JerseyCity Frankie

So today I went back to Hermione and  have started forming her Fore staysail.
 
Its a new challenge again because I have never before done sails and running rigging of a period ship.
 
But so far I am statisfied with the results and I am enjoying it.

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Aren’t we lucky we’ve got the worlds best hobby? I feel sorry for other people that don’t build ship models! 

Thanks so much Denis and the "likes".
 
Work is continuing very slowly. I decided to do the lower masts next. They were done from dowel, with the head sections squared by sanding. The cheeks were cut from boxwood sheet and the trestletrees and crosstrees made from boxwood strip, as was foremast platform. The cleats were made from boxwood strip and pinned to the masts. The boom support for the mainmast was cut from sheet with strip supports. 
 
I'm struggling now with how to proceed. Working on the masts got me to really looking at the rigging plans for the first time. It was not a happy experience. There is little useful detail, and much of what there is seems at odds with usual practices of the  time as shown in Lees or Lever. Is anyone aware of a more accurate rigging plan for PdeN?
 
Bob

Can I have all your discarded parts to use in my more mediocre Victory?

Pretend the lower Mast is 100’ to the cap. With the Topmast fidded and in place the TOPROPE is fixed to the starboard side of the cap, runs through the sheave at the Topmast heel, back up to the lead block on the port side of the cap, then 100’ down to the deck. Paint the TOPROPE red at the point it’s belayed on deck to mark that portion of the rope. 
Now lower away. The Topmast has descended to deck. In order to get there, 200’ feet of TOPROPE had to run through the leadblock at the cap, with 100’ more feet to still get back to belay on deck. The TOPROPE had to be AT LEAST 300’ long to appear as it does in the second drawing. The red painted portion of the Toprope would have passed through the leadblock when exactly 50’ of the Topmast had descended need to the deck. If there was a block at that point on the line, the Mast could not descend any farther. 
Theres a chance a rig that includes tackle on the Toprope isn’t INTENDED to lower the Topmast all the way to the deck. A Toprope with tackle on it could be intended for use only in HOUSINGthe Topmast, that’s only INTENDED to get the Topmast halfway down. This was common enough and done in bad weather to reduce windage aloft in storms.

I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books. 

“Without turning it into a hedgehog  or something..”. Lol!

“Without turning it into a hedgehog  or something..”. Lol!

New progress on the herringlugger. I started to finish the outside of the hull with thousands of 'fake' rivets. For these rivets I used some glue or paint for clothes. I also gave the hull a solid layer of primer to seal the rivets. In reality the ship would have more, much more rivets but I keep it this way. Iam afraid more rivets will do more harm then good. Now I have the idea off a riveted hull without turning it into a hedgehog or something.
 
I am also starting to sealize that this ship take much more time than the smaller models that i built earlier. It seems like evything takes twice as much time. But fortunately the challenge remains great and I enjoy the building of the model and the thinking out of everything.
 
Thanks for watching, commenting and hitting the like button.
 
(Updates will take a bit longer in the future. After working as a volunteer now since January with elderly people with dementia, I got a job as a student nurse at a big healthcare organization. This after more than six years of being not capable of working because of my bad health. The training will start in february. I thank  my wife, my friends and God (and offcoarse the elderly people for stealing my heart😍) for these opportunities after so long being sick)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I made the blocks on the bow for lowering the mast while the crew shoots the gilnets.

 

 

 

 
I bought a metal-black set to blacken the brass. I really like the finish

 
And some openings for lines

 

 

 

 
And the crew in a coat of primer

I have been building a number of modern fishing vessels with pleasure, using different types of plastic, but I also wanted to build a wooden ship. It had to be a fishing ship and soon my eye fell on the Zeillogger (Saillugger). I also came in contact with someone who would like to have a logger's model and in the past two years we have searched for information, drawings and pictures. In the meanwhile I have enough material to start building.
 

 
The Zeillogger in General
 
Until the end of the 19th century people used Bomschuiten (flatbottom ships) in Holland for fishin herring. But in the latter half of the 19th a new fishing vessel came up, the logger. The design came from France but was soon taken to the Netherlands after which the design was adapted to the fishery. It resulted in light, fast ships that could quickly come to the fishing grounds and quickly returned to the port. As a result, more fishingtime was gained and the shipowners and shareholders made more money. The sailoggers were used to fish for herring with vleetnetten
 
The Fleet Fishing
 
The vleet-fishery is a herring fishing that was operated from the end of May to December in the southern parts of the North Sea. Only this fishery started until the end of May because the herring had only been sufficiently developed for consumption (maatjes-herring) and in winter the herring left the North Sea. The vleet- fishing was performed with so-called Bomschuiten (until the end of the 19th century) and then with steam or sailluggers.
 
 
 
The driftnet for this fishery are called a Vleet. This is a vertical curtain in the water and consists of 100 to 150 interconnected nets (31 meters long and 16 meters high).
These nets are connected to a long cable, called the Reep to which floats (Breels or Scottish blowing) are attached to keep the net floating. The "Reep" is attached to the ship at the end. The net has meshes that are slightly smaller than the herrings head. When the herring swims in the net, he stays stuck in the net through his gills and can not go away anymore.
 
 
 
The Vleet is turned overboard in the afternoon, which takes about 1.5 hours. The Vleet will then remain in the water for a few hours until midnight and is then hauled in and the herring goes in bins on the deck. This takes 4 to 5 hours. After this the crew takes the herring for gutting, salting, putting in tubs and storage. After cleaning the ship, it is often time to turn off the vleet again. They worked for 6 or 7 days a week and trips lasted for 7 weeks.
 
The KW140, Wilhelmina VII
 
The Wilhelmina VII was a steel saillogger with the hull made of steel. The rest of the ship is made of various types of wood. Of the same type, several were built for different shipping companies.
The logger was built in 1912 at the shipyard Gebr. Boot at Leiderdorp on behalf of the fishingcompany Gebr. The Dulk te Katwijk aan Zee. Cost was
Fl. 15,200 (Dutch guilders) and presumably she got in line with the shipping company in 1914.
 

The logger is rigged about 38 meters long. The length of the keel is 25 meters and the overall hull length is 28 meters. The height is about 25 meters. Width is 6.6 meters.
 
Tragedy
 
About the history of the Wilhelmina VII, an ink-black veil hangs for the family of the sailors with much uncertainty, sadness and misery.
On 16-2-1918, Wilhelmina VII left under the command of Captain Arie den Hollander with 5 other crew members heading towards the Doggersbank for herring fishing. Since that date nothing is ever heard from the ship and its crew.  It was assumed that the ship has hit a mine and perished.
 
 
Later it became apparent that Wilhelmina VII was destroyed with all crew on 19-2-1918 by the U-Boote UB-64 under the leadership of Kapitänleutnant Woldemar Petri (1883-1951).
 
Much is unknown about reason for the sinking of the Wilhelmina VII, as the captain's log clearly states that he recognized her as a Dutch fishing vessel and Wilhelmina VII had the words HOLLAND on SB and BB. Perhaps the steel hull caused the captain to be confused or there are other things that play along, but it will always remain unclear.
 
The names of the killed crew are. Skipper Arie den Hollander (39), mate Willem van der Plas (33), sailor Jacob den Hollander (37), sailor Jan Zwanenburg (34), sailor Jeroen den Hollander (43) and oldest Arie den Hollander (16)
One of the crewmembers is the grandfather of the man I will build this model for.
 
 
The model
 
The model is built in scale 1/25, giving a hull-length of 113cm and a total length of 152cm and a height of 100cm. This will give me a lot of space to get a high level in details and make things work.
I will make the hull of fiberglass and polyester and the rest of the ship will be full of oak and brass.
For building, I base myself on the original buildingplans I found and photos of other sailloggers from that time. Particularly I will use information and photos of the only remaining saillogger VL-92 de Balder that has been very precisely restored and brought back into old state.
 
 

Pretend the lower Mast is 100’ to the cap. With the Topmast fidded and in place the TOPROPE is fixed to the starboard side of the cap, runs through the sheave at the Topmast heel, back up to the lead block on the port side of the cap, then 100’ down to the deck. Paint the TOPROPE red at the point it’s belayed on deck to mark that portion of the rope. 
Now lower away. The Topmast has descended to deck. In order to get there, 200’ feet of TOPROPE had to run through the leadblock at the cap, with 100’ more feet to still get back to belay on deck. The TOPROPE had to be AT LEAST 300’ long to appear as it does in the second drawing. The red painted portion of the Toprope would have passed through the leadblock when exactly 50’ of the Topmast had descended need to the deck. If there was a block at that point on the line, the Mast could not descend any farther. 
Theres a chance a rig that includes tackle on the Toprope isn’t INTENDED to lower the Topmast all the way to the deck. A Toprope with tackle on it could be intended for use only in HOUSINGthe Topmast, that’s only INTENDED to get the Topmast halfway down. This was common enough and done in bad weather to reduce windage aloft in storms.

I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books. 

I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books. 

I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books. 

Pretend the lower Mast is 100’ to the cap. With the Topmast fidded and in place the TOPROPE is fixed to the starboard side of the cap, runs through the sheave at the Topmast heel, back up to the lead block on the port side of the cap, then 100’ down to the deck. Paint the TOPROPE red at the point it’s belayed on deck to mark that portion of the rope. 
Now lower away. The Topmast has descended to deck. In order to get there, 200’ feet of TOPROPE had to run through the leadblock at the cap, with 100’ more feet to still get back to belay on deck. The TOPROPE had to be AT LEAST 300’ long to appear as it does in the second drawing. The red painted portion of the Toprope would have passed through the leadblock when exactly 50’ of the Topmast had descended need to the deck. If there was a block at that point on the line, the Mast could not descend any farther. 
Theres a chance a rig that includes tackle on the Toprope isn’t INTENDED to lower the Topmast all the way to the deck. A Toprope with tackle on it could be intended for use only in HOUSINGthe Topmast, that’s only INTENDED to get the Topmast halfway down. This was common enough and done in bad weather to reduce windage aloft in storms.

I’ve got three formats of AOS books. Some are hardcover with Silver background on dust jacket and these solver dust jacket editions conceal a large format ship schematic on its inner jacket surface! So cool! Imagine my surprise then, when I purchased some other AOSbooks, these with white backgrounds on their dust jackets and these jackets had NO hidden drawings on their reverse side. Then I purchased a softcover HMS Victory AOS edition and these had gatefold covers, covers on front and back are folded in half and reveal larger hull drawings. So my advice is to try to get a silver background AOS book. My silver ones are from the year 2001 and, REMARKABLY, I could find no publication date on my two white background AOS books.