navarcus

A while back you mentioned 17th century.

I know you designed the HMS Prince, but I hope it will lean towards a smaller nicely ornamented 6th rate.

There are some simple plans from the Maritime Museum of these I've liked for many years.

I was hoping to use brass (in a simpler form) for this instead of pine.

I have a 10" piece of 1/2" by 1/8" hard brass as a skeg for a Hartman Bunker Boat.

And it needs to be 3/4" lower at the middle to clear the prop -- sort of a short in height,

but long in length "Z". Is there a trick to how I bend it?

I have built the Nonsuch many times and the

pre-formed/sawdust/glue/heat-moldable cookies for the carvings 

were light, accurate and solved many problems that 3d printing 're-solved' 40 years later.

Search MSW for 'Nonsuch ketch 1650' to see how wonderfully Aeropiccola exploited this technology.

Here is a sample from this link labeled internally as 'Album created by chas.'

A 17th century kit -- something Sam Pepys may have sailed in?

Something single-footy with ribs showing and gold gilt?

Still no kits out there now for a duffer to do this. 

What about a lift version of this model as seen in the Speedwell book?

The sweet smell of Alaska yellow cedar while carving and sanding the shape. 

And the sure knowledge that no supernatural talent is needed to get to the finish line.

When I look at a book about the replica Nonsuch

built by the Hudson's Bay company there is a picture of the

captain sitting in front of a very substantial rudder trunk in his cabin.

The picture below gives a hint that this area of the Sultana replica may also have a rudder trunk.

Portia Takakjian ignited the single-foothook HMY Fubbs fire (as rebuilt 1724) 33 years ago.

Romero wrote a great book a little later and Bob Hunt made 30 nice kits after that.

Some kit-maker needs to step up and make the WW guys a worthwhile offer.

If I remember correctly, part of the genius of Art Montgomery's POF America

was that the company got two kits from one loaf of bread. Every other slice

of the carved hull was in one kit and vice versa. Lovely kit to build.

Bluejacket had a carved-out tug hull model that was fun to build.

The yellow box Fair American (solid hull) was good and I think better than the present one.

Aeropiccola's thermo-plastic wood-dust-waffles for carvings and sterns were and are still the best solution.

Sometimes the good old days were better.

The yellow box Fair American was the best hull I ever worked on. 

I can't see in my mind's eye what exactly frame 29 needs to be shaped like.

Do you have a couple of pre-glued pictures?

Very much like the wood only approach.

Thank you for the framed hull pictures; and wow aren't they something!

The Franklin book is really great and I like how page 91 illustrates simple cannon carriages.

Makes me think I don't have to do coils on my next Nonsuch, just focus on the goldleaf stuff.

Aeropiccola did such a good job with their waffle-like wood-dust cookies for the mermaids and its fully formed stern.

They are light, feel like wood, are easy to glue and thermoplastic to boot -- what was not to like?

Do you have any desire to show pictures of these designs?

Would the bitts which the anchor cables are wrapped around come apart when the anchors need to be dropped?

Not fiction, but reads like Tom Sawyer crossed with Tom Swift with turrets and shell-guns.

If I were any good at this, this would be pretty.

OTOH it was pretty simple - the bow hawse part is just solid wood.

Built 'rack of eye' almost in mid-air but with plenty of meat to sand down - more to do!

Single-foot-hook can split if not seasoned, but Fubbs kit worked up pretty well with LSS 2009 CNC cutting.

Looking at pics of Navy Board ship models, many don't have cant frames.

Did you ever consider this option for less skilled modeler? 

Water soluble and extra can be rubbed off planking with wet tissue after gaps are filled.

Right now, I am in the middle of building my third Bob Hunt Fubbs kit

and no matter how hard I try to mess up they all look good to me.

Two things learned:

I needed to season the boxwood (air dry) so that the ribs didn't shrink and separate.

And that it is well-nigh impossible to stick even the sharpest pin into seasoned boxwood.

When I browse between section 4 and 5, for a brief moment, I see a wood-like figurehead... odd.

Anyway, this is such a good idea and good choice of size. Can't wait to see the cant frames go on.

Enjoying Vanner's books very much.

His battles are never quickly done and dusted.

I would enjoy building his HMS Leonidas from Britannia's Spartan.

To read in time order (not publication order) consult www.dawlishchronicles.com for clarity.

.

A very tiny drop of water will swell the wood closing the hole. Sorry if that was already mentioned.

Nicely done!

Have built kits from these folks and they are easy and really work well in the water. 

They even have a line called 'pine wood sailors'.

https://shop.seaworthysmallships.com/

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