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Valeriy V

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Posts posted by Valeriy V

  1. 2 hours ago, shipman said:

    Just love your work and tutorials, Valeriy.

    Thank you for sharing.

     

    Question: when covering the compound curved areas with fiberglass, how do you avoid folds and wrinkles?

    Avoiding wrinkles is not difficult:
    1) I make cuts in the fiberglass fabric as shown in the photo along the green lines before applying the resin
    2) after applying the resin in small portions, I smooth it along with the fiberglass with a soft rubber spatula
    3) in case the resin polymerizes too quickly, I have a construction hair dryer nearby with which I can heat the desired area of the resin and fiberglass to liquefy it

    0f3.jpg

  2. 3 hours ago, Mirabell61 said:

    splended work Valeriy,

    its a beautiful hull, will you imitate the riveting and do plating ?

     

    Nils

    For rivet head size calculations I show the German Lloyd chart. Circled in blue is the thickness of the cooable panel sheet that I choose. Green color is the required rivet diameter.
    As a result of a simple calculation, I get the dimensions of the rivet head for my model on a scale of 1:100 - diameter 0.3 mm and height 0.15 mm.
    Even if I can make such small details on the model, after covering with primer and paint they will simply visually disappear.
    Therefore, it makes no sense to show rivets on this model. ;) 

     

    But the belts of the outer hull plating sheets will be shown. :) 

    0f1.jpg

    0f2.jpg

  3. 21 minutes ago, Mirabell61 said:

    Hi Valeriy,

    I like the way and methode you tackle the hull-building.

    BTW why was this ship chosen for order, does your customer have a special relation to it ? 

    When I built my steamship "Heinrich Kayser" my grandfather in 1922 was the captain in command when it foundered in the north Atlantic without a trace, and I had to do a lot of research for building the model.

     

    Nils

    Hello Nils!

      You have glorious maritime roots and it's an interesting story! :) 

     

    The customer of Blagoev’s model is collecting his collection dedicated to the participation of the USSR in the Spanish Civil War.

  4. 27 minutes ago, wefalck said:

    A quick technical question: why did you put the brass 'bulwark' on top of the wood? I thought this kind of inserts were used in areas of open bulwarks in order to get a (nearly) right thickness of materials. Will you eventually remove the wood from behind the brass?

    Yes that's right! :) 
     Brass is much closer to the scale thickness of the bulwark. After covering the model's hull with a layer of fiberglass, the wooden strips will be removed from the inside of the bulwark.

  5. 22 minutes ago, Dr PR said:

    Another interesting build Valeriy!

    When you "soaked" the hull with liquid epoxy, did you cover the inside and outside of the planking, or just the outside? I have used liquid epoxy "paint" on the inside of the planking. It soaks into the cracks between planks, and between the planks and bulkheads. The result is a very solid hull that will not develop cracks between the planks.

    Thanks Phil!

       I impregnated the hull of the model with liquid resin only inside. It makes no sense to do this outside, since there will be fiberglass with the same epoxy resin.

  6. 1 hour ago, Mirabell61 said:

    Hi Valeriy,

    I suppose it will be a stand model afterwards. If so, how do you fasten the pedestals of the stand ?

    will you build a flat bottom or will a minimum of the keeline stand out ?

    Nils

    Hello Nils! 
    This ship has a horizontal keel. Only the thickness of the sheathing sheet will appear on the model.

    f1.jpg

  7. 12 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

    Hi Valeriy,

    I always look forward to your posts as they show that you are able to still lead a somewhat normal life during these difficult times.  It’s also great to see another steam merchant vessel under construction.  I build my models as two half models too.  This method ensures an accurate hull.

    Roger

    Thank you Roger! :) 

    Everything is fine with me and I continue my story about Blagoev’s hull.

     

    The model hull is fully assembled...

    0-4.jpg

  8. 1 hour ago, Mirabell61 said:

    Hello Valeriy

    that looks like a very promissing project.  Did you lasercut the parts yourself ?

    It looks so good as if it were a kit.

    It`s a nice scale and the building methode looks very smart, I`ll certainly be watching your progress

    Nils

    Thank you, Nils!

          I don’t have a laser cutting machine, so I ordered laser cutting. This is not an expensive operation.

    But I developed a drawing in vectors for laser cutting of plywood.

  9. 1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

     

    Nobody will complain about that!! Bring it on !!!

     

    Thank you, Yves!

    1 hour ago, yvesvidal said:

    Process made famous by Billing Boats, who was the first commercial company to propose that way of building hulls.

     

    Unfortunately, I don't know anything about Billing Boats. But I think that this is the simplest and most reliable method for constructing a model hull.

    I build all the hulls of my models using this method, including the Varyag. :) 

  10. SS  Blagoev.

     

    Key dates from the life of the ship:

    - built 1921  under the name Songa ,   Armstrong, Whitworth & Co. Ltd, High Walker Yard,  Newcastle, England

    - sold in 1935 to the USSR and received the name Blagoev

    - during the Spanish Civil War, the ship carried military supplies for the Republicans

    - during the last voyage from Odessa ( march 9, 1937 )  the ship was sunk by an Italian submarine LUGI SETTEMBRINI

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