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texxn5

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  1. texxn5
    Hi David, glad to find your log. I'll be following along, this is a ship model dear to my heart....thanks for reposting and keeping us up to date. John
  2. texxn5
    Hi Nigel, just getting caught up - looks great and looks like a fun ship...much anticipation going on....Keep up the good work. John
  3. texxn5
    Hello Al, glad to hear you've managed to obtain your sander. I think you should be able to use those to bolt the sander to a bench or a board. If you can post me a picture I can probably verify it for you. Enjoy your new toy... John
  4. texxn5
    Yeah, that would be ideal. We've retired, and downsized so there is no more room, and if we downsize again it will be to a 5th wheel. I don't have any kids, and Diane's have no interest. So I've got my 2 cars and some ship models to deal with and no one wants any of them...lol.
  5. texxn5
    Hi Tom, thanks. Yeah, I had other plans before reading your log - but tomorrow is another day, especially when my day was consumed by your fantastic build log and work. Part of my problem is having the room for another big ship.... John
  6. texxn5
    Hi, as a Proxxon Distributor, I would like to address the advantages or disadvantages of the mill vs a drill press. Ultimately, they both can achieve a desired result. The main question is whether you need vertical or "z" dimensional control. As George mentions, the Mill can achieve better results. If all you're trying to do is have somewhat control of your piece, you can probably achieve that with a drill. The results will be satisfactory, but here again accuracy is relevant. The prices are not too different, and if you are spending that kind of money why not spend a small amount more and have the Mill which does it all. I run a number of combination deals, so anyone with an interest PM me for a special MSW deal. John
  7. texxn5
    Hi Ken, I also found that Hobby Lobby carries the same copper foil that comes in the kit. It's in their section that deals with stained glass products. It's the same foil that the glass people use. I needed some and it matched perfectly in color and size. John
  8. texxn5
    Hi Tom, I can't believe I'm just finding your build log. I started at the beginning also and wound up spending most all of the day going through it. It is a gorgeous build of a very difficult project. I finished the Revell plastic 1/96 before I built my Morgan, but always have wanted to build the MS one. Someday, before I get too old to do this one I might make an attempt. I might do the Niagara next, and you're Carrondades solved some future problems I was contemplating. Keep it up and I'm dragging up a late chair and following along. I've had Henry's tour also and that is a real inspiring and motivating force to build this ship. Great work! John
  9. texxn5
    Hi Wayne, she's taking shape, nicely done. Good to see you back in the yards. I was in your area in July but forgot you lived up there. We stayed in Lubec for 2 weeks and came to Eastport a few times during our stay. Bought Lobster's off the boats and I ate them until I turned red...lol. Sorry to have missed you, we spent over a month in north eastern Maine and loved it. John
  10. texxn5
    Hi Mikie, I think those are just holes for running the Stays through. You might check out my pictures of the real Bowsprit on my website - I think I show those as I took a lot of pictures of the Bowsprit back in June. Just a thought for clarity. She's looking good, keep up the good work. I drove up to the Bentwater gate and turned around today taking my little red car out for a drive. John
  11. texxn5
    Hello, just discovered your log. I'll be following along, she's looking good. I was aboard the Niagara in June of last year should you need anything specific as I took about 400 pictures with the modeler in mind. I think this might be my next build since I just finished the Charles W Morgan. I have a website devoted to the Morgan and a Gallery of other ships of which the Niagara is part of. Here's the link and let me know if you need anything specific. John Link to Niagara Gallery: http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/us-brig-niagra.html
  12. texxn5
    Hi Joe, looking good. Let me know if you need anything specific. I agree on the hardwoods and would highly recommend them in the areas you mentioned. Contact Jason at Crown Lumber and he'll get you what you need....you'll be a much happier camper! John
  13. texxn5
    Thanks Gerald, glad all is good on your end and good to see you back in the shipyard... John
  14. texxn5
    Hello Gerald, how've you been...good to see you back. What happened on your Morgan? I finished mine a few weeks ago. Check it out if you get a chance: website: http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com Hope all is well on your end, John
  15. texxn5
    Have you tried using a Mill Bit say from 3-5mm with side cutting abilities in a drill press with good tolerence control? Might be worth a try.
  16. texxn5
    Hi Scott, I just found your log and will be monitoring it. I have been thinking about the Niagara as my next project as well as having been on the Niagara twice in the last 2 years. I have extensive photographs of the real ship and museum on my website if you should need any photos. From some of your discussions here it appears that the framing wood is not good quality. If I could convince Chuck to make some scaled Carronades (lol),it seems that a scratch build here could be in order using Boxwood instead of the basswood. Good luck with the breakages they get frustrating to say the least. The photos I have are in the Gallery pages under Other Model Ship's. I'm also a Proxxon Tool distributor should you need any tools. John link to website: http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/us-brig-niagra.html
  17. texxn5
    Joe, it's all correctable....look forward to seeing your progress.. John
  18. texxn5
    OK, that sounds cool. I edited my previous post with a little bit more info for you. This should get interesting using the dyed wood. I'm looking forward to it. You'll be happy with the hardwoods. They are harder to shape, but they really do hold it once you've formed what you want. Sounds like fun. I wish I had the forethought and/or resources at the time I built mine, as I would have changed much of the basswood for probably boxwood. The Pear, according to Jason, is getting real hard to get and he prefers selling Holly and Boxwood.
  19. texxn5
    You're welcome Mike, hope I helped some. I'm not quite following your concept yet, or your vision, so it might take me a bit to catch on. I found the Morgan hull very easy to work, I'm hoping you find the same. Basswood is a different animal, sometimes easy to use and sometime it really sucks. I wish I had changed some of it to the hardwoods - especially the deck and deck furniture and structures. I highly recommend changing the channels and pin rails and the skylight. Essentially, anything you have to drill a hole in. Jason at Crown Timberyard seems to have taken up where Jeff at Hobbymill left off. I've had several conversations with him, and he seems really up to par. I just reviewed my Morgan at this stage, and remembered that once you're happy with the bulkheads and fit the Plankshear to them, the entire structure strengthens up tremendously and you really shouldn't have any problems like this again....the fog is clearing now that I'm thinking of these procedures again. I have several friends building this model and all of you are at the same point in the build. I'm playing "coach" and this is very new to me, I'm usually the student....lol. I love it and glad I can help out when I can... John
  20. texxn5
    Mike, I remember opening the slots in the bulkheads until they had a snug but movable space. I pre shaped almost all of the bevels on the bulkhead side, then squared them to the batten board to form the shape. Once glued I did final touches. I also did not have any issues with breakage. The Plankshear fit flush with the tops of the notches on the bulkheads and the waterway came up to the plankshear making it flush and hiding them. The deck planks butted up to the waterways to complete the shape of all of that. I hope this makes sense. I think you can see it in my pictures, if not let me know as I probably have some unpublished extra pictures. As for the reinforcements between the bulkhead, I have seen people do all kinds of things. Again, I had no issues so I didn't do any reinforcements. It actually was amazingly strong. Some have even gone as far as filling the spaces between the bullkeads with bals blocks to form a solid hull....I"m not overly keen about that one though...overkill. The pictures at the beginning of my Build Log I shows the shaped bulkheads with their fairing all laid out before gluing them together. I also formed the filler blocks at the Bow and Stern before gluing all of that together. After I was happy with that I then glued the Plankshear to the tabs making all of it flush at the top. The stanchions go in the square holes on the plankshear. Hope this helps. John
  21. texxn5
    Hi Mike, my sincerest appologies for not responding to your questions. I just now saw the questions. Somehow, I didn't get the email notice that you had posted. I'll review the questions, check to see where you are at and answer accordingly. I think you have my personal email, so if for some reason you don't get a response in a timely manner please email me. Good progress - I do recall one of your concerns about the tabs that stick up from the bulkheads, and off the top of my head, I think the waterways covered them up. I'll double check for you. I'll be back in touch shortly. John
  22. texxn5
    Hi guys, this is a good topic. Glad to see people using their tools. Being a Proxxon Dealer, I have access to these tools, however, I found that for the model ship work I've done the milling process that I needed mostly was the x-y function of the Compound Table. I used my Proxxon TBM Drill Press with the X-Y table and MS 4 Machine Vise and controlled the "Z" function manually. This works perfect with the 1,2 or 3 mm Mills. Anyone looking for such a set up PM me and I'll make a special deal for any combinations. I also carry the full line Proxxon Mills and Lathes. The PD 230 Lathe has been discontinued, but is to be replaced with the PD 250 shortly...it's just a little bigger. John
  23. texxn5
    Hey Mike, not sure if you noticed but we live off 1097 and Long Street, N of Bing's restaurant in Shadow Bay. What part do yo live in? John
  24. texxn5
    Mike, we live in Shadow Bay off of Long Street and 1097. we're real close. John
  25. texxn5
    Hello Mike, I just found your log. Very nice job. I'm thinking this might be my next build since I've finished my Charles W Morgan. Interesting build order. What part of Texas? I'm on lake Conroe. I visited the Niagara back in July and tried to thoroughly photograph her since I plan to build her. I have a section devoted to those photographs on my website. Let me know if you need anything specific. I have been aboard her twice. Inf the museum there are some nice models, one is 1/2" scale. I'm enjoying reading your log and will follow along on your log. John link to Niagara on my website: http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/us-brig-niagra.html

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