src
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JP, That is some REALLY precise decking! Very clean and consistent! Sam
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Sjors, Thank you for the warning, no broken bones for me. Racing over to aggie to stake a corner out. Sam
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That would present a problem. Sam
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Outstanding work sjors!!! Happy klompen dance!!!!! Sam
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Looks good. Are you still planning on running some fiber optic tracer rounds? Sam
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Sjors, I am jealous, I can't even find time to strope a block ( I am stealing some quiet time at work to write this ) maybe some of the retired folk can donate some time to us working joes? Looks great as I stand on tip toes looking over everybody looking over your shoulders!! Sam
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KP, One thing to add to what Mark has already mentioned. The bullet strikes would not run in lines like in the movies. Aircraft machine guns were mounted to fire in a cone so the bullets would converge at a certain distance. Dont recall what the distance was, probably varied aircrat to aircraft and country to country. Watch some youtube strafing videos and you should see what I mean. I recall reading in several accounts from the Pacific about US fighters strafing Japanese shipping and pilots reporting seeing pieces knocked off and SMALL fires being started. The pieces were never described to my recollection but I would imagine they were relatively small. And that was mostly .50 cal stuff. Regardless, from a 3 foot viewing distance (1050 scale feet) I imagine you wouldnt see much of anything. Just my thoughts. Sam
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Nah, not for this kind of stuff. Most people would never notice if you didnt point it out. Completed gallery, thats where is matters I would think. Was just curious. Sam
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augie, In referance to your comment on the background color, it looks as if your white balance was off. Did you shoot under fluorescent and had it set to daylight or auto? Sam
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Clear Shellac Sanding Sealer
src replied to grsjax's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Jaager and Sea Dog said pretty much what I was going to about shellac. In addition to using at as a sealer I have also used it to control stains, similar to what many use stain conditioner for. A thinned down shellac applied and then scuff sanded can tame even the most difficult to stain woods although the stain will be somewhat lighter than on bare wood. Best to experiment first. As far as using shellac to fill grain, its possible but labor intensive. The first processes of french polishing use a very fine pumice worked into the surface with shellac as a binder. For me I prefer dyed grain filler. Jeff Jewit at Homesteadfinishing.com used to have a great tutorial on french polishing for anybody interested. He also has a great selection of modern and traditional finishing products, no connection other than a satisfied customer. EDIT - Somehow I missed bucks last lines on pumice........... Just my 2 cents Sam -
Slog, I think she looks great,even from this side of the world! Most people will be looking at the deck details, the flaws you have convinced yourself are there will just be overlooked. She is a BIG girl! How will you aver fit her in your bath tub? Sam
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A Sal Ammoniac stone will often cure your problem: http://www.inlandcraft.com/uguides/tipcare.htmthey are commonly used on irons for stained glass work. Sam
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Obi-Mark (or is it Mark Gordon?) Looks great to my eyes! I wouldn't look at V1.0 as a failure, more of a prototype working out the kinks. Even a Bentley needs a prototype before going into production. "Silled" is absolutly a word, I seen it their on paige 39 post 582. Ewe rote it!! Trust me, I am ege-a-mik-ated in the talking of the english!!! Keith mentioned maybe you are Flash Gordon himself or a reincarnation; now whenever I click on you name to see your stats I want to hear the opening to that Queen song Flash!! I can hear it now, "FLASH!!!! Ah!-aa-AH! Ok, back to building, cant wait to see your transom work. Sam
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Nice save on the LED, I wouldn't have thought that would work. Do you plan on painting a wake and bow wave in? Sam
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KP, On your blue LED, are they an actual blue diode or is it a blue gel diffuser? If its a blue diode your stuck, if the cover is blue you might be able to gently ad VERY carefully take most of it off. that may shift your color back to white. Alternativly you might be able to wrap a golored gel filter around it and shift the bue a bit. try looking at a professional camera store or looking up Roscoe Filters. Its a pretty dark blue so you wont get a tremendious color change, but maybe something closer to what you can live with. Good luck its starting to come together. sam
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Augie, those are some nice looking cannons! I wish Chuck was offering hem back when I bought mine. I would have paid half the price I think. I dont envy you putting all those rings etc together. I only have 14 to do and find after stropping 2 or 3 blocks I am done for a while. Looking forward to your next update. Sam
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Slog, great to see an update, looks good! I know what you mean about "not wanting to touch it" when you have time; I have been in that mode myself a bit. But, thats why its a hobby and not a job. Looks like the joint compound did the trick; maybe next time a bit of shellac to seal the paper, that might lessen the buckling? The compound should still stick. Regarding sanding auto body filler, you can start sanding before its dry. It takes a little bit of timing but just as it starts to kick, IE as soon as its too stiff to spread but still soft, hit it with a coarse-ish sandpaper or even a hobby rasp and you can shape it pretty easily. we start with 36 grit at work but thats a bit heavy for modeling. Your paper will clog up fast and you'll go through quite a lot. If you use a rasp soak it in acetone and the filler will come right off with a bristle brush. Another trick with auto filler is to take some masking tape, paper or cardboard and stretch it between with both hands and use that as your spreader. With a bit of practice you can drag it down the length of your hull - or other curved surface - and have a very smooth easy to finish shape. Works with joint compound also. A micro plane works well also. http://www.crateandbarrel.com/microplane-grater-zester/s360417 EDIT - There is a filler for scratches and pin holes. Here is the States we call it spot putty. I believe its just a very thick sandable primer in a tube. at work we will take our regular sandable primer and add a bulking agent sometimes and make it as we need it. I would think if you bought a small bottle of primer for models that is sandable you should be able to add some powdered calcium carbonate to it and make your own if you cant find something suitable at an auto paint store. Just some thoughts. Sam
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Vivian, I was wondering why your Chinese log had grown so quiet. grabbing a chair and some popcorn, this is going to be another fun trip! Sam
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Kp, What's your plan for illuminating the fiber optics Sam
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Very clean and crisp! A joy to look at Augie. Great to see you getting some bench time in again. A question, I struggled with my ladders. Even with a jig I felt they were not a consistent as I would like. How did you do yours? Sam
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Havent seen you around here in a while Kimberly, where did you go?? Sam
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Thanks Mark. I wasnt clear when I said wood movement. Seasonal changes; IE expansion and contraction is exactly what I meant when I mention movement. Thanks again Sam
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I see, so when the frames move they are not locked in place by the spacers. It would not have occurred to me that the frames would move enough for that to be a problem. I have seen furniture doors and bed rails tear a frame apart before but that is much larger parts so the movement is greater. Good to know thank you for clarifying. Sam
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Mark, Nigel, I don't understand what the saw cuts you two are discussing, it sounds like your talking about cutting through the frames? What am I missing? Sam
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