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Everything posted by lmagna
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I'm jealous Patrick Even if I was able to make a ship as nice as you have I have no place as nice to display it! Your build has been anything but too long. I for one have enjoyed all of it and found it interesting throughout.
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I always built my own, I even helped others build what they wanted in my shop when I had it. Didn't have all the tools like people around here have but it was working space and we did OK. But building may have been more of a matter of necessity rather than choice. I never really had the funds to buy some. (most) of the kits, to say nothing of the finished ships made by some of the people I knew. Oh well, they were still fun years and good times.
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It's hard to compete against the attraction and demands of cars, girls, (Or boys) and the pursuit of higher income! But like you said, some will come back in later years just as we did.
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Eiffel Tower by Mark Pearse - father/daughter build - WOOD
lmagna replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Completed non-ship models
Mark It sounds like you have a real budding architect on your hands, or a very diversified interior decorator! Like Denis said there are any number of structural designs available in a number of mediums. One of our members just finished a card model of the Sydney Opera House. Good luck in your and her continuing efforts. I am certain that if nothing else you will be building many lasting memories. -
Eiffel Tower by Mark Pearse - father/daughter build - WOOD
lmagna replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Completed non-ship models
Incredible build Mark. Does she get to keep it in her room now that it is finished? -
Very nice results and definitely a model to be proud of whether it was a first build or not. Congratulations Patrick I still like the two BB-8s
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Way back when the only sub I knew of was the Lindburg Fleet sub. VERY basic, I think it has about a dozen parts! I built that one and then a few years later found the Aurora Type XI German Uboat. I don't know of any others until the Japanese started coming out with a number of Uboats followed by Revell. But with the giants they are making now with all the PE and 3D printed aftermarket it is a whole new game.
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That's the stuff Mark and Jack. Dries rubbery and will hold almost anything. I have used it to hold large bollards on RC tugs and never had one come loose. On one ship I had something like a 25# pull when jerking the towline and 5 or 6# constant and could pull from the rear capstan with no problems at all. It was held in place with a dab of RTV that was paper thin and about 3/4" across.
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Interesting build Ken I don't think I have ever watched RR cars built before. I'm really looking forward to the painting and weathering part!
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No they are not the same Floyd I do not know for certain what the composition of hot glue is other than it is considered a hot melt thermal plastic and by using heat to enable it to flow, (Somewhat) it does not need the solvents needed in other similar glues. It comes in different heat and hardness ranges and I would have to assume the formula would have to be different. Hot glues that I have used tend to set hard, or relatively hard as soon as they cool. RTV or silicone glues remain quite soft and rubbery, (Think bathtub calking) and usually require several hours for the solvent to evaporate from the solution to set up.
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No. Hot glue, (I am assuming that is what you are referring to rather than the glue sticks you use to glue paper in craft projects) is a different stuff and should have no affect on the circuit board. RTV is also called silicone glue by some people, normally comes in a squeeze tube, and is air drying.
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It is sad to watch the ever increasing need to bubble wrap our kids by the present generation of parents, (and anyone else with an opinion). They are missing out on so many experiences and even skills that when we were young, we took for granted. But then I suppose our grandparents said the same about our generation. I also suspect your local firecracker regulation has as much to do with the same compulsion to regulate rather than anything to do with fire danger.
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I forgot about those new Haynes manuals. In my day, (Somewhere in the post Cro-Magnon era) Haynes manuals where what you had sitting around in the garage to show you how to work on your family car! If you really wanted to fix something you got a Chiltons. I spent some time looking up the U-534 and it is a pretty interesting story. The reason they cut it up was so that they could separate the hull into three sections and allow people to navigate through the sub easier. Something that is a problem with all the submarines on display to the public. I wish they had left the ends open like in your picture so we could still see the real "insides". It was still a pretty complex restoration project.
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That's a great cutaway of the U-534. I did not know that they had done anything like that to the real boat. The only problem is that the 534 is not a Type VII but is the later larger Type IX and did not have the additional saddle tanks. I know that it was common for US subs to use sections of the ballast tanks for fuel and I think the same idea was used by other countries as well. But I am not all that certain it was used on the Type VII. I think I read somewhere that with the exception of the saddle tanks, the Type VIIs had fuel tanks inside of the pressure hull to protect them from being ruptured by depth charge attack. I have no idea if that is true, just something I read somewhere.
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Someone more knowledgeable on Type VII U Boats may have a more detailed or different explanation on the saddle tanks on the Type VII, but I was under the understanding they were added to the original hull design as additional fuel storage to increase the range of a boat that as originally designed was little more than a coastal defense submarine. Somewhat a slightly upgraded version of the WWI U Boats. The area fore and aft, above and below the saddle tanks is the actual outer layer of the ballast tanks, (The non pressure bearing layer) and free flooding areas the actual pressure hull is little more than a round cylinder that runs the length of the ship from the forward tube hatches to the after tube hatch. The conning tower also had a pressurized cylinder used as the "Attack center" but the remaining structure flooded when submerged much the same as the American Gato subs. The original Type VII as designed looked like the later Type IX only smaller. Some people also say that the original design without the saddle tanks was a ruse used by the Germans to get around what they were allowed to build under the Treaty of Versailles and the later Washington and even later London Navel treaties. Build and operate what looked to be compliant but was always meant to be altered. The Japanese did much the same with several of their light cruisers and converted them into heavy cruisers just before the beginning of WWII. Of course as fuel was used up in the saddle tanks it would be replaced with sea water and they essentially became ballast tanks as well except I do not believe they were blown and flooded each time the sub dove or surfaced, like the actual ballast tanks were.
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Same here in the US. At least for me. My dental insurance is expensive and I still have relatively high out of pocket costs over the year for what is mostly routine work.
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Looking nice Richmond This is one of the few model ships I have built twice. Once for myself and again for a friend. In both cases they were converted to RC operation and were very seaworthy and fun to operate. They also looked nice on the pond but tended to get pretty small fast!
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- northsea fishing trawler
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Better think of something quick! Just remembering that it is your anniversary will only get you so far!
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A very nice job on one of my favorite types of ships. The oil canning is nothing short of fantastic. Your skill at doing this is getting more and more refined with each model!
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Reminds me a little of my first free running ship model. My first powered model was the Lindburg Blue Devil destroyer. When I at last was able to come up with enough money to buy it I threw it together in a weekend or something and as it came with running gear and the "Cam" steering system I headed to the pond just as soon as I was able to get batteries. Needless to say the wind that day was possibly hurricane force in scale knots for the destroyer but I was rather stupid and set her in and flipped the switch anyway. After all Lindburg had designed the model for sailing, said so on the box, what could go wrong? The ship headed out to deeper water with only a slight list caused by the wind against the superstructure, but I was more interested in the destroyer like bow wave and waiting for the rudders to kick in and turn her back in. When she did start her turn it was into the wind and the combination of wind and the healing from the turn were enough to put the main deck under and she instantly started taking on water! It only took a few seconds for my proud destroyer to do her impression of the Titanic and head for the bottom. That was the first and only time I ever tried free sailing with the intent of getting the ship back. Years later I built my first RC model and discovered a whole new world.
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Shop Safety and Oops Repairs
lmagna replied to BETAQDAVE's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
For me it seems like it is more and more often these days! -
SMALL INJURY????? Your hand looks more wrapped up than my shattered ankle after the doctor did a 2 and a half hour surgery on it! Just what did you do? I am beginning to think we are going into some kind of injury season or something. Like Flu season except without the constant reminders to get your shot!
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- bomb ketch
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