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Retired guy

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Everything posted by Retired guy

  1. Hi Dave sorry for my late reply to your questions, The drawings are not supplied by Caldercraft, Bugler drawings and his book I won on ebay back in 2004 and John McKay drawings I bought from John this February. Here is the side view looking head on to give you this perspective. Regards Richard
  2. Hi Dave, regarding your question "Are the Gun barrels to sit centrally within the gun ports when models are presented" I think you might have to find cross section drawing of your ship you are building, because I am building the HMS Victory by Caldercraft and in the instructions it says to put gun barrels in the center of gun port, but looking at cross section drawings of the Victory, by Bugler and John Mckay you will see they are not in the middle. This is how my model will be shown I am not an expert on this subject so I could be wrong. Regards Richard
  3. Beautiful, brilliant, fantastic Keith, I could go on and on, a big thanks for showing how you made all your parts they are just outstanding. Will look forward to your next endeavor. Regards Richard
  4. Sign of old age 😆 should have said copper thanks Wefalck. Regards Richard
  5. Forgot I have .010" brass as well, at 1/64 it would be just over 5/8 dia, if I needed anything smaller I would just use some brass wire from a very small electrical cable. Regards Richard
  6. Hi Harshil, catching up with your brilliant build, great to see you are doing a bit of scratch work, I find the small details always brings out the model 👍 Regards Richard
  7. Hi Dave, I make all my split rings, eye bolts from brass, have a wide thickness ranging from .011" all the way up to .062" , bought the smaller lot from Clover House. These are the tools I use Using .014" brass wire (1/72 scale ) to make a 3 1/2" x 2 1/2" ring in full size Frist measure the round nose pliers to find 1mm then bend Then cut the straight part using the flat side of the cutter Use the round pliers again to make it round and just go over a bit Then use the flat pliers to hold ring and use the flat side of the cutter to cut right next to the cut you had done Once cut use the flat nose pliers and to flatten For the eye bolt you bend the ring instead of cutting These don't take long at all and they are ready to solder or what ever. Hope this helps. Regards Richard
  8. Yes she did have davits, would they have removed for races, I am sure they would have. These Davits I made for my build Another picture of the chain Regards Richard
  9. Regarding saying that the chain plates don't go down the side of the hull, they do but they are flush with the hull (found this out by a good person on this site) see picture below you can see them quite clearly. Regards Richard
  10. Looking on the web found this picture, which shows the chain you are asking about, I took this picture and printed it down to the dimension of the Bluenose I am building which is Model Shipways #2130 scale 3/16"= 1'-0" (1:64) I took the dimension of just the bowsprit sticking out of the boat, and it was around 83mm. Using some chain I bought from Clover House I think the chain to use is 20.5 links per inch Hope this helps Regards Richard
  11. Hi Mr Von regarding what to use to clean brass before you blacken, look on the back of bottle there it tells you what you can use either, degreaser or denatured alcohol. I have had great success with Isopropyl Alcohol 99%, I put some in a small ice cream cup (you can use anything) just enough so that it covers what you are going to blacken. I keep the parts in the alcohol for a couple of minutes, then take out and put them on a clean dry paper towel, (I use blue workshop paper towel) dry pieces then I put them on a piece of small hard plastic sheet. Using a cotton bud I dip that into the Casey Brass Black bottle and cover all piece I want to blacken. I leave this for 1 minute in the solution, from there I put them in a cup of water, again I leave around a minute. Then they go back on the paper towel and I dry them off after this I use clean small cotton buds to polish each piece. Doing it this way I have never had flaking, here are some samples. Hope this helps. Regards Richard
  12. Three cheers for the admiral, the net fits like a glove very well done to the both of you. Regards Richard
  13. Just one outstanding model Keith just love all the detail you have put into her. Hope you have a great Christmas and New year Regards Richard
  14. Very nice to see an update Michael, all this rework is looking excellent and going to fantastic once completed. Got to get some of those micro shapers do have a lot of moldings to do. Merry Christmas and have a great new year Regards Richard
  15. Isn't it a brilliant feeling when you have worked out how you where going to make, then make said item and then install onto the build, and what you have done looks absolutely perfect and all looks to scale Keith. Regards Richard
  16. Hi Dave nice to see you back on the Bluenose, Tricky little parts aren't they, I still got to make a load of shackles for mine. Regards Richard
  17. Hi Tim your Bluenose is coming along brilliantly, but I have one comment, your last picture looks as if the back end of the stern block is not faired totally to the bulkheads Here is a picture to what I mean, hope I am wrong. If this is the case your planking will not sit right. Regards Richard
  18. She does cross stitching and embroidery, sometimes paints etc etc she likes to watch the hockey as well. Hi Gary just very small updates but hope to have some parts painted and installed in the next update, love the shop as well do use it every day did put a fridge in it so that I could store CA glue, this keeps it from going hard, cot for the wife 😳😳😂🤣 Regards Richard
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