Dowmer

Nice work on drilling those tiny holes Ron.  Not an easy feat.  For the oiled cloth to get something close to scale, you may consider the method of using Silkspan for sails that Lauria explains.  I think you paint over the silkspan to give it the correct opaqueness but still is very thin and scale like. Just a thought.  But I suppose you have it figured out by now. I’ll intently keep watching. Love the detailed build 👍

Looking great Ron.  Just curious, what type of wood you are using for the spars. It seems to hold edges very nicely and color is good too.

Johann, marvelous and fantastic work as usual. I’ve been following this build for years. One question I have is with your rigging or in this case the lashings pulling the Jack stays together, how do you tie off the bitter end (loose end).  I see you eye spliced one end to the thimble with a simple eye spliced, but the other end after passing through the thimbles how do you secure the other end.  Same with many of your other rope work. It is so clean and I never see the other end of the rope how it is finished. Thank you and your build would make an incredible practicum as a book. 

Nicely done Phil. Your assumptions seem to be well founded and they make very handsome work of the tops and spars. 
I’ve been enjoying your build as you work through the details. 
cheers

Looks nice Chuck and the acrylic seems promising. I prefer a darker deadeye since they were typically darker anyway on full size since they were slopped with tar as they covered the rigging. The natural, bright colored one looks…well un-natural….😂. Either way, it’s the builder’s choice. Wonderful work either way, and I love they way you are always trying to make a better product. My hat is off to you Sir!

You don’t realize how massive these were until put in perspective with the figures. 
well done Siggi

Very nice rendition Roger. I especially like your attention to historical detail with the sails. 

Marvelous and clear work Alan. I especially appreciate the drawings and information you produce and freely post for others. It’s people like you that really make this site and hobby enjoyable. Thank you. 
 

btw, what software do you use to draft and draw your masts and other items?

Wonderful detail. How did you make the hinges?

Johann, if the silk fabric doesn't look right, you might want to try some silkspan tissue or paper. 

Wonderful work Siggi.

where do you get your chain plates?

Yes, masterful work. 

Here’s what mine looks like after 20 years. It’s been out of the sunlight in a dark closet and I used a light wipe of tung oil. The Alaskan Cedar really has a warm golden glow to it. Very pleased. Some day I’ll finish this project. Watching Chuck’s fine Winchelsea and Cheerful kits and tutorials are motivating me to start again. 
 

Greg, excited to see more progress. I'm glad Speedwell is back in home waters for fitting out. 

Greg, I’ve been considering this for a long time since I have issues with vertebrae in my neck. 
Amazon has many Amazon Lift  as does Harbor Freight Harbor Freight lift   Most are designed for lifting motor cycles, so more that adequate for our purposes and just might prevent some neck and back strain. 

Marvelous, ......so many layers of detail and different levels with the different houses. 

Nice job Rob. 

Rob, any chance we can get you to explain a “How to” on the windows?  For the small scale they are wonderfully executed, sharp and clean. Especially how do you make/install the muntin dividers and frames?

Ah yes, a classic book. So many out there sometimes it’s hard to remember where info is.  Thank you. 
PM answered.

Good info about the binnacle. Which book do you reference?

Rob, amazing work. I've been following since the beginning. A real tribute to all that have collaborated. 

One thing I noticed is that the stairs top step doesn't go to the top the the deck on the model. But in the picture up above they seem to go all the way to the top. Which is correct?  Is there other photo proof for the lower top step?

Rich, take it to a Staples, Office Depot, Kinkos etc

They have large format scanners and printers. They can scan it and print on whatever medium you want, vellum..etc. 

The paper is on rolls so they can print any length. 

Siggi, I hope you are doing well and unaffected in your area of Germany by all the flooding and destruction.

Johann, I don’t think it is a typo. Look at the Main topmast and topgallant stay diameters. They are all similar proportions. Which tells me they are intentional. Topgallant and topmast stays seem to be practically the same diameter….almost. 
 

Of course this is a French rigged ship, but I would be interested how it compares to a British rigged frigate of the same period. Or perhaps other French rigged ships as well. 

This is a very useful technique that is commonly used in the scale RC plane building (my other passion).  
You can use plain white glue or RC canopy glue which is about the same thing. You can thin it until you get the consistency you like so it lays down and looks like dome head rivets etc. I also add some acrylic silver paint to the glue so when the dry they look like metal. Then paint and slightly rub them to give a metal look. 
 

I use a small glue bottle with a syringe tip for application. With a little patience you can get them very consistent. You can also use a toothpick etc, but I find the syringe needle with a flat opening works best. 

Ron, while you are at it, can you explain again how you ebonize the wood. Your solution and technique etc.

thanks