lmagna
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Everything posted by lmagna
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Hi Steve Bill's estimate seems pretty close. But his method is sound so it should not be too far off. I used to have the formula written down in a book somewhere but I got so used to using it I had it readily available in my mind and kind of lost track of where I had it written down. It was roughly something like length X width X depth, (at waterline) X The hull coefficient. (Think of the hull being a rectangle of cubes. But your hull is both rounded and tapered so you need to account for this. Some warships like Destroyers have a coefficient of .65 or less, some tankers can be as much as .85 or more! .70 or .75 may be good for your hull. Then you need the displacement of water in cubic inches. I always just used fresh water at .036. So your formula would go something like this; L x W x D x .70 x .036= displacement. That is if I am remembering it right. Like I said I used to have it in my mind but then I lost my mind due to lack of use! As for adding the ballast, I have always been an advocate of "Batteries = Ballast" but in your case that would possibly be more battery time than you could possibly ever use. Steel or lead shot is my next preference, placed into bags or seal-able containers. But I have been known to use bricks, rebar, (painted to resist rust) and pretty much anything laying around in the shop! I have even used empty water bottles that I filled at the pond/lake. The ones with squared sides like milk cartons are best but any will do. But as Bill has already said, low is best. Then after placing the ship into the water, or just before, put the ballast inside and secure it into place. Normally rubber bands or similar method is fine. By waiting to place the ballast until the last minute, it makes the ship much easier to transport without damage. In most cases you can do it all by yourself. Takes a while but you always have to do some last minute stuff at the pond anyway, like hooking up and testing your radio etc.- 446 replies
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- zebulon b vance
- deans marine
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You could try here; http://wp.scn.ru/en/ww15/h/1686/3 Takes a little more work to find what you may want but it is a pretty comprehensive list.
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31 years? You guys are still in the honeymoon stage! Congratulations anyway. Only 31 more to go!
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Looking on line for pictures of little girls tied to railroad tracks seems like it may just be a little kinky but who am I to say. I have lead a fairly protected life. 🙄
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I agree with Bill on the 27Mhz and even the 75Mhz. If you have even an average quality radio you will be able to get further away from the shoreline than you feel comfortable. Think of looking at a ship on the horizon! The 2.7Ghz stuff is pretty much an unknown to me as most of it came out after I was away from RC. I know of it and pretty much what it does, but I have no personal experience with it. Best to follow Bill's expertise. I do know that you probably have nothing to fear from the fountain or waves, but if it is not too much trouble take advantage of the offer of the pool if you can. I suspect that you will be adding MUCH more ballast than you expect and this will be much easier to deal with in a clean pool than a murky pond with a muddy shore. There is also the added advantage that if she ends up floating red side up for some reason, it is much easier to find the hull and even the small parts when you can see the bottom where you are sailing! No need to ask me how I know! The information of lack of penetration of the 2.7Ghz signal is new to me. The subs I built were all able to go down at least 10 or 15 feet in a clear pool without any radio problems at all. They could do the same in a lake and possibly even more but without being able to see them, why bother? Besides if they didn't come up you would not even know where to start looking for it!
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- zebulon b vance
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Does your admiral know about your browsing habits?
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I'm with Bill. I was never able to wait until the entire ship was finished to get them into the water. I always justified it by telling people that the real ships are not finished when they are launched, so why does a model have to be? I was just doing "proof of concept" trials, not playing!
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- zebulon b vance
- deans marine
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No, thank you for allowing me to live vicariously through your build by providing your frequent pictures and updates. As I have said before I am not much of a Type VII fan, but I continue to thoroughly enjoy following your build in every aspect.
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On post #240, next to last picture it looks like in the dark compartment on the lower left under the torpedo tube there is a gold fish taking up residence! VERY impressive work, this model is going to truly be a masterpiece and certainly a one-of-a-kind.
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Great work on the PE detail Denis. It is going to be a vast improvement over the original kit. Remember though that the #3 turret catapult/plane is backwards on the Revell kit and has the plane launching over the barrels. The plane in fact launched the the other way, over the back of the turret.
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Slippers or hawse pipe covers. What difference. Form follows function and they both do pretty much the same thing. Great progress Steve looking on for the continued saga.
- 446 replies
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- zebulon b vance
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Good! I am glad it is your camera and not my computer, or even worse, my eyes! It looked black on my screen as well. A VERY nice and shiny black, but black none-the-less.
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Take care OC no sense in taking a chance with the admiral's yacht while working with bummed up hands. Get well soon.
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Before you you go all out and start attacking the hull with sandpaper you may want to try plastic scratch remover. https://www.webstaurantstore.com/novus-7100-plastic-cleaner-polisher-and-scratch-remover-kit/448PN7100.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwuqfoBRAEEiwAZErCsjxgwNlbpUucdGr_yhPtmvnBGQKfxhdVwPl7-XhQDgbnFjRU57Bh9xoCc-8QAvD_BwE I had a Chevy Chaparral that had the same problem and looked like I was going to have to start all over again and I had decided to use #2 and 3 with a soft cloth first. It pretty much restored the smooth service of the paint without doing much, if anything, to the plastic, even though it went through to the plastic in some of the higher places. But it did not remove any detail at all. (Not that there is much "detail" on a 1964 Chevy Chaparral in the first place!) Anyway it may be worth a try.
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I find it kind of funny that the two pictures provided for the lighting of the model show it with the superstructure placed onto the hull backwards! Shows real attention to scale fidelity.
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Nope, afraid not Steve. The "Crapper" predates Thomas by a few hundred years or more depending on what you use as a starting point for the design. https://www.history.com/news/who-invented-the-flush-toilet The first patent predates him by over a hundred years. He was responsibel for improvements that made it less prone to clogging, and his company became noted for manufacturing them along with manholes, and of course his name will forever be associated with the design. Carl, you are just a young "Whippersnapper"! Now that I am turning 70 I somehow feel EVERYONE is a young whippersnapper! I didn't feel this old a few months ago.
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- zebulon b vance
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Thanks Mark I didn't mind some of the plumbing part so much, but waiting for a shower until it was all fixed this afternoon was NOT fun. When EVERY toilet in the house has backed up and overflowed onto the floor, (With ALL downstream contents) and no water turned on until late in the day in order to prevent more of the same I am almost certain I would not have been allowed in too many public places. I scrubbed my body with soap until I ran out of hot water and threw all of my clothing in the washing machine as soon as I finished moping and scooping up the floors! I need to buy some bleach tomorrow and clean it again!
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- zebulon b vance
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Sorry to say buy I tend to agree with Carl. They look a little outhouseish. I know it's not a word but I had a huge day fixing clogged 121 year old sewer line, and my brain just refuses to find a proper word. Now not only does my ankle hurt and is all swollen but I have blisters on the palms of my hands even after weeks of toughening them up with crutches! Happy Fathers Day.
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- zebulon b vance
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WOW Rich You certainly know how to do a good job! I have come to the conclusion that we have entered into the accident season and everyone is getting busted up to one degree or another. Take it easy and hope you are able to get back on the build soon.
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Kind of like me? No, in reality I think by their very nature and purpose in life "abused" would be a bit of an understatement. I don't think I would want a one or two ton anchor bumping up against me even once!
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There very few of the Offenhauser front engine cars that really reached out to me but there is no question that they dominated Indianapolis for years. But the Lotus/Ford drew my attention from the very beginning. It seemed to be such a leap forward in technology back in the 60s. I was also drawn to the Micky Thompson Harvey Aluminum Special in 63 and 65. The "Skateboard" car. Didn't do all that well but sure looked cool doing it!
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By far and away, the worst model car I ever built for fit was the 1/24th MPC McLaren MK 8A! I think there is possibly no way to build that car without having to leave the body sections open! I was not able to close it all up and make it look like anything other than a LEGO car. SUPER detailed kit but horrible body fit! I do have a second kit that I bought with the intention that I could possibly do better the second time around. A couple of close follow up kits could be the IMC Chevrolet Chaparral 2E, the Union models 1/25th Lola T-70, and the Heller Ferrari 330 P4. All nicely detailed cars but a bear to make the body look solid when closed up. I ended up getting #2s for all of these kits with the idea that I would try again for better results at some point.
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I was wrong the 512S and 917K kits are separate kits. My combo kit is a Porsche 907/Ferrari P4 by AMT, Which could also be made by someone else as far as I know. Just like all of the older ship re-box kits, the car kits seem to have been passed around pretty well.
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