Jump to content

Keith Black

NRG Member
  • Posts

    5,868
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Placing a British ship to scale next to her would make a pretty realistic sea battle scene as the French vessel is shot to heck. The trick is finding a somewhat damaged British ship.
  2. It's not the kilt we wonder if they wear.
  3. You're going to have to use the internet, hopefully you find someone who can help you with your ship.
  4. I don't know what the appraised value of the ship is nor do I know if there is any historical significance to the piece? If the monetary value is significant and if there is a historical aspect then I suggest letting a professional conservator do the work. If it's value is only in what it means to you and there is no historical tie, by all means, do the work yourself. If your skills are limited and you do the work yourself, know going in that you might screw something up. Knowing one's limitations is the key to success. Restoration is the last resort in the preservation of a piece and should not be taken lightly, as they say, "it's only original once"
  5. Were it I, I'd Super Glue the mast back together being extremely careful NOT to break any rigging lines if possible then find rigging line to match the original as close as possible. I'd only replace those rigging lines that are broken and if original lines droop, let them droop. Under no circumstances would I touch the paint, leave it as is. Put it under glass and enjoy the history of the piece.
  6. A damper in the stove pipe?! Are you kidding me? I am blown away by the realism, utterly fantastic. Gary, thank you for sharing.
  7. Golly geez that's funny............pre lost is beautiful! Maybe you could repurpose one of those empty off brand poly cans and label it "rudder"
  8. Since I posed the question I've sized several knots using WOP. It seems to work well with the only drawback being it takes overnight for the poly to dry and hold. At first the line looks "wet" but after the line dries it's appearance is close to original and has a natural look. In CA's favor, dry time is instant but it leaves a milky look and it seems to make the knot/line look unnatural. I've not tried diluted white glue. I am new to rigging so everything is trial and error at this point. My first whipped eye looked like the casting reel you handed back to your father the first time he took you fishing.
  9. Dang it, I should have bought Sherwin-Williams stock when I had the chance!
  10. I just came across your build while searching "buoy". What a fantastic piece of work your Pegasus is! I'll be spending alot of enjoyable time going over the entirety of your build log, thank you for sharing your skills and the journey.........Keith
  11. Speaking of wipe on poly......I've read many discussions regarding knot sizing using CA and reasons for not using CA and the seemingly preferred method using diluted white glue. Could WOP be a viable option?
  12. Don't you guys get Spring over there.........it's late here as well, we had snow on the ground this morning.
  13. Eberhard Your steam tug's binnacle (circa 1870) has Kelvin's balls, isn't that a bit early for those as Lord Kelvin didn't patent the idea until the 1880's? .......KB
  14. Karen Would you please post a photo of the ship, I would love to see your Grandpa's work. It might also help those here advise you better. I wouldn't use acetone, it will remove the paint! Mineral spirits would be as aggressive as you would want to get, as suggested, a mild detergent might be best. Keith
  15. Paul, did you ever hear back from these folks? The best thing that could happen is that it stays in the family and hopefully that's what they've decided to do but it would nice of them to respond accordingly.
  16. Horsepucky! They lie Keith, I've never gotten 4 hours dry time even at temps 70 degrees or above with 60% humidity. I've always had to wait overnight before handling or applying the next coat. The hull is drop dead gorgeous, the WOP really made her pop.
  17. I like paint as it adds realism to a ship but this hull is so very beautiful that painting it would give me a sad.
  18. Entry by Woodeater, I thought his method was pretty slick. Click on woodeather (2nd down) not Bob Cleek's at the top though that's useful information as well.
  19. I like it Paul, I like it a lot, it does make the ole girl pop. The hull planking looks ever so much better and the paint should help keep the wood from drawing moisture in the future. When I started painting the Tennessee it was a new experience for me. But, the more I painted the better I got at getting sharper lines with these ole shaky hands. One thing that really helped was WOP. It's impossible for me to get a sharp line on the first go, I beat myself to death with my first attempts. Then I sealed what paint I had applied with a coat of WOP, after it had dried I was able to go back and achieve sharper more defined lines. Because of the poly coat, if I went too far over my line, with a moist Q-Tip I was able to easily remove any unwanted over painted area. Even if the paint had dried, it was easily removed. When I'm satisfied with the paint, I seal with a final coat of poly. Each coat of paint builds up and it's easy to lose detail. I try to make my paint as watery as possible and still get pigment applied. On sealing with WOP, don't seal until all the wood that you want left natural, like the deck, has had all traces of any unwanted over paint removed. I use fairly inexpensive hobby craft acrylics, after the poly is applied, the paint is on there to stay. Keep up the good work buddy.........Keith
  20. Welp, guess that means the garage is gonna see some new brushes, a fancy airbrush, a much needed shelf for all that new paint, and a wife asking "and exactly when were you planning on painting the house Mr Believer"
×
×
  • Create New...