hamilton

Hi Harlequin: I'm excited to see the degree to which you've triumphed over this kit! It gives me hope for the future. The rigging looks great and the build is really coming alive! It is a beautiful ship once she's all dressed up....following with an envious eye to the future.... hamilton

Well, Harlequin - at least I have something to look forward to.... I spent the first of probably 3 evenings shimming the outboard bulkheads on Greyhound. Using a test plank running up and down the bulkheads I've determined that, apart from the 2 forward bulkheads (2 & 3) that fall significantly short of the bearding line and the 2 aft bulkheads that do the same (8 & 9), I have to add shims at some point on 4 bulkheads on the port side and 5 starboard....lots of dull work ahead - though the future results will hopefully be much improved as a result of the plodding.... I'm doing the shimming in .6mm sapelia that I have left over in quantity from my San Francisco build of this time last year. The good thing about this, is that I'll be able to show in high contrast the amount of shimming I had to do. But if you'r making me wait for pictures of the Bellona, then you'll have to wait, too, for what will probably be much less impressive shots of my shimmed-up bulkheads....until next time - to all a good night hamilton

Amazing work on this restoration hamilton

Harlequin! When I saw the notification in my email, I rushed here expecting to be treated to some glorious photos of the assembled framework! And now I see it's left still to my imagination....which at this time in the afternoon does not work very well.....especially when I've skipped lunch! Anyway, it's great to hear that you've started and I patiently await some eye candy on this forum. Bye for now and thanks for all your help with Greyhound! hamilton

Hello Augie: Phew!! This has probably been one of the more entertaining reads I've had in a while in all respects - and the build is beautiful. A real inspiration. Now that I'm caught up, it'll be much easier to follow along - even though I'm a bit of a late comer to the party. Keep up the great work! hamilton

The busy life of the sports dad! I imagine it in my future, too - though most likely hockey.....not looking forward to the smell, but we must make sacrifices for our children, right? I will patiently wait for the Bellona log to start steam rolling along. Bye for now hamilton

Just checked out NMM on their 20-gun ship models. There's one that features a ship's boat, from a later period, but the deck elements on the models of ships of the early 18th century seem to have gallows bits atop the main sheet bits and another gallows bits atop the fore jeers bits...so the timbers on both main sheet and fore jeers bits extend upward and are capped atop with a cross bar. There seems something clumsy to me about this solution....especially since it tucks away the sheet and jeers bits in a kind of inconvenient way....if anyone has any solution to this issue, I'd be happy to hear it - thanks! hamilton

Thanks for the tip B.E. I feel a real lack of confidence in my carving ability, but might be less intimidated if there were something to start with - I never would have thought of a chess piece! Excellent idea....time to start cruising the pawn shops and second hand stores.... hamilton

Hi Dave: Thanks for the tip - very much appreciated! I'll head over to the NMM site now hamilton

Hi there: I'm working on the Corel Greyhound, but using Goodwin's Anatomy of the Ship HMS Blandford as my guide. Goodwin's book is great, but using it has raised a point of confusion for me. Corel's kit design has the ship's boat (a pinnace) mounted on spars that are placed foreward on little brackets on either side of the belfry, and aft on a gallows bit just before the main mast. Goodwin's book has a different belfry design (the belfry is positioned slightly to port) and there are no gallows bits, but sheet bits before the mast... Goodwin's book seems to trump Corel's instructions/design at many points, but he also gives no indication of how to mount the ship's boat....does anyone have any idea how this might have been done on a 20-Gun frigate of 1720? Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks a lot in advance. hamilton

Hi Augie: Thanks for the visit! And sorry I haven't dropped by your Syren log for a while! I promise to dedicate some time to it tomorrow! I'm used to homework - giving and receiving - I teach at a university so the concept is familiar! Bye for now hamilton

Hi Blue Ensign: Thanks for the tips! Yes, I agree that the double-black wale with the filling strake looks really nice. At this point, I would like to try to emulate the finishing of the ship that appears on Goodwin's cover (though I may have to subcontract for the decorative scrolls and such). My 4-year-old son was trying to convince me to carve the lion's-head figurehead....but the last thing I carved ended up looking something like a bean, so I don't think that's in my future. The crowsfeet scare me a bit at this scale, but I will give the a shot and see how it goes...Can you tell me if they're considered standing or running rigging...? Black or hemp? Anyway thanks for reading! hamilton

Hello Harlequin: Thanks for the encouragement. The Goodwin book on the Blandford has been a real breath of fresh air I have to say. I think it will be fun to try to incorporate some of the details he shows on the Blandford - in fact, it's possible that this build might turn into the Blandford in the long run.... One photo in Blandford's book shows a model of a 20-gun frigate with the sweeps run out. I find the look of this so captivating that if I can get up the courage I may actually take the time to carve 36 sweeps at 1:100 scale to add this other bit of interest to the model.... Anyway, my limited life experience has shown me that what happens in the world of ideas so often stays there, so who knows....Anyway - what's up with that Bellona! My patience is wearing thin for an update! hamilton

As if the last post wasn't enough - I'll also update a bit of progress - I spent last night prepping the centre keel 1. carving out the gammoning hole 2. Drilling a bobstay hole 3. Marking and carving the rabbet joint 4. Cutting out the seat for the figurehead from the knee of the head After leafing through Goodwin and Lees, I'm going to add two more features this evening and then do some reading: 1. Drilling a second bobstay hole 2. Drilling a hole at the top of the stem for the main stay collar That will be that - nothing really glamourous, but the books have made me a little more inspired for this build after the great disappointment I've been feeling given hurdles this kit presents...and I'm getting excited to make some modifications and bash this kit up a bit....bye for now hamilton

Well a bit more progress on the Greyhound to report....but first, I thought I'd show off a couple of new acquisitions These both came in the mail today - and the timing couldn't be better - it's meant to rain all weekend, so how better to while away the hours.... I've leafed through both already and can see that the Lees in particular will continue to be an invaluable resource. The Goodwin book has been illuminating as well on a few specific points: 1. The open bulwarks at the waist, with the frame timbers used as stanchions for the rail - a feature I may use on this build 2. A series of oar sweeps following the waterline at the level of the lower deck - I'm thinking of finding a way to frame these out and add them using the system Chuck Passaro suggests for the sweeps on the Syren 3. An outboard hatch just beside the outboard ladders at the level of the lower deck - presumably for hauling supplies in and out - I think I'll try framing and adding this, too. 4. an anchor lining on the forward channel - also an easy add 5. The main wale features a thinner filling strake, though the diagram says "c. 1719" - the solid built wale is also dated "c. 1730" - so it's a little unclear whether the solid built wale corresponds to the 1719 Establishment, or whether the filling strake would still have been used....any ideas out there? I kind of like the look with the filling strake.... 6. Crowsfeet on all three masts - which I'm not sure I can easily do at this scale, but which I'll try... 7. The belfry on the forecastle is towards the port side with one timberhead to the port side and three to starboard, allowing for ladders up to the forecastle port and starboard - I will definitely add these, as in the Corel plans, there is no indication of how the forecastle would have been accessible at all.... It's possible that if I want to stay as true as possible to the 1719 Establishment I'll have to add a solid wale and close off the bulwarks, but I'll need to do a bit more research on this - unless someone has a quick answer.... I've also noticed some discrepancies between Lees accounts of the 20-Gun ship of c. 1719 and the Goodwin text: 1. Lees lists 2 bobstays on a 20-Gun of 1719 - and while Goodwins drawings show two bobstay holes on the stem, he only puts one bobstay on... 2. Lees has guys p/s on the jibboom, with a running tackle eye-spliced to the spritsail yard, running through pendant blocks spliced to the end of the jibboom, back through blocks on the spritsail yard and held fast on bow timberheads 3. Lees belaying illustration for a 20-gun ship of 1719 has a very different deck arrangement than the Blandford/Greyhound. His illustration shows a vessel that clearly has a square beakhead bulkhead and a foremast on the forecastle, while the Blandford and the Greyhound have a rounded bow and the foremast on the main deck - though in other elements, the two books agree so some sense might be cobbled together from both 4. Goodwin has main sheet bitts as well as the main jeer bitts - something missed by Corel, but also represented differently by Lees. I think I'll follow Goodwin here. 5. Lees illustrates horses on the bowsprit that run through a stirrup spliced to the forestay and held fast to a bow timberhead with a deadeye-lanyard set-up. I had thought of adding footropes to the bowsprit, but since neither Lees nor Goodwin mentions these, perhaps there were none...I'm not entirely sure what function the horse played....any ideas? Anyway - sorry for the long post! I guess I'm just excited to have these new resources to peruse....bye for now! hamilton

Thanks for this detail Harlequin! This strategy makes a lot of sense. I'll be returning to this for sure when the time comes.... hamilton

Thanks Harlequin, but don't worry too much about it. I will cross that bridge when I get to it...I had the same problem envisaging the stern area of my Toulonnaise a while back, but once I started things got clear....this is a pig of a kit, though....I'm reminded of a quote from a movie I once saw about a crazy ring - "how can something so small cause so much fear and doubt?" True perhaps of many a model! hamilton

These are perfect - thanks Harlequin! Great job, too! Can't wait to see your Bellona as it develops! Quick question - are the angled planks attached directly to the stern face of bulkhead 13? I'm guessing they must be...I just can't imagine having that much space to work with down there myself, considering how much I've had to shorten the main deck at the stern....I also think I'll have to plank this area before second planking on the hull, again for structural reasons.... As I said, I think I might have to modify my planking at stern/counter, since I had to modify the main deck at the stern to accommodate bulkhead 13...here's a shot or two to illustrate. You can see how the stern edges of the main deck and quarterdeck are now at quite a remove - the plans show the transom running parallel to bulkhead 13, but this will not be the case on my build....unless I modify the quarterdeck as well, which will shorten the model by about 3-5mm.... You can also see how little room there is for the transom supports underneath the main deck extension...I'll have to modify these, and this will also reduce the space available for the curve of the counter....all in all, I'm not sure I made the right choices in modifying the main deck - though the only other choice I had would have been to build an entirely new centre keel, which is well beyond my skill (apart from having no tools for such work)..... Anyway, thanks so much again for the pics - they clarify a lot! hamilton

Thanks for the tip Harlequin: Yes there's a lot of prep to do here! I will certainly darken those frames! Now that I've dry fit everything and marked the bearding and rabbet lines (mostly at a guess), I've noticed that a couple of the forward frames are also well short of the mark..... Also - Harlequin, I've been trying to puzzle out the stern and transom area, specifically trying to imagine the planking of the lower transom (below the decoration) and the counter. Do you think you could post a shot here of the transom on your Greyhound so I can have a peek at how you did it? I'm just a little worried, since after my modification of the main deck at the stern (so that it would fit onto bulkhead 13) the counter area is now too short or that I'm going to encounter some further problems down the road.....always a possibility! Anyway thanks again for the tip and in advance for the photo! hamilton

Great description, Janos - thanks a lot! hamilton

This sounds like a simple yet very effective method - the benefit of the adhesive seems obvious - now that someone has pointed it out to me! I'll give this a try hamilton

Well, I have taken a bit of time this morning juggling work and modelling and have managed to quickly shape the bulkheads to fit the skinny lower deck piece, and widen out the bulkhead slots on the deck for dry-fitting... Of course this revealed a number of other issues with the kit design - some minor, like these: And some seemingly major, like this: It's clear that the bulkhead slots on the deck will need to be modified to fit bulkhead 13. However, given the amount of widening that needs to be done, I'm worried that this will create a lot of instability in the stern framing (those little slots at the aft end of the deck are for the vertical stern frames)....sheesh, Corel! What were you thinking?! Anyway, I would rather this log not turn into a running set of complaints about the quality of the kit....at least these kinds of things present a decent challenge - perhaps a little more "stimulating" than the (probably non-existent) "perfect kit".... Here are a couple of photos of the dry fit to this point....just to add some sense of progress here.... hamilton

I nominate Harlequin to start the whiskey tutorial! As for cutting new bulkheads....that would be tough....if there were an accurate (or any) drawing of the hull lines included on the plans I could probably sort it out, but the main issue is tools - I'm a dining room table modeller, so for the present anything involving plugs and copious amounts of saw dust is not something I can really do.....soon though....soon....For now it's shimming and filling....but thanks for the encouragement Augie - it's much appreciated! hamilton

Thanks Augie and Harlequin: Augie - yes, something is definitely not right! If you look at the picture that shows the tops of the bulkhead frames, you'll see that they are all more or less level (though as I mentioned a lot needs to be done here), but at the bottoms of the bulkhead, these two (9 and 10) are roughly 3/16" higher than they ought to be..... Harlequin - your solution makes sense. I've done this same thing on a number of builds, though never with such a gross error. It's going to take a lot of .5mm planks to build this area up, but that is probably the best way to keep the general contour of the bulkhead and thus the lines of the hull....like you, I will proceed with making the framework and not deal with these until I have to at the first planking - when I'll probably also discover some other minor errors. Maybe it's time I learned how to drink whiskey..... hamilton

Hi there: I've officially begun the Greyhound and can already say that I feel driven to drink, just as Harlequin predicted!! Here's a digest: 1. I used the kit-supplied templates of the CNC parts (sheet 4 of the plans) to ascertain how much trimming and shimming the bulkheads needed (given how profoundly off the plans were with respect to the keel, I didn't even bother with that - I'm just going to take the CNC keel as-cut as my baseline reference point and go from there). They all needed something more or less - not unexpected in any kit, I suppose. Here's a representative sample 2. I then began to dry-fit the bulkheads to the keel - focusing my efforts solely on getting a good fit between these parts & not really paying attention to the outboard parts of the keel, the inner parts of the bulkheads (which define the rather skinny lower deck), or the inboard bulkhead extensions. Not to say there isn't any work to be done there - as you can see from this shot 3. It took a couple of evenings work to dry fit all 13 bulkheads. Everything between bulkhead 1 and 8 seemed alright, but when I fit bulkhead 9, I noticed something - the bottom of the bulkhead was significantly higher than the bottom of bulkhead 8, even though both should have hit a (currently imaginary) bearding line at an equal distance from the bottom of the keel...when I first fit it, I thought that there was no way that the bearding line should be sweeping up at that point on the hull... 4. When I fit bulkheads 10 and 11, I could easily see that something was wrong - the bottom of bulkhead 10 was at the same level as bulkhead 9, but bulkhead 11 struck at that same imaginary bearding line as bulkhead 8 had done....Check it out. Having built a number of kits before I've had to do my fair share of shimming the outboard edge of bulkheads to get an even flow of planking, but nothing like this!! My main concern now is that, with no line drawings provided with the kit, I actually have no idea how to shim up these bulkheads and maintain a clean flow of the planking....And if I just follow the bulkhead templates they tell me that these bulkheads are correct, when clearly they are not!!! Another worry is that once these 2 bulkheads are "corrected", I will also need to "correct" the bulkheads aft...not a "worry", I suppose, but just a lot of niggling work with no reference to work from! If this were my first Corel kit I would probably never buy another....Anyway, advice, encouragement, and mail order alcohol (same day delivery if possible) are all welcome at this point..... hamilton