realworkingsailor
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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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Are the pillars etch, or wood? If they're wood, I'd say leave 'em as they are... Andy -
If I was to do it again, I think I would plank the deck after gluing in place. I found that as I planked, the false deck took a concave curve. When first fit, this resulted in a ridge running down the centreline. It too a lot of clamping to knock that down, and in some hidden places, I've got a small gap where things didn't close up quite right. The only expediency that I could see from planking first then installing, you can plank right over any openings, turn the thing over and cut them out from underneath. Andy
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Actually... If you don't mind me bringing up the copper plate subject one more time... A small suggestion... For those of us who are half cracked enough to add plates to the leading edge of the stem, or the like, would it be possible to supply a small quantity of plates that are symmetrical, as opposed to the directional left/right plates on offer? Andy
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I'm with Mark, here, on that one! Great job on that little nutshell of a model.... One question though.... How many more of them do you have to do? Andy
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And with that.... Darwin rolled over in his grave.......
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Starting to turn into a right proper rat's nest... I hear Augie's spiders have been freed up... May want to import a few... Rumour has it they make the work go faster somehow... Andy
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I bit of blind bias, going by what I've seen around here, I find the Amati/Victory Models plates very well done. Doing the "nails" like they have, avoids the pimply appearance that the CC plates have. Andy
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Flickering lights
realworkingsailor replied to AntonyUK's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Bruce, I'm with you on the model railroad angle.... Although I'd go a step further and put in a DCC function only decoder. These are specially for lighting effects in rolling stock. The bottom line, you could have multiple LEDs flickering at different rates (steam loco "fire-box" flicker option). With careful wiring you can have also multiple ships operating off the same base station. I'd only choose to go this way because I'm no ESP (electrical smarty pants).... Andy -
Great looking lighting, and excellent work on the stern. Good to know you also participate in that great tradition of going north to feed mosquitos. Where abouts do you call paradise? We're at the western edge of the Kawarthas, just off of hwy 35. Andy
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I think anyone building this kit would have to follow Mike Mott's lead, and build a workshop large enough around the ship..... Andy
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To echo everyone else, very nicely done. I take it you are leaving all your guns brass, and not painted or blackened? Andy
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Well... I guess with all that I eat my words... Regardless, the carronades look great. Andy
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Agreed... The rest should be a piece of cake, the worst is over... Hopefully you land a big one.....(not a swamp donkey )
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Very interesting... Did not know the company still exists. Based on your letter I'm suddenly thinking manganese-bronze as the metal... It has that silvery grey colour seen in your photo. Used nowadays for ship's propellors.... Although I don't know when it was first produced... Andy
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Sorry to say (and this is only my opinion, not necessarily fact), but to me that jack screw looks more like raw steel, than brass or bronze. In any case, regular oiling and working would have kept the metal from corroding. I'm still interested in what you find out, though. There's also a chance that in the name of preservation, some things may have been replaced. Andy
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Yup, I still have my other boat to enjoy Looking at Mike Mott's thread, I'm not the only one taking time away for 1:1 (or 1:2 or whatever) projects.. Aldo, thank you very much. Have you been able to manage any hobby time lately? Andy
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Complain.... No... Just trying to justify my lack of build progress.... As for you-know-who and his picture fetish.... He's just going to have to be patient.... Andy
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I think in that context, it may refer to the metal being unpainted and kept free from rust, rather than being brass. Mixed metals in a salt water environment results in one corroding at a rapid rate. Andy
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Well... What can I say... The weather is not conducive to ship modelling... Or doing much else beyond lounging in the lake... At the same time there has been an utter paucity of wind... So my sail boat remains tied up to the dock.... But it's not all fun and waiting games.. Tore down the old "boat house" now we have to clean up the mess and build a new one.... A little sturdier than the rotten old log lean-to we pulled down today. Andy
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I can just hear the rumble of that V8.... burbling exhaust just under the waterline at idle.... calling to you....
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If Tenax is giving you issues, try Ambroid ProWeld. Slightly different solvent, not quite as volatile as Tenax. To be honest it sounds like you have other problems than your glue. If you'd used too much, the pieces would have turned into a gooey mess... Not fallen apart. I agree with Popeye, you may have an issue with the styrene itself breaking down (rare... But it can happen) Andy
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You have my utmost sympathies in your time of Murphy-induced misfortune.... But I have to be honest... The longer you keep him busy at your place.... The longer the rest of us have breathing room against our own personal misfortunes (Provided, of course, he keeps his attentions squarely on your fleet of motor vehicles..... And not your ships... ) Andy
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Way to go Augie! Enjoy the fishing, hope it doesn't rain on you too much.... Unless it helps make the fish hungry.. Andy
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Looking very nice. Andy
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