to boat photo, 10th step. The stove pipe turned out sweet, great job.
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bbb555, welcome to MSW. As Dmitriy said, It's never too late to start a build log. It's a lot easier for someone to help you if they can see the area you're having a problem with plus we get to enjoy your work.
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Tom, Pat, Keith, and Phil, thank you for the encouraging words and thank you to all for the likes.
Today I finished the fore lower yard which looks just like the main lower yard so I'll save MSW some bandwidth and not post a photo. Because of Spring I've been in the yard a lot so finding time to work on the spars has been a challenge. When I do get a chance to work on them, I'm struggling getting the small fiddly bits positioned exactly where I want them to go. Struggling does not make the task enjoyable, obviously I'm having eyesight issues. I've tidied up the worktable and I'm going to try rearranging my lighting and if that doesn't help I'm going to order a magnifier hood. As of now I'm dependent on my reading glasses.
Everyone enjoy the warmer weather, take care, and thank you again.
- FriedClams, vaddoc, Gus M and 4 others
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Dan, what a difference. Very well done, bon reparer!
- J11 and thibaultron
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HMS Victory by Will Ferris - Caldercraft - 1:72
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Posted
Will, my experience with glue (CA) is it doesn't stick well to paint, whatever part I've glued to a painted surface always seems to pop off easily. I get away with painting first and then gluing by painting, applying poly (varnish, same thing) over the paint and then gluing the part in place. Glue (CA) holds much better to poly or varnish, IMHO. If you're not going to poly/varnish you might test paint a scrap piece of wood and glue something to the test piece and check the results for yourself.