Valeriy V

3 hours ago, Mirabell61 said:

beautiful work Valeriy,

I like the reinforcement brackets at the mid-island front area...

Nils

Thank you, Nils! They are needed for the pillars of the navigation bridge. There are none in the aft part of the spardeck.

52 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

Valeriy, Is the originals hull plated and riveted?

Yes, Keith, the ship's structure is riveted. Welding at that time was just beginning its journey in shipbuilding.

General view of the deck.

Poop.

Spardek

Hi all!

I finished covering the deck with metal.

Forecastle.

10 hours ago, KeithAug said:

 

So that is one eye done. It turns out that the world is incredibly blue and bright.

The great news doesn't have to end, Keith!  

I wish you a speedy successful recovery!

12 minutes ago, FlyingFish said:

You don't need that match any more - we believe you! Lovely soldering - and those parts are tiny!

Andy!

I'm already used to it and it will be difficult for me without it.   

17 minutes ago, amateur said:

Hi Valeriy,

what a beautiful work.

I have a question: your hatches show hinges on all dides, and  post #130 shows ‘unhinged’ hinges. Was it possible to choose the direction in which these hatches opened? And also: the parts between the hinges, are those to bolt down the hatches while at sea?

Jan

Hi Jan!
Yes, that’s exactly it, the hatches could open to 2 opposite sides. A bracket between the hinges to tighten the lid in stormy conditions. I'll install bolts there later to tighten it down.

30 minutes ago, ERS Rich said:

Well, at least “observed” mundane shipboard tasks……😎

It is interesting that according to the staffing schedule, these ships only had 2 officers. It is possible that they are both shown in the photo. Although the midshipman could have been a guest.  

47 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

Valeriy,

Aluminum torpedo boxes:  An interesting use for what was then a relatively new refined metal.  I don’t know about Europe but the first large scale Aluminum  reduction plant was only built in the USA in 1891; seven years after Charles Hall developed the basic process.  Was topside weight actually that much of a concern?

Roger

Yes, Roger! The problem of overload on these ships was big. Therefore, in every possible way they tried to lighten the structures.

5 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

You are pushing the perfection to use the same materials as on the prototype ship.

Yves

Yves, this is not entirely true. This is a color imitation using cupronickel.  

And now they are all posing together on the model’s hull.

Boxes for spare torpedoes. On the ship they were made of aluminum alloys.

I continue my soldering of brass parts.  

The photo shows the engine room hatches.

12 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Thanks again Valeriy. I sort of assumed you might be using different melting point solders and heat sinks - but your method is much easier.

Keith, i'm happy to help!  

Yes, of course, the soldering method with solders of different melting temperatures is also good. I use it in rare cases when the main method does not help. And instead of a radiator, you can use an ordinary spring clamp that will secure the part from shifting.

44 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

It may be that I haven't prepared the surface correctly.

Yes, Keith, this is the only and main mistake when painting brass.

The metal must be perfectly free of grease.
If the parts are small, then I clean them by dipping them briefly into a solution of nitric acid or for a longer period into the solution NaOH.

If the surface is large, then I use the method of painters in car repair shops - gasoline caloshes and a rubberized napkin.
All other solvents only spread the fat layer over the part but do not remove it.
I want to clarify that all this applies to the conditions in which I live.  

29 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

Sorry Valeriy I should have been clearer. I was referring to the bulwark not the deck plates.

Keith, еverything is simple there too.  
It is necessary to follow the principle of the order of soldering parts - from large parts to smaller ones. And then the larger parts do not have time to warm up by the time the small parts are already soldered.

1 hour ago, KeithAug said:

 It would be good if you were able to supply more detail on your build / soldering sequence. I'm interested in how you make the later joints without unsoldering the earlier work?

 

Keith!

Soldering such large sheets of brass is quite boring and monotonous. 

You can solder them in sequence one after another. The brass sheets are massive and do not have time to warm up enough for the previous seam to fall apart from overheating.

1 hour ago, KeithAug said:

Also it would be interesting to know why you chose brass for the deck planks rather than something else e.g. very thin birch ply or even card?

Everything is very simple here. The deck metal sheets were laid overlapping. Therefore, I need to show on the model steps with a height of approximately 0.2-0.3 mm.
Cardboard does not have the properties I need for modeling. Therefore I don't consider it as useful material.
Wood veneer with a thickness of 0.2-0.3 mm behaves like a sheet of paper. It has no rigidity and is very sensitive to changes in humidity.  

The bulwark is welded from parts and its half is installed on the forecastle.

Brass blanks for the bulwark on the forecastle.

Thank you all for your attention to my topic!  

   The process of laying brass on the deck continues. Now on the forecastle.

Large body and many small details! It will be interesting, I will watch it with anticipation. Good luck in job!  

Installation and soldering of sheets to bulwarks and bulkheads.

Thanks to everyone who expressed their thoughts about the Kingston box! Now I have plenty to choose from for my grille installation option.

  I continue to work on the Blagoev hull. I'm starting to lay down the deck sheets.